Like this.... Don't forget the speed holes for extra coolness! 
CK5
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A cage for the Jimmy! Progress pics and worried questions (!) post 18!
- Thread starter blowedupmotor87
- Start date
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
That looks absolutely SICK Greg!
I like that a lot! To answer your question, the rear half is 2" .120 wall DOM, the front half is 1&5/8" .120 wall DOM. Most of the bracing ideas would likely be 1&5/8" .120 wall DOM since the 2" gets bulky looking/weighing very quickly! Greg, I like your idea with the box pieces, that's along the lines of what I was thinking but, actually easier to make than my idea.
I don't know if this is a concern or not but, would the edges of the box gussets make stress points on the tube in a rollover and hasten its deformation (making the tube fail where they attach)? Or, would they add the necessary strength to resist the deformation of the trapezoid design? Now granted, I would be fish mouthing them so, there would be force distribution and a longer weld bead than if they connected at a straight edge (I think a straight edge connection would definitely make a stress point that would cause tube failure at the gussets). I really wish I hadn't failed out of mechanical engineering my freshman year!
I like that a lot! To answer your question, the rear half is 2" .120 wall DOM, the front half is 1&5/8" .120 wall DOM. Most of the bracing ideas would likely be 1&5/8" .120 wall DOM since the 2" gets bulky looking/weighing very quickly! Greg, I like your idea with the box pieces, that's along the lines of what I was thinking but, actually easier to make than my idea. I don't know if this is a concern or not but, would the edges of the box gussets make stress points on the tube in a rollover and hasten its deformation (making the tube fail where they attach)? Or, would they add the necessary strength to resist the deformation of the trapezoid design? Now granted, I would be fish mouthing them so, there would be force distribution and a longer weld bead than if they connected at a straight edge (I think a straight edge connection would definitely make a stress point that would cause tube failure at the gussets). I really wish I hadn't failed out of mechanical engineering my freshman year!
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I don't think you'd have a "can-opener" effect at the top and bottom edges. To have that happen, first something else will have to move to allow that motion....in this case, the weld bead running down the entire length of both sides. With a good solid weld, it's just never going to happen.
If you were really worried about it, instead of cutting a fishmouth, you could leave an extra "tab" of metal on the top and bottom, then hammer them to fit the curved shape of the cage and weld them flat against the cage.
I'd like to see you try this idea. I think it has a cool desert-truck look, and it will totally solve your problem without creating a 400Lb jungle gym effect back there. The trick will be finding the box tubing in the exact dimension that you'll need to have this fit correctly...
If you were really worried about it, instead of cutting a fishmouth, you could leave an extra "tab" of metal on the top and bottom, then hammer them to fit the curved shape of the cage and weld them flat against the cage.
I'd like to see you try this idea. I think it has a cool desert-truck look, and it will totally solve your problem without creating a 400Lb jungle gym effect back there. The trick will be finding the box tubing in the exact dimension that you'll need to have this fit correctly...
i like that idea too. sure would look great and be very unique. i have one critique of greg's drawing of the cage, tho. the green bars are going to be very unpleasant for passengers in the back of the truck and will create a pretty unpleasant place to bang a head while bouncing around and rolling over.
my rear hoop is narrower than my b-pillar hoop. to make room for the passenger space, i put a small bend into the bar that goes from hoop to hoop. you could do something similar in those green bars so that you still get the structural rigidity of tying all of those bars in at one place.
so, perhaps you would run the green bars parallel to the bed sides till about a foot or two from that point on the b-pillar hoop, and then bend it in. for extra support, if you're not keen on the bend, you could run a short 1 foot long piece of tube from that bend to the upright of the b-pillar hoop to further triangulate it. i don't think that's necessary, tho.
my rear hoop is narrower than my b-pillar hoop. to make room for the passenger space, i put a small bend into the bar that goes from hoop to hoop. you could do something similar in those green bars so that you still get the structural rigidity of tying all of those bars in at one place.
so, perhaps you would run the green bars parallel to the bed sides till about a foot or two from that point on the b-pillar hoop, and then bend it in. for extra support, if you're not keen on the bend, you could run a short 1 foot long piece of tube from that bend to the upright of the b-pillar hoop to further triangulate it. i don't think that's necessary, tho.
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
The green X is in and actually clears the rear seat passengers' heads perfectly. It's funny 'cause a whole bunch of people in my class don't believe it clears until they sit in the rear seat!
Colby, that is a freakin sweet looking cage! You've got me almost tempted to go full-vert!
Greg, you bring up a very good point, with it welded the whole way around, the tube would never get the chance to deform enough for a can opener efft, thanks bro!
I don't know if I can get that sized rectangular tube though... what about a gusset made from the round tube I've got, then the opening plated and speed holed? Same effect, just a bit different of a way of getting to it?
Colby, that is a freakin sweet looking cage! You've got me almost tempted to go full-vert!
Greg, you bring up a very good point, with it welded the whole way around, the tube would never get the chance to deform enough for a can opener efft, thanks bro!
I don't know if I can get that sized rectangular tube though... what about a gusset made from the round tube I've got, then the opening plated and speed holed? Same effect, just a bit different of a way of getting to it?
The "round tube and two plates" idea will work just as well. You might not have enough inside clearance to drill the speed holes you want though.
Remember the strength of that gusset is only as good as the fitment of the extra tube. Keep the gaps as tight as possible at the intersection points.....actually that's pretty much a rule at EVERY intersection point of a roll cage.
Post up pics as you go... I'm curious to see how it turns out.
Remember the strength of that gusset is only as good as the fitment of the extra tube. Keep the gaps as tight as possible at the intersection points.....actually that's pretty much a rule at EVERY intersection point of a roll cage.
Post up pics as you go... I'm curious to see how it turns out.
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Definately good ideas Greg!
The gussett is great whether its done with rectangular or tube and two plates. The two plates is probably easier to do with stuff on hand.
I picture a similar gussett on the bottom like a right triangle to the floor to support the bottom of the bar where the bend goes back to the interior of the tub??
The holes in the plate also make great tie down points.
The gussett is great whether its done with rectangular or tube and two plates. The two plates is probably easier to do with stuff on hand.
I picture a similar gussett on the bottom like a right triangle to the floor to support the bottom of the bar where the bend goes back to the interior of the tub??
The holes in the plate also make great tie down points.
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GEORGIA GABE
1/2 ton status
I didnt see it anywhere, but are you attaching the seats to the roll cage?
gabe
gabe
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
I'm having thoughts along those lines, IDK.
Yup, planning on it, seats and harnesses to the cage.
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
Still debating as to whether I should keep this cage and gusset the ever living crud outta it, or just "finish" it and scrap it later and build one that doesn't start off with built in design flaws. Thought about this today-I'm just glad if I was gonna mess up a cage that I messed up my own instead of someone else's!
i think you should finish it with the gussets greg suggested. it'll be plenty strong for almost any wheeler out there. i think you'll be happy with it. 
x2!
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
I like what greg is thinking of... but I'd still add a vertical peice of tube.
That will also double your mounting area.
BAH... I can't post pics.
That will also double your mounting area.
BAH... I can't post pics.
I was doing some searching and came across this thread. I like the gusset idea. Any updates?
blowedupmotor87
1/2 ton status
Right now it is sitting in the garage sans bumpers, sliders, lights, and winch (selling them right now). Once I get some money coming in (get a job!), I will be saving up to get this build going again! Gonna scratch the current rollcage, beginning again, and build some more tucked in bumpers and sliders than what I had on it. It'll be a few months but, this thread will get going again!
