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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
For ease and accuracy, I would rig up a way to use a come along type device and have the axle anchored and the pull point anchored and use the come along to rotate the c.
 
Something somewhat similar in nature to this.

SAS+Rear+Hanger+build+and+install+008.jpg
 
That is great advice. That will make the adjustment increments smaller and more precise, but doesn't solve how to get the final accuracy with the tremendous heat on the C's. I was thinking of some way to place a stop or detent. Might just have to get it out and on the table before it will come to me.
 
I feel like you could do something similar to how they degree a cam. You know with that big degree wheel and a little wire pointer.
 
When I rotated my inner Cs we used a huge press and pressed them off (took 40 - 60 tons), then deburred them and I was able to somewhat easily hit them back on with a wooden block and a sledge to the exact dimension I wanted without rotating. The problem is the Cs gall on the tube once you move them after they are factory welded, and you are fighting that the whole time. Press them off if you can, debur them, and then you can get them where you want without heat before you weld them on again.
 
folkenheath said:
When I rotated my inner Cs we used a huge press and pressed them off (took 40 - 60 tons), then deburred them and I was able to somewhat easily hit them back on with a wooden block and a sledge to the exact dimension I wanted without rotating. The problem is the Cs gall on the tube once you move them after they are factory welded, and you are fighting that the whole time. Press them off if you can, debur them, and then you can get them where you want without heat before you weld them on again.
Click to expand...

There is a thought there. I did buy that big press in case I had to press the C's off. I'll look into that method as well.

Any concerns that the weld alone (less the tight factory tolerance) may not be strong enough?

Here is how someone else used a press.

335185d1194565638-inner-60-cs-made-easy-housingpress1.jpg
 
Press is moved out of the corner, axle is off. We will see what the kiddo will let me do tomorrow.
 
Not quite as far as I would have liked. Got the crane moved and the brake off the press, but had to make a trip to the store for more hydraulic fluid.

Going to have to lift the press with some cinder blocks or something to allow enough height for axle to be suspended.

Will have to rig up some way to keep the axle from falling after the knuckle comes off.

Next boy will be here any day, should put a better dent in it on maternity leave.
 
I'll post more tomorrow, but I got knuckle off in less than 5 secs. It was really anticlimactic. I think my pressure gauge may be broken bc the press never recorded any resistance.

Going to deburr (it is pretty damn clean on both sides) and mock everything up with the driver side C before I mess with the currently untouched passenger side.
 
Good to hear, I think you'll find its much easier to get the proper angle now before you weld it back up.
 
On the old site you could view post 100 per page. Anyone know how to adjust the settings on the new site?
 
Got the drive side knuckle (the one I heated and rotated) on by hand with very little resistance. Almost too little. The passenger side (the one I never messed with) is a different story. I have been hitting it with a flap wheel, and cannot beat it back on. I am nervous to being too aggressive with the cleanup, but also dont want to seat it back on and not be able to adjust.

Probably flap wheel one more time, then try to use the press to put it back on.

Is using any grease or lubricant a bad idea?

I read on another thread that welding the outside of the C was a no no bc it put the C in tension. There are a lot of experts out there and a lot of people who talk out of their hi-knee. The concept is not counter-intuitive, but still seems a little suspect to me.
 
Once I cleaned the burrs off (did not change the diameters) and we measured the tube and the C, it wasn't the super tight factory press fit I expected, instead, it was more of a near zero clearance slip fit. It sitll required a little massaging with a rubber mallet to get it where I wanted, but even then its not like the C can move withotu moving the tube. I welded both the main inside fillet on the od of the tube and the inner surface of the C, and I welded the outside as well, between the C and the knuckle. That is a much smaller weld, kind of in the bevel between the C and the end of the tube. You can't put too much weld in there as it could rub on the axle shaft behind the u-joint yoke.

You could use lube, but if you do it may contaminate the weld, so I would try not to. It may be hard to get out, and even if you get it out, the heat from the weld can push more lube out and ruin the weld joint. I would try to keep it clean.

For axle stuff you do have to worry about warpage, but since you are welding a full cirlce that should be evenly heated all the way around, it shouldn't warp if done right. Now, if you are welding an axle bracket on that is only half the tube or something, then I never weld more than 2" at a time, and let it cool in between to prevent warping. Seems to help a lot.

Since then I've beat the crap out of the truck and bent the frame, but the axle didn't bend. Take that for what it's worth.
 
do you have any pictures of the welds? I took a look at your build thread but the vast majority of images were just labels
 
not sure if it is the new site or what. I tried two different computers and my phone with the same results
 
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