94 6.5 TD Swap.

[Corey 78K5]

Ok so I have a 94 K 2500 with the 6.5 TD NV4500. I got the thing for next to nothing because the body was in rough shape. However the engine and tranny are in good shape with 140K on them. So anyways other than the drive train I have lost all interest in the truck and really want to know if I could swap the engine/tranny in my 78 K5. I am aware of issues with the slave cylinder and front drive saft, but I think there is enough lift to avoid that. I am also aware that the frame would need to be modded for the down tube. My main concern is the cluster fock wiring harness on the engine that scares me. Could the swap be done with a mechanical pump to avoid all the wiring BS? Or is there another way or am I just wasting time?

 

[bavarian_blazer]

Hey,

I'm doing the same thing right now, except the fact that I have a 1998 engine with only 50k miles ;-)

Anyway:

I'd recommend you to get rid of the wiring harness and the electronic IP (sell it on ebay or use it as core) . Get a DB2 4911 injection pump & matching injection lines and a 82-91 engine wiring harness.
I think the conversion is worth it, fuel ain't gonna get cheaper in the future!

Greetings

Florian

 

[Russell]

The mechanical swap is not too bad, as Flo said, just an IP / injection line swap from a 93 6.5L diesel.

The down pipe will be your biggest challenge. I personally had a custom one made that ran outside the frame rail but I have heard of people being able to fit them on the inside without any body lift or anything.

 

[KirsL]

I have a stock 6.5 turbo setup in my truck and it all fits but it is very snug. the stock crossover pipe and front driveshaft WILL become close friends unless you have a crazy amount of lift or mod the crossover for clearance. You can fit the downpipe inside the frame with no body lift, that's how mine is, but again you will have very little clearance and you need to make the pipe up yourself most likely. I have to get some pictures of mine but it is doable. A 1 inch body lift would go a long way to giving you lots more room. I just never did one to my truck.

 

[Corey 78K5]

So is the 82-91 engine harness only gonna be obtainable through a salvage yard? Or can you find a new one? I did a search last night for a new one and came up empty handed. Kind of a bummer cause I was wanting to do a new Painless wiring harness in the whole Blazer, and I would hate to have some old used brittle wires mixed in with it.
I suppose one could get an old harness and use it as a template to make one. Would just need the wire and correct factory connectors.

The down tube should not be a problem. I have a guy who does all the custom diesel exhaust in the area. He could do it no sweat along with the rest of the exhaust work.

 

[Thunder]

Just a few things I thought about you may need to deal with for the swap.
Mechanical IP will be the best way to go. If you stay electric you will need the wireing harness PCM and all the controls/solenoids and stuff from the donor truck
If you go mechanical As far as wireing goes you will still most likely need to fab a custom set up.
But
I think you have all you need between the two trucks. You can use the connectors from the donor truck.
Swap over the dual battery wires from donor truck. Or buy a new set.
IDN if the 94 6.5s have a mounting for a mechanical fuel lift pump. So you may/will need the electric lift pump and wireing out of the donor truck.
You will have to fab something for the oil pressure switch using the 6.5 factory connector and your existing oil pressure guage wireing plus add a hot to power the lift pump. The lift pump operation is controlled by the OPS. The wireing from the OPS to the LP can be taken from donor. You will need a fuel return line back to the tank.
If you go mechanical IP. All you need is a wire for the fuel shut off. You can use the old keyed hot ignition/coil wire for that. Then you will have to wire up a manual glow plug relay/switch. The donor truck GPs are controled by the PCM
Also need a mechanical waste gate controller for the turbo. You can make one yourself for around 20.00 or buy one for 80. You must have a boost guage to properly set the boost. No more than 12lbs if you like your head gaskets. Should also install EGT guage. Espically if you turn up the pressure on the IP.
You will have no need for the vaccum pump when you go mechanical so delete that and get a shorter belt.
Well that is about all i can think of for now. Maybe someone else will chime in.