I feel it would be the ideal location as its such a waste of space to have nothing in them lol... No need for a system in my blazer, i like the sound of the motor more 
CK5
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91 K5 interior subwoofer enclosure - can I cut through the interior side sheetmetal?
- Thread starter Jessie James
- Start date
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Well, I am thinking I should put a gun rack in there while I'm at it ... haha.
Anyway, I'm an old man now (relatively). I've heard engines for 25+ years and I'm tired of it. Now I want to hear my music. I'm thinking of Dynamating the whole thing too.
Anyway, I'm an old man now (relatively). I've heard engines for 25+ years and I'm tired of it. Now I want to hear my music. I'm thinking of Dynamating the whole thing too.
I'm planning on running some Class D amps, and based on testing they are actually very accurate for average use, especially in a noisy ol' truck.
I've ordered them already.
You will run into problem when using it as a mid and tweet amp. Class D amps kinda work like a switching power supply. They then filter out the high frequency switching before they send the signal out. This can make your mids and high sound muddled. That is why they are primarily used as sub amps. Subs dont play "highs" and muddled sound is less noticable for sub frequencies.
There is always a trade off. You are trading extremely high efficiency for lack of overall sound quality. I love class A amps and had a pair of soundstream 10.2 and Picasso amps when I was younger. Right around 1400 watts but rated at 150w. They were cheater amps so you could compete in low power classes.
Anyway I enjoy my hearing to much now and would do a class D subwoofer amp and a class AB mid, highs amp no problem now.
I don't see how a board conducts heat better than carpet. Mounting it directly to the sheet metal could help, but usually the bottom of an amp is just structural and the sides and top are the heatsink. Under the seat has to get more airflow than behind a side panel. The real question is whether or not your amp will have a problem back there under your usage conditions. Obviously enclosed amps without ventilation isn't something you would do for SPL competitions, but if your equipment works fine under the conditions you give it - it's a great space-saving and clean-up solution.
True. But on the other hand, if your music source will be an iPod filled with 128kbps mp3s you may not notice the difference
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
In my experience the speakers make all the difference. FWIW, here is the review for the amp I purchased:
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/1180-pioneer-gm-d9500f-amplifier?start=1
Based on the charts I think it's safe to say it'll be just fine. I also picked up the matching 1200w amp for my subs. It was either that or the Alpine MRP-F300 and a matching mono sub.
The small form factor is one of the most appealing features to me.
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/1180-pioneer-gm-d9500f-amplifier?start=1
Based on the charts I think it's safe to say it'll be just fine. I also picked up the matching 1200w amp for my subs. It was either that or the Alpine MRP-F300 and a matching mono sub.
The small form factor is one of the most appealing features to me.
Sound is subjective. Best advice is to just try out what you intend to buy and then just buy what sounds good to you and dont worry about the rest.
Only thing I would worry about is sticking anything but Class D amps behind enclosed panels. Other then that buy what works for you.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Weird, I'm using Class D amps for the compete system, mids, highs and a seperate one for subs. Class D amps are just more energy efficient at what they pull and use as far as I was told and know, and the system in my Burb is far from quiet.
kauzenkaos
1/2 ton status
Here's a picture of the side with a jl and a 3.5 cap underneath
Some people don't have sensitive ear and couldn't pick out muddled sound if you paid them to. Kinda like the MP3 example above, can you tell the difference between an MP3 and a CD? I can.
Class D amps are sampling the input and then chopping the output. I don't know how best to explain it so you understand. The output that goes to your speakers is actually turned on and off at about 120 thousand times a second. Kinda like you dont see your light bulbs flash at 60 times a second inside your house. This is then later filtered out right before it goes to your speakers. You end up missing a very small piece of the signal. High frequencies suffer the most because they are not sampled as much as low frequencies. This is why it has primarily been a subwoofer amp. A normal amp the output signal tracks the input signal just amplified no loss of signal.
But like I said sound is subjective just buy what sounds good to you and be happy with it. You can spend endless amounts of money on audio gear.
blazin' j
1/2 ton status
Nice set up
kauzenkaos
1/2 ton status
Thanks. Can't find the pic but but I got a 1000 watt soundstream to fit under the other side. Hardest part was running the power cable from one side to the other. I ordered 2 gauge power cable and ended up with 1-0 gauge.
blazin' j
1/2 ton status
I jus pulled my old panels out yesterday & am gonna trace em on sum treated particle board or similar material this week...My truck tends to get muddy on the inside so I'm gonna have to make sure I use marine grade stuff n seal it pretty good...
My fiberglass body came with fiberglass side panels (which I covered in diamondplate), but I stuffed my amps, one in each side, and an inverter charger in the side of mine. No heat issues that I know of. The inverter has a fan that kicks on at some point. I know I had it turned on during testing when I ran a drill off it for 10 minutes straight. But it hasn't come on, that I've noticed during "regular" use (which has been addmitingly very light thus far). But you can fit alot in those side panels,no problem.
I might imagine some amps have more heat issues than others.
I might imagine some amps have more heat issues than others.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
Ok, so what happens if I cut through the inner bed wall and into the area behind the exterior side panels? Anything bad?
I was looking at things this weekend and realize I will not have enough space to mount my subwoofer enclosure behind the stock panels and also be able to mount my mid-range speakers in the same place.
What I want to do is make a 0.5 cu ft enclosure for the 8" subs and mount them inside the side panels, where the side ash trays are. However, the measurements are 12" x 19" x 3.5" which isn't nearly enough space. If I make the enclosure go up and over the wheel well it is about the right space, but then I have no place to mount my midrange speakers.
I then realized that the truck has two walls - the inner wall which is what we are seeing in the photos above, and the outer sheet metal which is the exterior side panel. If I cut a hole through the inner wall I could have enough space for my subwoofer enclosure.
I want to do this on the sides of the rear passenger seat, just behind the rear main roof pillar.
Are there any problems with that? Structural issues?
I was looking at things this weekend and realize I will not have enough space to mount my subwoofer enclosure behind the stock panels and also be able to mount my mid-range speakers in the same place.
What I want to do is make a 0.5 cu ft enclosure for the 8" subs and mount them inside the side panels, where the side ash trays are. However, the measurements are 12" x 19" x 3.5" which isn't nearly enough space. If I make the enclosure go up and over the wheel well it is about the right space, but then I have no place to mount my midrange speakers.
I then realized that the truck has two walls - the inner wall which is what we are seeing in the photos above, and the outer sheet metal which is the exterior side panel. If I cut a hole through the inner wall I could have enough space for my subwoofer enclosure.
I want to do this on the sides of the rear passenger seat, just behind the rear main roof pillar.
Are there any problems with that? Structural issues?
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
For example, in this photo:
I want to mount my 8" subs about middle of that area, and the 6.5" speakers and tweets around there as well. As you can see, this 6x9 speaker has a much smaller box and it sticks out, and he has a CUCV without side panels too ... I want all my stuff to fit in and behind the side panel.
Edit - so what I would do would be to - in this example - cut a rectangular hole the size as the 6x9 box directly behind where the box is mounted now and then push the 6x9 box into the hole, and then mount it with "L" brackets. Now the box would be flush (or at least recessed) into the side panel area. In my case, I would then put the side panel back on and the box will be hidden from view. Finally, I would mount the 8" grill cover to the side panels.
I want to mount my 8" subs about middle of that area, and the 6.5" speakers and tweets around there as well. As you can see, this 6x9 speaker has a much smaller box and it sticks out, and he has a CUCV without side panels too ... I want all my stuff to fit in and behind the side panel.
Edit - so what I would do would be to - in this example - cut a rectangular hole the size as the 6x9 box directly behind where the box is mounted now and then push the 6x9 box into the hole, and then mount it with "L" brackets. Now the box would be flush (or at least recessed) into the side panel area. In my case, I would then put the side panel back on and the box will be hidden from view. Finally, I would mount the 8" grill cover to the side panels.
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I had 6x9s mounted in a hole i cut in the panels. Now that i took the panels out i made speaker boxes like that one, and just set them sideways behind the front seats. Fit nice in between the front seats and the ledge, and people dont have any problems sitting back there. It was quick, easy, looks fine, and i didnt cut sheet metal. Win.
Jessie James
1/2 ton status
That's a lot different. Do you know what is behind the sheet metal in the rear panel areas? Anything? Do I risk my truck crumpling on the outside if I cut through the inside metal?
Go look under your fender. You can stick your whole arm up there. Id say there is a good 3 or more inches between the 2 panels. I doubt cutting into it will cause that much of a problem. I would go as far back from the b pillar as possible to leave as much metal as you can next to it. If its not a crazy offroad rig i dont think it would cause a big problem. If you flex your rig alot it may, but im not sure. I would just make some plywood boxes that fit in there and stick out a few inches, but thats just me.
And just remember, a speaker is a big maginet, so any type of iron in dirt that gets up in there is going to stick to the speakers, and they will be exposed to water... Just sayin.
