CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
99 Burb 454 vortec "Thelma"
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
That could work too
I'm guessing IAT temps like that are pretty normal. Unless you ended up with some crazy insulated intake ducting, not going to prevent picking up heat from the existing tubing, you'd have to know fender temp if that is what the air is going through to know if that is a problem.
Your 130* reading with an ambient of 95* sounds about normal to me, but I don't have my TPI datalogs handy or I'd compare.
Is the IAT sensor in the intake? Even if plastic intake, not going to help being that close to the engine.
Your 130* reading with an ambient of 95* sounds about normal to me, but I don't have my TPI datalogs handy or I'd compare.
Is the IAT sensor in the intake? Even if plastic intake, not going to help being that close to the engine.
I'm not sure where the sensor is located, from my guess I think there is an immense amount of heat trapped in the engine bay, the only way I know of to get that out would be exiting through the hood.. The other method I know is effective would be headers and a less restrictive exhaust system so the heat is going out the rear and less is being retained by the manifolds etc. I'll try to data log this in steps to see how effective each mod is.
I remember reading something, somewhere, about OEM cooling underhood. It was pretty clear that venting through the hood was something that was avoided intentionally. There was mention of the path of airflow being through the radiator, around the engine, then out the bottom, which is part of the reason for the air dams....it creates a vacuum to pull air through the radiator and down/out. I've been reading up on the '04-05 Duramax overheating issues (pretty fascinating all the factors in that) and the complexities of underhood airflow, apparently more an issue on newer vehicles, is fairly eyebrow-raising.
Headers tend to add underhood heat, they are thinner metal than manifolds and exhaust tubing, and have far more surface area, so shed more heat. They will make things worse underhood actually. As well, if the PCM isn't reprogrammed after headers, you will end up with periods of running lean(er), which will further drive up underhood temps.
Not knowing how your throttle body is made, part of heating the intake charge up at least a bit, could be to help prevent icing. A lot easier than plumbing coolant through it.
Opinion, but I wouldn't spend a second or a dime changing anything up until I had a good idea what is normal for at least a few GM designs. Particularly if your intake tract is stock. It's going to be hard to improve on stock intake ducting in any significant manner.
Perusing my old files, I see that on a hot restart of 214* coolant temp, IAT was 151*. During ten minutes of driving at 59MPH, unloaded, on relatively flat ground, the lowest IAT recorded was 94*. It actually dipped to 94* then went back up a bit. Referencing maximum temp data for that day in the location I was driving shows 70*, indicating 24* above ambient was about as good as it would get. I would not be surprised at all to see this not being a linear relationship, higher ambients probably lead to even larger differences in IAT.
This being a manual trans, 350 with headers turning ~2100RPM, coolant temp showing 203* for the run, with a 3 row radiator, electric fans that didn't turn on, and nothing but an oil cooler in front of the radiator. No AC condensor, no power steering cooler, no trans cooler. "Stock" intake air routing from core support opening through plastic duct to rubber elbow to throttle body.
IMO that's a combo that isn't generating a whole lot of underhood heat in the first place, but still dumps 24* of heat into the intake charge. Old adage says that cost about 5HP. (1HP for every 5* of intake temp) Air moving into the engine bay at roughly 60MPH, with more space than a big block, is going to move a lot of heat out of the engine compartment. With the same size engine bay, but larger engine, underhood temps are bound to be higher based on the heat generation from more displacement, but also from the more circuitous route the air must make to get out of the engine bay.
Headers tend to add underhood heat, they are thinner metal than manifolds and exhaust tubing, and have far more surface area, so shed more heat. They will make things worse underhood actually. As well, if the PCM isn't reprogrammed after headers, you will end up with periods of running lean(er), which will further drive up underhood temps.
Not knowing how your throttle body is made, part of heating the intake charge up at least a bit, could be to help prevent icing. A lot easier than plumbing coolant through it.
Opinion, but I wouldn't spend a second or a dime changing anything up until I had a good idea what is normal for at least a few GM designs. Particularly if your intake tract is stock. It's going to be hard to improve on stock intake ducting in any significant manner.
Perusing my old files, I see that on a hot restart of 214* coolant temp, IAT was 151*. During ten minutes of driving at 59MPH, unloaded, on relatively flat ground, the lowest IAT recorded was 94*. It actually dipped to 94* then went back up a bit. Referencing maximum temp data for that day in the location I was driving shows 70*, indicating 24* above ambient was about as good as it would get. I would not be surprised at all to see this not being a linear relationship, higher ambients probably lead to even larger differences in IAT.
This being a manual trans, 350 with headers turning ~2100RPM, coolant temp showing 203* for the run, with a 3 row radiator, electric fans that didn't turn on, and nothing but an oil cooler in front of the radiator. No AC condensor, no power steering cooler, no trans cooler. "Stock" intake air routing from core support opening through plastic duct to rubber elbow to throttle body.
IMO that's a combo that isn't generating a whole lot of underhood heat in the first place, but still dumps 24* of heat into the intake charge. Old adage says that cost about 5HP. (1HP for every 5* of intake temp) Air moving into the engine bay at roughly 60MPH, with more space than a big block, is going to move a lot of heat out of the engine compartment. With the same size engine bay, but larger engine, underhood temps are bound to be higher based on the heat generation from more displacement, but also from the more circuitous route the air must make to get out of the engine bay.
I changed the brakes last night.. All was well because really as most of you know you remove the wheel, two Allen head bolts and the spindle nut, swap the pats and your done.. Should be a 1 hour job per side max if you really take your time.. Me being the ocd guy I am bought the "premium" brake pads from vatozone, that might have been a mistake. See when I buy a part that should be designed to work with a vehicle, I expected it to fit. Now maybe I have sky high expectations and need to return to reality...
I got all the brake hardware off and the new rotors on greased bearings new dust seals etc.. I slapped the pads and and it's no where close to fitting.. I think we'll maybe the piston is not retracted.. No big deal I'll compress them in with a c clamp. Got the piston down some but it still wouldn't even slide over the rotor.. After pounding on it sum with a mallet and looking around I decided to check the "internets"! Findin that this a very widespread issue and results to grinding pads down.. At this point it's too late to take them back, the wife needs to use the truck today.. So I just start removing pad material until they fit, of course I didn't have my sanding discs for the grinder and only had cutoff wheels and my bench grinder. So between taking it down and then leveling them off with a rasp it took me an additional 2 hours combined to get both back together.. I will never ever buy another duralast brake product again.. This will be the third time I have been screwed by their crappy production items..
Ac delco from here out, I don't care if it costs me 2x as much. At least I know when I install the part it will fit.
Other than that the only knucklehead thing I did was forget to put the master resivoir cap completely on and when the wife was bedding in the brakes it got fluid everywhere.. So it was 2 cans of brake clean and the hose just for good measure.. But hey at least the brakes have material on them now.. Instead of steel on steel.. Went to bed at 1:45am lol my vacation is starting out awesome.. At least I checked off one box.
I got all the brake hardware off and the new rotors on greased bearings new dust seals etc.. I slapped the pads and and it's no where close to fitting.. I think we'll maybe the piston is not retracted.. No big deal I'll compress them in with a c clamp. Got the piston down some but it still wouldn't even slide over the rotor.. After pounding on it sum with a mallet and looking around I decided to check the "internets"! Findin that this a very widespread issue and results to grinding pads down.. At this point it's too late to take them back, the wife needs to use the truck today.. So I just start removing pad material until they fit, of course I didn't have my sanding discs for the grinder and only had cutoff wheels and my bench grinder. So between taking it down and then leveling them off with a rasp it took me an additional 2 hours combined to get both back together.. I will never ever buy another duralast brake product again.. This will be the third time I have been screwed by their crappy production items..
Ac delco from here out, I don't care if it costs me 2x as much. At least I know when I install the part it will fit.
Other than that the only knucklehead thing I did was forget to put the master resivoir cap completely on and when the wife was bedding in the brakes it got fluid everywhere.. So it was 2 cans of brake clean and the hose just for good measure.. But hey at least the brakes have material on them now.. Instead of steel on steel.. Went to bed at 1:45am lol my vacation is starting out awesome.. At least I checked off one box.
I hate those kinds of speed bumps. Kills my motivation for that project. At least you pushed through and gotter done!
I do not give up nor am i defeated easily.. I only stop for a few things. Literally if the project cannot be completed because of lack of parts, time issues, not being a bad neighbor, and physical exhaustion causing the situation to be extremely dangerous.. Not worth hurting myself to finish something if I can't concentrate or manipulate the tools properly. Other than that I usually WILL find a way..
I always have bought the cheapy pads from them and they seem fine. I don't much care for the premium pads, they are so hard that they dont seem to stop as well.
My friend refuses to install Duralast "premium" pads,or the high dollar Wagner and other name brands at his shop unless the customer insists, because of the "too thick" issues he has run into that a few times,plus they squeal like stuck pigs,the lining is too hard...many customers come back complaining they sounds worse than the worn out pads hitting the squealers..also they eat rotors..
I found out on my '81 G-10 van with manual brakes,if I put mettallic pads on it,I had to stand up off the seat to stop,and couldn't even lock up the tires in a panic stop..a Bendix rep came into the store I worked at and I told him I thought their "best" pads sucked,after a trip to Hunter Mountain in NY almost got me killed,when I was coming down long downhill grades..
He told me to put organic pads on it,vehicles without power assist shouldn't use mettallic pads-- and label the mettallic ones "defective" and he'd give me credit for them...to my surprise,the van stopped much better with organics,and it will lock the front wheels up fairly easy in a panic stop,without having to stand on the pedal or stomp on it fast..
I found out on my '81 G-10 van with manual brakes,if I put mettallic pads on it,I had to stand up off the seat to stop,and couldn't even lock up the tires in a panic stop..a Bendix rep came into the store I worked at and I told him I thought their "best" pads sucked,after a trip to Hunter Mountain in NY almost got me killed,when I was coming down long downhill grades..
He told me to put organic pads on it,vehicles without power assist shouldn't use mettallic pads-- and label the mettallic ones "defective" and he'd give me credit for them...to my surprise,the van stopped much better with organics,and it will lock the front wheels up fairly easy in a panic stop,without having to stand on the pedal or stomp on it fast..
I may just do that because they're ok but not great like they should be.. I'd prefer to not have half ground pads on it..
half ground NEW pads...
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I'm a little late but 3 times I've had to drive home with the hand brake in my beater because a auto zone brake pads of various premiumness has let go. My last set I got 120 miles on and it was metal to metal on brand new calipers.
Raybestos are going strong right now.
Raybestos are going strong right now.
All my cars have autozone "gold" pads with a lifetime warranty. I've used dozens of sets, never had an issue.
From my research raybestos makes these for duracrAp
This look normal? Climbing a long grade the temp goes up some but for the most part is on the thick line after 100 deg which I assume is 180??
The voltmeter looks low.
Martin
Martin
Don't know the later stuff well, if you can get into the datastream easily, look at what the PCM is "seeing" for a temp from the CTS. It's possible the gauge is off a bit, or someone swapped thermostats.
I'll check it. Ac was on but I agree the alt might be putting out a low voltage.. I'll check and see what the ecm is getting
That's where mine always rode. Between 180-190 unless I was pulling a grade. She was always a cold blooded bitch but better than running hot.
