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A bit hoppy

Jack Schmitt

Jack Schmitt

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Posts
66
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48
Location
Tennessee
Hello All, I really got myself a project here. I trailered it home, replaced some brake parts and got the wheels spinning. Got the motor running and drove it a short distance. It seems a bit hoppy. Like if it were in 4WD and you turned the wheel on dry street? Except I was going straight and 4W wasn't on. Could the angle of the drive shaft be the problem?
 
Welcome Jack


little more info pls. how much lift if any ? 1st loose u bolts will cause a shudder from a stop. You could try torquing them 9/16" dia u bolts to 95 foot pounds. 5/8" to 120 foot pounds. the drive shaft u joints could be sticking and binding that will cause a shudder.
Are you sure it's not in 4wd, can you turn the front drive by hand while truck is on the ground in park? If not it's in 4wd. do your hubs have manual locks ?
 
Wes, thanks for the input. I'm positive it's not the factory suspension, but I'm not sure of the lift height vs factory. I'll try torquing the bolts like you mentioned. They're all pretty rusted but I'll get them loose and check the torque. Right now the front leafs are shot and inverted but the rear is still sitting high. I do know the 4wd is off because I changed the front calipers and pads and could spin the fronts freely. It doesn't have manual locks. I'll also change the differential fluid front and back and see if that helps. I'm definitely getting a shutter, so that could be part of it.
 
the factory fronts did kinda run flat, and are wide 3", most if not all aftermarket are 2.5"

Since you were just in the hubs that rules out old hard grease sticking the locks.

Measure from the top of the axle tubes to the snubber perches. This will help id lift if any.
 
Welcome Jack.
As Wes said, stock fronts are usually reverse arch after decades.

When is it stuttering happening. Under acceleration, deceleration, when you go over a bump?

Where are you located in Tennessee? I'm near Knoxville.
 
Thanks for the welcome! I'm down in Nolensville, South of Nashville. The stuttering is happening during slow acceleration and low speeds. But that's all I've gotten to do so far. LOL.

Wes asked me about the measurements to the snubber. The rear is almost 6" travel space and has a stack of 6 leafs and 2 blocks under it.
The front has under 1 1/2" travel space and has 2 leafs and 2 blocks.

I was going to throw a rough country suspension set on it that says it's a 2" lift but I only have a 7" garage door so I need to watch my height. But I'm thinking without the blocks it might be the same as it is now or maybe lower.
 
Jack Schmitt said:
Thanks for the welcome! I'm down in Nolensville, South of Nashville. The stuttering is happening during slow acceleration and low speeds. But that's all I've gotten to do so far. LOL.

Wes asked me about the measurements to the snubber. The rear is almost 6" travel space and has a stack of 6 leafs and 2 blocks under it.
The front has under 1 1/2" travel space and has 2 leafs and 2 blocks.

I was going to throw a rough country suspension set on it that says it's a 2" lift but I only have a 7" garage door so I need to watch my height. But I'm thinking without the blocks it might be the same as it is now or maybe lower.
Click to expand...


front blocks are not a good idea. I would definitely try to replace them as soon as possible.

Rough Country lifts for the GM trucks really ride rough. not very soft and smooth. I think a better option would be to look at Tuff Country or BDS lifts. or check out Offroad Design; they can have custom leaf springs made for your truck.
 
Ah, thanks for the heads up 4WlrJeff. I appreciate that. I was shopping by price but it's worth it to pay a little more for a better ride and I didn't know which ones would be worth paying more for, so that's good info.
 
Thanks again 4whlrJeff.

Another question because I'm just really getting to look this thing over. Is it normal to have a 10 bolt rear diff plate and a 12 bolt front diff plate? Or would that mean something has been swapped?
 
Jack Schmitt said:
Thanks again 4whlrJeff.

Another question because I'm just really getting to look this thing over. Is it normal to have a 10 bolt rear diff plate and a 12 bolt front diff plate? Or would that mean something has been swapped?
Click to expand...
12 bolt cover in front is extremely odd. Maybe thats the rear cover? An 85 should have what is referred to as a corporate 10 bolt front and rear axles.

1637506406231.jpeg
 
Thanks 76, this K5 has a crate motor too. I'm guessing some other things have been swapped out then too.
 
BP, the rear also has a chrome cover plate, so probably if something was changed it could be the rear.
 
Wouldn't a 1st gen 12 bolt be a closed knuckle? Idk.
Sound like your front springs are well shot. Block in the front is not a good set up. A small shim or an offset bolted to the springs with a through bolt is acceptable
 
I apologize guys. I should have turned the lights on in the garage AND scrapped all the caked gunk off. I just did that and it's a 10 bolt front too.
 
No worries, it's all good. Sometimes if gives us a mystery to work on.
Now I need a Scooby snack
 
Hungry Dog GIF by Scooby-Doo
 
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