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About to buy a lockright for my d44

L

lochenjons

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And the local 4x4 shop can get me one in a day for $350 including shipping, tax, everything. I've found it here too for $299:
http://www.central4wd.com/inventorydetail.aspx?page=id|13036;folder|5521

And here for $275:
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/71007

Any of you have any experience with either of those two companys? I'd love to support the local shop since I've got stuff from them before and trust them and all, but if I can save some money I'm all for it. :crazy: Or do you know another place to get one for cheap?

Any links to right up on installs? I've read the pavementsucks.com one and it was great, but I'd definately like to see some mroe links if you got em.

Any advice, problems, suggestions thatll make the install a little smoother? I've never installed a locker before, but from what I've read and heard it sounds pretty straightforward.
Thanks :D
 
Ive always had good experience with jegs and summit plus they usually have free shipping. They both sell the lockright for around $300.....I bought mine a year and a half ago for $229 from them.

As far as the installation, its pretty simple. The lockright itself only consists of a few parts. Just pull the diff cover, pull the bearing caps (make sure to mark which one is passenger side and which one is driver side as well as the top and bottom of the caps because they need to go in the exact same way they came out). Make sure the axleshafts are slid out of the carrier and then pop the carrier out. Once the carrier is out, take the little bolt that holds the cross pin in, then remove the cross pin. Once it is out, rotate the spider gears so they "fall" out. With them out, follow the instructions that came with the lockright. Sometimes they will fit into the carrier just like that, on mine I HAD to remove the ring gear to get it in there. If you have to do that, make sure to note that the ring gear bolts are reverse thread bolts. I didnt know this and it took me forever to get the ring gear off. When you put it back on be sure to use locktight on the bolts and torque them to 80 ft/lbs. Once the lockright is in there, put the pins and springs in the lockright (basically they make the lockright lock and unlock around turns and such). Then just reinstall the carrier back into the diff housing and torque the bearing caps down. I believe they torque at 35 ft/lbs but you should look it up to be sure. Then put the axle shafts back in and the hubs back on....and with the vehicle still jacked up follow the directions in the lockright manual on how to test it. It involves spinning one wheel and holding the other....and some other moves like that i dont quite remember but its in the manual. You should hear it clicking and whatnot. Once it passes that test, take it out to a grass field or gravel parking lot to test it before you hit the trail. You will notice that the turning radius is decreased significantly and the steering wheel will require much more force to turn. Then take it to the trail and be amazed at how many more places you can go and how easy obstacles now are that were once pretty difficult.:D

I forgot to mention....it may be a good time to brace your steering box now if you havent already. I never had problems with mine until after the lockright. After about a year of wheeling with the lockright my steering is getting very bad. I wanted crossover before the locker...I NEED it now. My power steering pump has started squealing and the added stress from the locker has caused my steering box to start to pull away from the frame. Its amazing how much stress that locker put on the front end.
-Harrison
 
Its a Dana44 , so forget the bolt for the crosshaft/centerpin/cross pin , its a roll pin . You will be finding a tool from whatever you have that fits the hole and driving it out .

The GM axles have the bolts .

And every single Dana44 I have done so far ( 3.73 and 4.10 ) needs the ring gear removed to get the damn shaft out :doah:
 
barneybasher1010 said:
I got mine here http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/index.php?manufacturers_id=21&osCsid=8edd103859c5ab17d643bb0749c74cbf. it was $270 and some change shipped to my door in Febuary of this year.
It was pretty easy to install too.
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Oh wow! thanks! Only $240 it looks like:
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...d=124&osCsid=8edd103859c5ab17d643bb0749c74cbf
I wonder why thats so much cheaper?

My steering already isnt doing so good, time for the steering box brace from ORD. My power steering pump is already squealing too
 
Smitty said:
I picked mine up from PORC too. Great people to deal with :thumb: .
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I cant believe how much cheaper it is! How long did shipping take? I want to plan this to get it done before I got to hollister hills next
 
PM CCOR, he's a vendor on here and was the same price as porc for one for my 60.
 
lochenjons said:
I cant believe how much cheaper it is! How long did shipping take? I want to plan this to get it done before I got to hollister hills next
Click to expand...

I think it took two days to be delivered, but then they are right up the road ;)
 
hijack.gif
What's the difference b/w the Powertrax and Lockright? I read the stuff at the Powertrax website. The website only mentions that the Powertrax as a more durable piece and has smoother ratcheting than the Lockright.

Is the Powertrax worth the additional $100? What do you get for the additional $$$?

EDIT: For use in a 12 bolt with 33's.

hijack.gif
 
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If you have locking hubs just weld the front. it was super cheep (free). and reliable. It is a 10b anyways.
 
pauly383 said:
And every single Dana44 I have done so far ( 3.73 and 4.10 ) needs the ring gear removed to get the damn shaft out :doah:
Click to expand...

I did one in my 44 with 4.56 gears and I had to pull the ring gear.
 
I bought mine from 4wheel warehouse or driveline warehouse?????or something like that. They have a 2 or 3 page advert in Petersons. It was $190 I think. was a while back. That was for a 12 blt rear and is still doing good. (make sure you get one of their hardened shafts). You will have to remove gears to do the front as said previously.
 
AZ79K5Project said:
View attachment 48014
What's the difference b/w the Powertrax and Lockright? I read the stuff at the Powertrax website. The website only mentions that the Powertrax as a more durable piece and has smoother ratcheting than the Lockright.

Is the Powertrax worth the additional $100? What do you get for the additional $$$?

EDIT: For use in a 12 bolt with 33's.
Click to expand...

You get synchros and no noise when going from lock to unlock . Really only need that for the vehicles the wife drives , real men like some noise :D

I want one of the quiet ones for my Chevelle :bow:
 
pauly383 said:
You get synchros and no noise when going from lock to unlock . Really only need that for the vehicles the wife drives , real men like some noise :D

I want one of the quiet ones for my Chevelle :bow:
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
ssped said:
If you have locking hubs just weld the front. it was super cheep (free). and reliable. It is a 10b anyways.
Click to expand...

I wouldnt recommend welding a front 10 bolt. They just cant handle the abuse. My brother snapped a 10 bolt shaft in my truck the other week with my lockright. I would be concerned about breaking the carrier with a welded front 10B.
-Harrison
 
Yeah you'll go through enough shafts with a lockright anyways (if you drive like me:haha:), I wouldn't weld it.
 
Ok I am a dumarse and should have consulted here 1st. I am totally not happy with welded gears on a 10b. It just feels weak like I will break it and you cant drive around with it locked at all. I am goin to swap open spiders back in till I can get a 60 or a lockrite.

P.S. will a np208 hold up to all 4 wheels locked together? or one front wheel unlocked?
 
TTT.

Well, So I am wondering if a 208 will hold together with 1 front wheel locked and locked spiders. Ira used to unlock 1 hub! can you do that with a 208 and keep it together?

Did we ever find the cheepest deal on a lockrite?
 
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