Ok so the sticker on my ac box says it takes 3.25lbs of r12. And I know I need 8oz. Of oil. The compressor comes with 3oz already so I need to distribute another 5 amongst the rest of the system. I read that you use about 10% less r134 than r12. So doing the math I need about 2.9 lbs of r134 or 46.8 oz. Does that all sound right? I plan on getting pag150 oil with UV dye. Anyone see any problems there?
CK5
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A/C system revamp
- Thread starter Jake_C_
- Start date
So if all your parts are new and or flushed, you will need another 5 oz of oil, some in accumulator, evaporator and condenser.
I highly recommend draining the oil in the new compressor and adding your own 3 oz just to be sure.
Can't trust what they say might be in there. Maybe to little or to much.
2.9 sounds like a viable amount.
Get the pure r134a no dye no oil.
Fyi the cans are 12oz not 1 pd
I highly recommend draining the oil in the new compressor and adding your own 3 oz just to be sure.
Can't trust what they say might be in there. Maybe to little or to much.
2.9 sounds like a viable amount.
Get the pure r134a no dye no oil.
Fyi the cans are 12oz not 1 pd
I took your advice here. Drained and refilled it. Getting close to filling the system with refrigerant. One thing that I want to do is adjust the pressure switch on the accumulator. It has a screw between the terminals to adjust it. I read somewhere awhile ago how far to turn the screw and in what direction but I can’t seem to find it again, anyone know?
it would be best to adjust that when the system is charged and the compressor is running, with pressure gauges on the system so you can set the low pressure.
the spec will depend on many things ambient temp, humidity, but in general @32-38 psi on the low side.
the spec will depend on many things ambient temp, humidity, but in general @32-38 psi on the low side.
You will get the adjustment screw down to about a 45° arc of turn range with the gauges. One side of the arc will be freezing up the system and the other side will be just a bit too warm inside on hot days. As pointed out above. The exact right setting will change based on outside air temp, humidity and what kind of driving you are doing. I start at the freezing end and work my way to right on the edge of freezing during normal driving.
Ok great I’ll do that then, thank you.
Pulled a vacuum on the system last night, it held without moving at all for a few hours. I let it sit overnight and and it’s gone down a little. Should I be concerned about a leak or could it just be temperature changes causing it or something?
No. If it only dropped an inch or 2 your good. Any old oil that might be left in the system will give up gas trapped in it for a little while, esp under a vacuum.
Holding over night is excellent.
Holding over night is excellent.
Found it was leaking at the compressor where the lines come in. Did a little research and found out that using the red seal on the r4 compressors is a no no for some reason. Used the green and gold one and torqued it down to spec (25ftlbs). So we’ll see if it leaks. I also noticed it was leaking at the high pressure fitting on the hard line from the evaporator to the condenser. So I ordered new schrader valves. When I first pulled a vacuum it never got down to 30 more like 25 but I figured it was because the vacuum is old or something because it held pressure for so long I didn’t think there was a leak. Now I’m realizing it’s because anything past that vacuum level and it was leaking. So I pulled a vacuum again with the compressor leak “fixed” and it still maxed at about 25. And although I haven’t replaced the schrader in the high side fitting it shouldn’t even matter with the valve being depressed by the fitting on it. So now I think there’s still a leak somewhere. The problem Is I really can’t check for leaks without adding refrigerant and inevitably wasting it because the dye needs to be pushed out with pressure for me to find the problem.
If you have or can get CO2, or nitrogen (better) gas up the system with either of these, use soapy water in a squirt bottle to find bubbles.
Remember to put a small amount of ac oil on orings when assembling.
Remember to put a small amount of ac oil on orings when assembling.
Ah so that’s how they do it, I figured there had to be a way to pressurize the system without refrigerant. Thanks. And I did apply oil to the o-rings first.
Does it matter where you dump oil into the drier or compressor? High side low side? Just pour it in?
How are yall measuring? Syringe?
I saw 25ftlbs on lines for compressor, do you know any other torqs for the rest of system?
How are yall measuring? Syringe?
I saw 25ftlbs on lines for compressor, do you know any other torqs for the rest of system?
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
I put about an ounce of oil in each line, one in the condenser and evaporator if it’s out, half of what’s left in the accumulator, the other half in the compressor. I don’t use torque specs, just feel…
Ive got all new parts i already stuck new evap in, just havent put oil in it. Could i shoot it in with co2? Probably dont wanna use shop air huh?
Just wasnt sure if matters high or low, but you make sense by putting it in each, then its everywhere
nitro_rat
1/2 ton status
Don’t stress about it, just put that oz in the drier…
Thanks!
Yeah after putting the correct amount in the compressor I just spread it around a bit and dumped the rest in the accumulator. I used a food scale and weighed it out in liquid oz. Aside from the compressor I didn’t find torque specs for anything I just did it all by feel.
My condenser has lasted 37 years so far.
I'm guilty of sometimes shooting shop air into the system for leak testing. Pressure just shows leaks so much faster than vacuum (and pressure is how the system operates). I figure since I'm going to vacuum it all out again in a few minutes the little bit of moisture won't hurt anything. You can also just shoot refrigerant in for leak testing (especially if it has already held a vacuum).
My condenser was the original, but ever since weve had this truck, (maybe 15-20 years), weve never ran AC. I rented flush kit from vato-zone and it shot denatured alcohol everywhere multiple leaks. I had planned on runnin it and using R-12 as i had found a good cheap source.
I just bought a spectra PF condenser and now ill just run R-134 as every other component of my system is brand spankin new.
Just cant decide if i should use blue ford oriface tube or a VoV,
I just bought a spectra PF condenser and now ill just run R-134 as every other component of my system is brand spankin new.
Just cant decide if i should use blue ford oriface tube or a VoV,
I used the ford blue one, I’ve heard bad things about VoVs but it in theory would be better.
