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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

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I'm not really too sure on that perhaps you could mimic what it would be like to have it doubled by mocking the t case to where it would land under the truck? The big thing on the rear is a few things. 1) you don't have to worry about anything other than pinion angle so you can just rotate it until your happy and weld the purches on. 2) is that because the pinion is centered under the truck, the drive shaft has less up and down travel to be concerned about. So provided that you can get an acceptable angle, it's easier to get a shaft that will work in the back. Again, if it were me, I would bet on the 4l80e,with doubler, and plan on zero rates to move my rear axle back 1.5",and front axle fforward 1.5". Just seems like instant winnings to me. But I have never tried. Just seen what others experience.
 
How much lift are you running or planning to run? I doubt a doubler would cause rear driveshaft issues.
 
It is about 6" of lift. 2" springs with a A-bomb center up front, ORD shackle flip in the rear.

As far as rear driveshaft angle, I am only concerned b/c I want to be able to go fast (80-90 MPH if I want if I am rushing to make happy hour), and have the steering, tires, etc be the limiting factor. That is one of the reason's I ditched the biased plys immediately. You could never get them balanced, and the ride was terrible.
 
What is the main benefit of moving your axles and lengthening your wheelbase?

I am not sure if I can couple the zero rates with the shims.
 
In this case, Just makes the drivelines longer and easier to work with /get better angles. I suppose a side benefit would be an increase in stability.
 
Mostly, I just don't understand why your setup is so tough to get dialed in. With all the dudes around here running 6-10" lift with flexy suspension and Dana 60s, it would seem it would be pretty easy to get something worked out.
 
That is what I have been saying. My initial and still current conclusion is that I simply clocked the tcase one tick too many.

In my defense, one tick up seemed hardly worth doing, minimal clearance for the PITA. So I went one more to be flat, and assumed it was SAP.
 
Looking back through your pics, I also feel that part of your problem is how high theengine is mounted. I tthink it's putting a lot of angle on your front cover while static. I wanna say that stock the front output flange at the trade had like 4 degrees of top backward tilt. And you look to have a good deal more than that. Maybe worth considering dropping the motor down some?
 
I ran stock 52s with a zero rate and a 6 degree shim on the front of my blazer with the tcase clocked flat. I had to get a high-angle cv shaft with a superflex joint at the axle and a 11" slip. I only ran it on the road a couple times with the front shaft spinning (forgot to unlock the hubs) but it did alright. Got a little funky vibes, but nothing terrible. My guess is that it was from the superflex joint, but don't know for sure. Never had an issue with it offroad.
 
Thats great news, sounds like you have almost the exact setup (even without a cut and turn), what brand shaft are you using?
 
It was a Tom Woods. Just 1310 joints. If I remember correctly, I just called them and told them the angles I had and that's what they recommended. They told me that I wouldn't run down the road great, but I was okay with that.

If you're just wanting to run it down the road on few and far between occasions, I think you should be fine with that kind of shaft.
 
Actually, now that I think about it, I ran down the road with the hubs locked a fair bit. I was having weird noise from the tcase, but I think that was because of the rear shaft being too short. Never found out for sure, though, cause I sold it.


I found a pic:

7720522564_91becae607_b.jpg
 
cliles said:
Yeah the ORD mounts don't give you any room to move up or down.
Click to expand...

I know at least one guy on here had to modify his ord mounts to get the engine to sit lower. Looking at stans output flange, his looks a lot closer to vertical than yours does. I'm just thinking it will help relieve the angle at the cv for the front. Might not be the best/only solution, but it's something to keep in mind.
 
y5mgisi said:
Looking at stans output flange, his looks a lot closer to vertical than yours does. I'm just thinking it will help relieve the angle at the cv for the front. Might not be the best/only solution, but it's something to keep in mind.
Click to expand...

That reminds me, I pushed up the trans mount some when I made that crossmember. I think the tcase ouput flange was right at or close to 0 degrees.
 
Agreed, the 5.5 degrees or so backward tilt is definitely killing me.

I will look today for ways to remedy, but pushing the Tcase up and rotating forward is going to hurt my rear angle. As with most things, it is a balancing act.
 
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