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Ac compressor advise

mrgoodwrench

mrgoodwrench

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Last year replaced all ac lines. All ac o rings. And orifice tube. Also new reciever drier. Factory condenser and both evaporators looked great and compressor seemed ok. Charges sys with r12 and it blew ice cold till this year now out of refridgerant. Inspected and found the leak coming from the compressor (r4 style) compressor was always a little noisy and now has leaked so im going to replace it. I have found several new non reman r4 compressor options and 1 new r4 style scroll type compressor. I have heard scroll type compressors can be a little poor at idle. But they are an interesting option since they are less likley to leak than origional design r4 compressors. So i have r12 to recharge and a trip coming up soon . Any recs on where to get a good r4 style compressor? Thanks mike
 
I have never liked the r4 compressor. High failure rate. If I had to I would go New only on a r4. I would look in to Sanden 508

Completed R4 to Sanden 134a AC Compressor

Another project that took some time from start to finish was my complete R134a upgrade. We all know that trying to retro-fit 134a in an existing, old and aging R12 system is not that efficient for us folks in the South. My R4 compressor & condenser struggled and it was time to do it properly...
ck5.com ck5.com
 
Wes Harden said:
I have never liked the r4 compressor. High failure rate. If I had to I would go New only on a r4. I would look in to Sanden 508

Completed R4 to Sanden 134a AC Compressor

Another project that took some time from start to finish was my complete R134a upgrade. We all know that trying to retro-fit 134a in an existing, old and aging R12 system is not that efficient for us folks in the South. My R4 compressor & condenser struggled and it was time to do it properly...
ck5.com ck5.com
Click to expand...
Will the 508 work with r12 and the factory condenser? Also i have front and rear ac will the 508 have enough output for that?
 
So I just put the a6, very of the 508 on my sub with dual air using r12. Performance below 100 ambient is acceptable. Over 100 at lower rpm below 2500 it takes awhile to cool down. Highway speeds will freeze you out.
 
Wes Harden said:
So I just put the a6, very of the 508 on my sub with dual air using r12. Performance below 100 ambient is acceptable. Over 100 at lower rpm below 2500 it takes awhile to cool down. Highway speeds will freeze you out.
Click to expand...
It that using all stock ac system other than compressor?
 
Yes cleaned and flushed oem condensor, new accumulator,
New r12 orfice tube.
Rear air was dealer add on. In 1980.
I had put a remand a6, but front seal leaked out r12 in 1 day.
So I got Four Seasons 58098 from rock auto, same internals, so I am told, as the sanden 508.
Been on there since middle of June. @ 3k miles since.
 
So the 508 is 8.4 cubic inches and an R4 is 10 ci, an A6 is over 12 ci.
If your R4 was doing the job I think the 508 will
 
Wes Harden said:
So I just put the a6, very of the 508 on my sub with dual air using r12. Performance below 100 ambient is acceptable. Over 100 at lower rpm below 2500 it takes awhile to cool down. Highway speeds will freeze you out.
Click to expand...
Where are you guys scoring the R-12? I have a stash but would love to get more.
 
Yeah I have a stash. None to be had, can't even score in Mexico any more
 
Good timing! I have maintained a "stock" system for decades with a couple of R-4 compressors. Original (?) got noisy, but I lived with grumbling noise for a few years. When I went from V-belt to serpentine a good used R-4 went in. Did have to replace the body seals on that once and eventually it got noisy as well. Evap and condenser are 1985 stock. Only upgrade is electric fans.

The key to the great performance over the years was to use hydrocarbons, NOT crappy R-134 (search my threads if you want more info). A month ago I put in the SCROLL COMPRESSOR, fully knowing it's tiny and the smaller pulley only gets you back like 1/3 of what was lost in displacement. But now I live in the glorious North. The scroll compressor is silent, as advertised, and you can't feel it kick in like the big R4, so I'm saving gas? It does not make my family reach for sweatshirts like the big compressor, but so far no sweating.

If I lived in Florida, no way, but here it's fine. There are 2 displacements of R-4 available and AFAIK, there is no Sanden or similar as big that goes in with bolt-in mods. Some go to the newer parallel flow condensers for the efficiency, but they aren't as big as the original, so should only be like 5% more effective, if extra shrouding is added. Plus, you can never back flush a parallel flow.
 
I was wondering why the sanden 5 cylinder was shown as larger then the 7 cylinder, well it isn't. According to Sanden info the sd7v16 is 161.3 cc which is 9.8 ci dam close to R4.
get the 7 cylinder. I haven't decided if the parallel flow condenser is a good up grade or not. I suppose the tube and fin that was oem could cause higher pressures. My high side tap is after the condenser, would take some fabrication to find out. The only reason I think of to change condenser is to get a bigger one for r134a, but the oem in our trucks is pretty dam big, could you get a bigger one to fit ?
Also has anyone tried to get a new condenser for our trucks lately ? Most places I have search show out of stock and unknown when available.
 
The AC system in the C10 is factory and we just charged it with R134. Works well enough for me. Probably helps that it's just a regular cab so not much area to cool. My biggest regret is replacing the compressor with another A6. Wish I would have upgraded to a newer style. It really draws down the engine.
 
It is less, but still noticable. At least in overdrive, probably wouldn't notice in 3rd.
 
Since the early 90's cars have turned off the compressor at WOT. You could probably emulate this with a vacuum switch and relay...
 
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