'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

[cliles]

On you thinking the plates aren't cast iron, what are thinking are you thinking they might be?

Not a clue, I know the typical HF plates are cast iron and you can tell by its somewhat porous appearance. However, these are a completely different shape and size and appear to have subtle "grooves" on the sides from precision torch or water jet cutting.

I was just going to chunk them if they are casts bc of the horrific failures I have seen, I got enough problems with cutting discs. But if they are mild steel, then I could probably find a use for them. Just don't know if there is an easy way to tell or not.

 

[DEMON44]

You shouldn't be grinding with a cutting disk anyways. That's a proven method to blow one up.

 

[cliles]

You shouldn't be grinding with a cutting disk anyways. That's a proven method to blow one up.

I know, in this scenario it was the tool on the table and I was using it to remove a slight burr from tubing cut on a bandsaw.

 

[DEMON44]

Hindsight being 20/20 right. Never side load a cutting disk. Ever.

 

[ryoken]

being in the market for a new one, what press is that?

 

[cliles]

being in the market for a new one, what press is that?

HF 50 ton. It is the same thing as NT's big red, and various others. I wanna say it is a little over $500 after your coupon, comes more or less fully assembled.

Thought I had this brake worked out, but looks like square tubing isn't going to be strong enough. Going to have to go back to the recycle yard and get some solid rod or square stock.

 

[swettysblazer]

PM Deuling to see what he did with his press, I forget what it was. But they made a brake for it and it works pretty well. I think they have the same press as well.

 

[ryoken]

thanks.. yeah, that was the one I was eyeballin... I have the 20 ton version down at work, so I'm not desperate for one.. just thinking about a monstrosity for here at the house...

a killer brake would be more of what I wanted it for here, as opposed to "regular" use...

 

[Deuling]

This one is all home brew....

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=293850&highlight=Home+brew+press

I spent $13 for some 7018 and that's all that's into it.



I made a press break for it out of angle iron and a big screw that goes into the ram.

My old boss does have the swag and he used a piece of solid instead of square and it works. His is setup under an ironworker.

 

[cliles]

Cut and turn stalled again, seems like the 10 degree shims weren't quite enough. Nobody sells 14's, and Kert can't justify buying the larger stock for a single order.

Even though I calculated 14 degrees of rotation, I am thinking I may need more looking at the 10's installed.

I am not positive bc I backed into the original pinion flange angle, but it seems like I am getting less than 10 degrees of rotation with a 10 degree shim (6.5) by my estimate. However, I cannot understand how that would be possible.

 

[cliles]

Also, looks like getting the 2" lift Springs was a bad idea, I am an easy 2" higher in the front now with a slight garage slope working against that.

Maybe once I get the rest of the body on the front and they break in, it will look better, but I will probably have to block the rear to compensate.

 

[cliles]

Working on getting something custom machined.

I also may try to by the scrap yard, find something in the 2-2.25 thick range, and maybe try to cut my own. I think I am going to shoot for the 20-22 degree range, such that I can still rotate when my front end drops.

 

[cliles]

Shim-Shammed

So, I could never get anybody interested in making my shims, decided to take this on myself (this was probably a month ago).

Devised a plan, cut the shim, within 0.025" of each other, drilled the hole perpendicular to the flat side instead of the hypotenuse. Doh!

 

[cliles]

Shim-Shammed2

Back at it again, cut new shims, drill the pin hole post cut, dicked up the center pin bolt coming in an out of the pack so many times. DOH!

Got a couple of new pins, got it installed, passenger side plate is pushed too far forward, and plate hits spring before rotating properly. DOH!

 

[cliles]

Shim-Shammed3

Decided to work the plate from up top, drill some holes in a failed shim, cut some washers, we have reasonable success after enlarging the holes in the plate to accommodate the angle in which the bolts must pass through it.

 

[cliles]

Cut and DOH!

Garage is sloping a little towards the door for drainage, I called this close enough, looks like I am 8.2 degrees positive on my unrotated knuckle and 7.2 negative on my partially rotated knuckle. Shooting for negative 8.

 

[cliles]

Cut and DOH!2

Drive shaft is in line with pinion flange, but DOH!. Can turn with one hand, but still has modest resistance when the double cardan joint is at maximum flex. This is probably tolerable if the suspension was at full droop instead of static ride height.

Owner of Tom Woods has been very helpful through this process and has offered a full refund on the shaft, and pointed me towards this site http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/bad_boy.htm . While being very clear that he did not endorse it.

I am not sure what else I can do other than unclock the tcase, which I would consider had I not already started rotating one of my knuckles.

I do not know how much on road 4x4 I will be doing, but really wanted the option for the once in 5 years snow storms we get in DFW.

This is what the manufacture has to say. " A non-daily drive CV is saving the day, everyday, for the hi-riders and those that put large/long engines in little jeeps yielding one ugly angle. Well fear not the builder of extreme drive shaft is here.

This CV is a competition CV for front drive shaft for super duty fords, blazers, dodges, rock crawling buggies, shorty's for jeep rear, or for any one not able to connect the transfer case to the axle. They are balance like any other drive shaft because of our find tuning of the CV after it gets here.

This CV will operate at a continuous angle of 45 degrees maximum and droops to 80 degrees for the wheel droop.

This CV 7” diameter fits most applications and, if it doesn’t, then there is the BAD BOY JUNIOR, which is a 5.25 inches diameter CV. It can be operated at 40 degrees maximum and droops to 60 degree. This CV is more expensive to make but provides the customer another option where nothing else will do."

 

[y5mgisi]

This is driving me up the wall. I can only imagine how you must feel. I feel like i, very very long ago, would have just done a 4l80e, with a doubler, and a 6" lift. bada bing bada boom, your wheelin. But i know how it goes to be on a certain set of tracks and not want to jump off them.

 

[cliles]

Well poop on a stick, I forgot about the doubler track. Looking back, would have been better. Still more expensive, but less time.

Let's think about this some more, and stop me where I am wrong, b/c it has been what feels like over a year since I thought about this.

Doubler route.

1. I'd have to shell out somewhere upward of a grand to get one. -$1,250

2. I would have to shorten/lengthen my rear/front driveshafts respectively (which may be a wash for having to purchase a more expensive badboy shaft). Cash neutral

3. Modify my homemade crossmember, may not be too difficult, but definitely going to add several working days to the project (especially since I am going to have to screw with the cable shifter again). Cash neutral/negligible, time sucking

4. I would probably still use my clocking ring on the back of the doubler, wouldnt get as much clearance, but should have acceptable driveshaft angles. Not sure if I would have to rotate the axle still (which if I did, work neutral since I already have to finish that part up, although it would be easier to move the turned one back, then turn and align both). I would have to drill a new drain plug, or just buy another diff cover. -$75

Does that sound about right for what is in the process?

As far as the results, I would be trading lets say $1,500 a bunch of time for a doubler (which I dont really need, but most definately wouldnt hurt), and the ability to drive 20-30 MPH in 4 high?

 

[cliles]

Doubler Concept

I also remember thinking (whether justified or not) that adding a doubler might send my rear driveshaft angle into territory that was not conducive for highway speeds (which is a must for me).