Consider me in line for the second set
CK5
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A '69 Build... "Brought to you by Don Juan Productions" Full index added to page #1
Thanks Ash. Feels great to be close to getting both sides lookin' the same.
If this fails, I do believe that the rig and I are both in a world of hurt...
Thanks Soot. Nope on the shims. I just have Kert's perchs in there for the time being. Nothing is welded until I get the rest in and can figure out my angle.
Consider me in line for the second set
Not this week, dude. My computer key punchin' ass, is sore today. That was a million times of under the truck, to the workbench, back under the truck, in the truck, back to the workbench, under the truck... You get the idea
Try me next week..
Not this week, dude. My computer key punchin' ass, is sore today. That was a million times of under the truck, to the workbench, back under the truck, in the truck, back to the workbench, under the truck... You get the idea
Try me next week..
I'll remember this
ooooh, didn't know he was taking requests....
I'll remember this
ooooh, didn't know he was taking requests....
You guys, shoot right over. After we knock out a couple of things on mine, we'll start on those sliders for y'all.
well played sir, well played.
Nice job Mike!
Any special plans for the inside of the framerails behind those mounts? The weight of the truck on those sliders is going to put a LOT of torsional stress on the framerail....focused specifically into the areas where those mount to the frame.
Ideally, you'd tie the DS & PS together with a crossmember directly behind each of those mounts, but pesky stuff like driveshafts will probably make that impossible.
My recommendation is to lay down quietly on the shop floor underneath it for a couple of hours....
-G
Any special plans for the inside of the framerails behind those mounts? The weight of the truck on those sliders is going to put a LOT of torsional stress on the framerail....focused specifically into the areas where those mount to the frame.
Ideally, you'd tie the DS & PS together with a crossmember directly behind each of those mounts, but pesky stuff like driveshafts will probably make that impossible.
My recommendation is to lay down quietly on the shop floor underneath it for a couple of hours....
-G
Yep, it's in the plans, just don't know what plans yet..
I really want to see where and how I'm going to build my doubler mount first.
The only thing that I really knew is those mounting points (6"x 6") plates were the furthest I could push them out. I really don't know if I'm going to use the plates even yet. I'd like to come up with something that will catch all three sides of the frame and still tie into the doubler mounts. That way the doubler mounting would act as my cross members. In my mind, the sliders would end up being a frame extension more than a slider, I guess.
I figure a 12 pack and a pillow for under the truck and I'll have it figured out pretty quick. Either that, or I'll be well rested.
Edit: I wrote a bunch of stuff, then my brain turned on..
I really want to see where and how I'm going to build my doubler mount first.
The only thing that I really knew is those mounting points (6"x 6") plates were the furthest I could push them out. I really don't know if I'm going to use the plates even yet. I'd like to come up with something that will catch all three sides of the frame and still tie into the doubler mounts. That way the doubler mounting would act as my cross members. In my mind, the sliders would end up being a frame extension more than a slider, I guess.
I figure a 12 pack and a pillow for under the truck and I'll have it figured out pretty quick. Either that, or I'll be well rested.
Edit: I wrote a bunch of stuff, then my brain turned on..
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bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Woah, I slack on reading the forums for a few days and come back to see this. Nice work. What was the reason for the bend on those frame extensions? The curved side looks really well formed cosmetically but I dont see that part in the pictures? Did you just make it look that nice to make it more challenging?
Did you just make it look that nice to make it more challenging?
Lol, I sure didn't do it to challenge myself anymore.. I do enough of that on my own..
I needed to end those extensions before I hit my 2x6 gutter that I built into it. I had 2 1/2 inches before I hit the gutter from the inside of the 2x6. I ran the extensions out to 2 1/4 so when I take the tub off again and weld it all in, I'll have a full weld on the end too. I figured this was the most meat I could get out of all the pieces that I used.
the art of the fishmouth...
should stand up well to the boulder drop....
should stand up well to the boulder drop....
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Lol, I sure didn't do it to challenge myself anymore.. I do enough of that on my own..
I needed to end those extensions before I hit my 2x6 gutter that I built into it. I had 2 1/2 inches before I hit the gutter from the inside of the 2x6. I ran the extensions out to 2 1/4 so when I take the tub off again and weld it all in, I'll have a full weld on the end too. I figured this was the most meat I could get out of all the pieces that I used.
Ah, I see it now. I was thinking you might be trying to match the curvature of the rocker panel from behind.
After two years, I finally installed the transmission for mock up last night. It gave me a lot of time under the rig to start to figure out how I'm going to tie all this together.
I need to get some metal bent up today, as I think that I have a plan. [Insert evil laugh here]
Quick question- I want to have 0 degrees reading on top of my intake, correct?
I need to get some metal bent up today, as I think that I have a plan. [Insert evil laugh here]
Quick question- I want to have 0 degrees reading on top of my intake, correct?
around 3 degrees...
since I'm a noob, mind telling me why this matters?
it makes sense to me that you'd want your drive train as level as possible, but why would a few degrees here or there make any difference?
Is that 3 degrees with the tranny being lower?
Thanks Paul.
yes....
iirc the original line of thinking from the manny's was for pinion angle.... being much easier to get a workable, non-vibrating driveline with a slight angle there....
Some intakes have an angle cast into them....
Drop an angle finder on the top edge of the valvecovers and compare that to the intake base to see if they are consistent.
A slight downward slope in the drivelines will make it easier to get your u-joints in the best operating range, but.....big surprise here......"it's all about compromises"
As you set up the tranmisssion and transfercase, you need to decide how far down below the framerails you can tolerate seeing them. Maybe an inch or two is acceptable to you....for me that number was 0". I spent a lot of time getting that value to 0" and then took a look at motor mounts and the overall driveline angles. As luck would have it the motor mounts didn't have to get any higher than stock... but I lost all of the driveline angularity so my valvecovers are at 0.0*, and my intake was at 4* (IIRC). I bought a 4* carb shim which I will install backwards to get the carb mounting area raked back to 0.0*
It depends on the rear driveshaft length too, as your operating angle (off the xfercase output side) will start to get really steep if the driveshaft is short. A CV-style shaft will help you (at a price $$$). Another happy coincidence for me was the flipped 9" centersections and the portal axles give me a REALLY shallow driveshaft angle (only 10*) which you really can't get with any sort of conventional driveline / 14BFF axle setup.....
So.... keep studying other builds for ideas, but think about the bigger picture stuff too. Each build is based on different assumptions / compromises which may not apply to your particular build goals.
-G
Drop an angle finder on the top edge of the valvecovers and compare that to the intake base to see if they are consistent.
A slight downward slope in the drivelines will make it easier to get your u-joints in the best operating range, but.....big surprise here......"it's all about compromises"
As you set up the tranmisssion and transfercase, you need to decide how far down below the framerails you can tolerate seeing them. Maybe an inch or two is acceptable to you....for me that number was 0". I spent a lot of time getting that value to 0" and then took a look at motor mounts and the overall driveline angles. As luck would have it the motor mounts didn't have to get any higher than stock... but I lost all of the driveline angularity so my valvecovers are at 0.0*, and my intake was at 4* (IIRC). I bought a 4* carb shim which I will install backwards to get the carb mounting area raked back to 0.0*
It depends on the rear driveshaft length too, as your operating angle (off the xfercase output side) will start to get really steep if the driveshaft is short. A CV-style shaft will help you (at a price $$$). Another happy coincidence for me was the flipped 9" centersections and the portal axles give me a REALLY shallow driveshaft angle (only 10*) which you really can't get with any sort of conventional driveline / 14BFF axle setup.....
So.... keep studying other builds for ideas, but think about the bigger picture stuff too. Each build is based on different assumptions / compromises which may not apply to your particular build goals.
-G
cool. so it's all about driveline angle. thanks for the info guys.
hey norcal69, how much money do you think you have into tubing so far? I'm a long way from cage work, but I'd like to get a feel for how much money I'd be looking at.
hey norcal69, how much money do you think you have into tubing so far? I'm a long way from cage work, but I'd like to get a feel for how much money I'd be looking at.
