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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

I had a lot of the first images in albums, and those albums were deleted with the new site. Once the albums were full I started hosting them. So the first several posts are emtpy links now and I haven't had enough time to fix them. I did a quick check and I couldn't find any decent pictures of those welds, sorry.

I'll see if I can turn the wheel and get any decent picture of that area soon.
 
Baby came last night, I should be able to grab enough hours next week to get the axle finished up.
 
Truck looks awesome!! And congrats on the kid!!
 
Got the knuckles back on, axle back in, and tacked them in place at what I hope is +8. The hope part being that it is really difficult get an exact dip with an angle finder due to the lack of straight lines to align the tool with. Rotate one side of the finder towards or away from the leaf springs a fraction of inch, and you can easily get 0.5 degree difference in your reading. I tried several techniques, with the kingpin, without, with a square, etc. They all seemed to have one flaw or another, ended up just using the finder on top of the knuckle, aligning a corner with a "straight" spot, and eyeballing several times how orthogonal it was to the axle tube.

The frac crew I use have a couple of professional welders on staff. I am going to drop the axle by there when I got to the field next week. I don't feel like risking 80 MPH down the highway on my welding. Especially b/c the knuckle I heated can easily be turned by hand. It was a beating to set b/c how easily you could rotate past the desired caster angle. The untouched knuckle took quite a bit of flap disc to get a snug but manageable fit.

I'll start on de-clocking the Tcase and modifying the crossmember next.
 
So I got the knuckles welded on a while back ago, when I remeasured, I was dead on +8 degrees for the passenger side, but somewhere between +9.25-9.5 on the driver side. I dont know how it got that off. Must have rotated on the way to the welder or something.

So, it will be a real SOB to fix, anybody have any idea of how big of an issue this is going to be?
 
Thats a very good question, theoretically both knuckles have caster to recenter themselves, but you will have a little more contact on the inside of the outside tire turning right than left. If you know everything is welded in strong and your steering is bind free with your tie rod and drag link, etc, I would run it and see how it handles. Start out slow and work your way up, it might work just fine and not be worth messing with, because when the steering is straight forward both wheels should still be correct on the camber going down the road. My guess is it will work just fine, because both of those caster numbers are acceptable numbers, you just happen to have both at the same time.
 
I was told once you wont notice a 1 degree caster difference any more and you "might" feel it.. Id run it..
 
Life has been a whirlwind. Spent he first part of 16 working on my own start up and having money be too tight for the blazer. Now I have merged with another started, closed to flush, but work so much I have no time to finish up between job/kids. Also, I had to relocate to Midland. Going to just try to run the axle as is for now, find a shop to put the finishing touches on getting it up and going so I can get it out of the garage and get our house sold.
 
if it's pulls left you'll know why.

Alot of times cars are set up with my right so over a lengthy distance they will drift right, away from head on traffic. If someone fell asleep for instance.

That's atleast what I was told moons ago

Disregard the last part, I can't read
 
Sad day, but its for the best. I cannot work on a truck that is 300 miles away, and it will be a almost full a year before I get my new shop built.

Its off to the shop for Betty.

Betty Going to the Shop.jpg
 
I have a rebuilt NP241 for sale for $200. Comes with assorted internals that were done away with during a SYE install

Front leaf springs for 4" lift with zero rates for $50

A front driveshaft for $35

For free, has to be picked up either friday or saturday 3/9 or 3/10/17
Blazer console
gauge bezel
rear drive shaft
tcase skid plate
dana 60 front axle shafts
Several u joints, straps, bolts, etc. I have gone to all flanges.
A receiver hitch that was modified to fit the front of the blazer frame.

2017-03-05 16.53.16.jpg

2017-03-05 16.53.10.jpg
 
Since I am spending so much money on the truck at this point, I decided to fix the body up and have it painted. I thought fiberglass fenders might be look better and be easier then cut sheet metal. The shop thinks it is a wash on installing the fenders over repairing the sheet metal.

Anyone have any reasons not to go fiberglass? I do not think this rig will be seeing any trail time more severe then driving through pastures at this point.

Hannemann Front Fenders

HF5006, he suggested doing the model without the core supports because this model fender has a lot of metal innards that would have to be modified.


http://www.hannemannfiberglass.com/custom.asp?id=457567&page=110

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Mcneil Racing Rear Bedsides

https://www.mcneilracinginc.com/pro...-road-fiberglass-bedsides?variant=18357682695

I like the Hannemann front fenders over the Mcneil because they keep a more stock look, and I do not have to convert to a late model grille.

H71-PZAm8yE3CQf75aOsMDqQnUWG9hL9MgnuUS2D6VaF8DlbBuFKGlK3dqe6JsA9pILsXiCtXTYkjuXn7hQTuKIzBLczD7jX7Y722v5ElJZRbxoqAUDhzGTuExOSQ3cUZeJstwBiv7x1k1udVWpzQ8OdNqQB=s0-d-e1-ft
 
yes they require an appreciable amount of trimming as it currently sits.
 
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