14BFF disc swap!
First time I have done this swap. I read quite a bit before starting, but it's honestly straight forward as can be. In fact, its no tougher than changing out drums. First of all, if you plan to run aluminum wheels, buy some longer lug studs!!! You'll need 3.5" long, 9/16-18 thread with a 0.622" knurl.
You'll need:
(2) 73-87 1/2 or 3/4 ton calipers
(2) 73-87 3/4 ton rotors
(1 pr) of disc brake brackets
(1) 28" -3 or -4 braided brake line
(1) 36" -3 or -4 braided brake line
(2) 7/16" thread to -3 or -4 thread adapters
(2) 1/8' pipe to -3 or -3 thread adapters
Anyway, back to the swap. Start by removing the axle shafts from the housing. You'll need a 3/4" socket. They may have rtv on them that makes them tougher to remove, don't bend the steel gasket, or it will possibly leak.
There is an outer locking nut behind the axle shaft:
There is a splined locking washer behind the first nut, and it wraps over the outer nut and locks it in place. You'll need a flat blade screwdriver to take it lose from the nut. Then use a punch and a hammer and tap the nut in the counter clockwise direction to remove it. Then you'll need the screwdriver to remove the locking washer behind the first nut. Behind the washer there's a nut identical to the first one. Use the hammer and punch again to remove it. There is one more keyed washer behind the last nut, you can carefully slide off the hub/drum assembly and remove it after the fact. And you're left with this:
Leaky seal has wept gear oil into the drum assembly, lucky we took it a part.
To remove the drum backing plate, remove the retaining spring on the bottom of the brake assembly down by the parking brake adjuster. Once that's off, remove the sprung cross bar near the top to access the upper to backing plate bolts. They are a 3/4" socket. After you remove the backing plate you're left with this:
Now its time to put it back together. I used RuffStuff 14BFF disc brackets hardware included:
I reused the original lock washers because the kit did not come with any, but here is the assembled product, the bracket should face out with the bent portion out. the placement of the caliper mount should mount the caliper at the 2 O'clock position.
Next you'll need to knock the wheel studs out of the original hub/drum assembly to ditch the drum. I just used a hammer and a brass punch. Then reassembled the hub/disc assembly in the reverse order with the nose of the hub facing out and the hat of the rotor facing down, like so:
Then slide them back on, there is a washer that sits in front of the bearing but behind the nut, you'll need to align the key on the washer so it will slide on.
Then reinstall the rearward nut, so its snug, but not tight and the hub spins freely. Then install the lock washer. Then the outer nut and get it tight on the lock washer. When its tight, bend in the closest finger to a slot in the nut to ensure it doesn't loosen.
Slide the axle shaft in and tighten it up,
Next mount your caliper and pads with the slider bolts.
Then your set to put on your brake lines and mount your tee fitting to the diff cover. If you use an 1/8" pipe thread to AN adapter, you'll need to drill and tap the Tee fitting to make it fit.
