CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
90 Blazer...4 or 6" lift with 35s?
- Thread starter ibtravis
- Start date
6 will fit them fine.
4 you would have to trim a little bit
4 you would have to trim a little bit
Chrisblazzer89
1/2 ton status
I run 38.5 TSL super swampers with only 4" of lift and I drive it everyday.
4" & 35's is the way to go.
badmix
1/2 ton status
4" , I think with 6" you get into driveshaft and steering geometry and possibly have to extend brake lines.
I had a four inch lift with 35s and i did not have to trim at all and i did have to lengthen my rear driveshaft and brake lines in front so that all but 6inch with 35s might make the tires look to small maybe go to 36s or 37s with the 6inch lift would look hot!
Heres pics of my Blazer on 4" (roughly) and 35's at ~50% wear
First pic is 1ton rear, 1/2 ton front.... slight rake, hard to see in that pic
Second pic is 1 tons... so its up about 3/4" over the half tons, and sitting about 1/4" low in the rear
First pic is 1ton rear, 1/2 ton front.... slight rake, hard to see in that pic
Second pic is 1 tons... so its up about 3/4" over the half tons, and sitting about 1/4" low in the rear
I used 4" plus zeros giving around 5 or so inches but I had to trim. I was trying to keep COG as low as possible.
One thing you might want to do after the lift is move the spacers on the t-case brace from the bottom to in between the frame and brace. It will help reduce the angle on your drive line. Before I did this, I was going through rear U joints every 3-4 years when it was my DD. I've had no u joint problems since then.
roadnotca
3/4 ton status
It also depends on how wide the front tires are. A parking lot flex may not show the rub.
I did this once, and I cased it on a rock and tore those suckers right through the frame. If you do use this method, you should weld in some steel to make it more solid.Tabb89k5 said:
DONT DO THAT! as mentioned, you will break the frame as they pull through!Tabb89k5 said:
Correct method is to get a full sized block to fill the gap... a solid piece of 1 x 2 in steel or aluminum will do it prefectly, and only run about 5-10 bucks with new bolts
IE: make one of these: http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/10702.html
Gaffed
1/2 ton status
Would dropping the transfer case on a K5 with less than 4" of lift benefit anything? Mine is stock right now but might go up 4" this summer.
No need to do it until you lift it. Messing with driveline angles before the lift = inviting trouble
hunterguy86
1/2 ton status
I run 6 in and 35's. I have dropped the tcase as pictured above and got my rear driveshaft lengthend. Front is fine.
