CK5
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A little tig welding advise needed

:haha:Gotta be fkn kidding me lol


Just a temp fix. He dosnt want to take the whole thing out to tig, which is what I originally suggested.

As far as welding after JB, yup you gotta grind it all out.
 
With all due respect:

For the love of gawd.... Don't put JB weld on it.
What a pita that would be, to remove.

:doah:
 
Dont think I would try the jb. And running without that 4th bolt isnt a good idea either.

I tried it once after the same thing happened to me. 1 wheeling trip and I ruined the transmission case to where it was beyond repair. Not to mention the $35 in transmission fluid I lost when the case broke and having to be towed out.

My advice, pull and fix it right. I know that sucks to hear but Ill bet if you try to rig something up it will leave you stranded. Then again it might last forever but in my experience that is not a good situation to try and rig something up.
 
Thanks.The broken part is on the tranmission end,not the case end,the case is fine,in the pic the case is on right trans on left.i did get a bolt in there with a lock nut and washer, but I still have the little broken peice, I will have it welded back on later.Can anyone recall what the exact size the 2 top bolts from the 205 to the 350 are?They seem to b a different size that the bottom bolts.Ill go to the dealer and get them this week.:thumb:
 
I understand that the transmission is what is broken, sorry if I sounded confused.

what happens without that other bolt in the top is the t-case and adapter can flex back and forth which will loosen the other bolts and eventually break the transmission case to where it is unrepairable. I wish I had some pics to show what happened to mine, it busted the whole back end of the transmission.

Adding the bolt with the lock nut may provide enough clamping force to keep this from happening but I wouldnt count on it.
 
Found a picture of the top side. On the bottom there is a crack that runs all the way to the tranny pan and it pulled the threads completely out of the remaining two bolt holes. The bolt hole that busted off first was on the bottom left.

189764_513718472838_93700468_30424834_5320843_n.jpg
 
I just put the rear CM in, and it went in easy like pie,i just dont see why or how the frame needs to be spread apart ,to get the tranny CM in,being that its Only about a foot away from the rear CM. Seems kinda weird,oh wtf!:haha::thumb: I just want to know why......
 
:thumb: im gonna just get an extra long bolt and lock washer it for now :doah:

I have done this before and while not the "right" way to do stuff it worked.

One word of caution though, the threads on any aluminum case (virtually every trans we use) can pull out so when you pull it to fix it right, heli coil all the holes
 
It seems to be, its totaly custom!!its all I can afford for now too.:haha: can anyone tell me the about the frame ~spreading~ ? I dont get it,or how or why it wld have moved when the rear one hasnt....
 
oh,and it dosent matter why the frame needed to be spread,lol, some things just ~ are~
 
Whell, what u said made perfect sense, i needed the hi lift anyway for later,so it was a win win. Im really new to all this, stuff, this is my first building of anything in fact, truth be told. Its pretty darn intense, and frustrating as all hell, but ive just learned to accept the fact, that its gonna be a pain.An real emotional vampire haha. Theres a great feeling when you get it right,the tranny being a bad example,of coarse:haha:. Stay tuned = for more mudain questions :thumb::whistle:
 
Yea.... "Well, you need a pile of bullsh*t, to respect a sunny day."


As my father used to say.... :rolleyes:
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I'm glad you're makin' progress...
I'm dying to go wheeling, and need to get my rig smogged, so I can do so... :doah:
 
So,set the tranny mounts on the crossmember,and of corse,the holes dont line from the transmission through to the mounts. The whole thing need to come forward a 1/4 inch. I was thinking using a comealong to pull the whole show forward . Is this ok to do?
 

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