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Ac compressor advise

I converted my '90 over to the 7 piston Sanden. Poor description on the website got me a Chinese knock-off. The guy did offer to take it back and sell me an actual Sanden, but promised that he had good results with the cheap one. So far it is doing well for close to 3 years, but I don't drive it enough.
I installed the parallel flow condenser and a Ford orifice tube, charged it with 134. It does well in the front seats of a black Jimmy. Wheeling with the windows down in 98* heat is acceptable too.
I have no idea if it would cool a suburban. I am just glad that it has worked for more than one year.
 
Big thing with going to R134 is having enough condenser area. Thought there was a thread in here someplace talking about various mfg/part number for larger units.
 
bradshawtech said:
Where are you guys scoring the R-12? I have a stash but would love to get more.
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R12 is still produced, just not sold to the public. I get it at the store (I have a refrigerant license)

I can get you a brand new, sealed 30lb tank for $300. Two available right now. But pickup only in San Diego, cannot ship.

For some reason, R12 doesn't make it to the auto industry anymore, but sold regularly to HVAC and refrigeration techs.

In refrigeration, it is more common to use "HOTSHOT2" as R12 replacement at 1/3 the price. I don't believe hotshot will work on automotive cars/compressors but don't quote me on that. Refrigerators use reciprocating compressors while trucks use scroll / axial, I was taught that compressor type is limiting factor.
 
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fordsucks! said:
R12 is still produced, just not sold to the public. I get it at the store (I have a refrigerant license)

I can get you a brand new, sealed 30lb tank for $300. Two available right now. But pickup only in San Diego, cannot ship.

For some reason, R12 doesn't make it to the auto industry anymore, but sold regularly to HVAC and refrigeration techs.

In refrigeration, it is more common to use "HOTSHOT2" as R12 replacement at 1/3 the price. I don't believe hotshot will work on automotive cars/compressors but don't quote me on that. Refrigerators use reciprocating compressors while trucks use scroll / axial, I was taught that compressor type is limiting factor.
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If a brother were to be in San Diego, could he get with you to pick up a bottle. I usually get close to there mid January.
 
Is a refrigerant propane there 8s 2 different kinds. But yes it works well.
Many gases will have some ability to be a refrigerant, some are much better than others
 
the system on my k5 was not functional when I got it. I put a brand new Sanden (dont recall if it is a 5 or 7 cyl) and had it recharged with 134a. Probably a new stock style condenser and evaporator in it too. It works how I'd call "decent". Seems like a ton of cab to cool down for 4 little vents and it made me wonder if it was ever that good from the factory. It was however a VERY hot summer up here in NE oregon. we hit 119 once.
 
Wes Harden said:
So I just put the a6, very of the 508 on my sub with dual air using r12. Performance below 100 ambient is acceptable. Over 100 at lower rpm below 2500 it takes awhile to cool down. Highway speeds will freeze you out.
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Wes, I realize this is an Old Post but I'm having the same problem and my r4 compressor is new. Does this 508 bolt directly in where the R4 was ?
I started out with a 4 months leak and replaced everything including o-rings and hoses and I still have a 4 month leak :( 3 shops have looked at it in The last 5 years, as have I, and we cannot find the leak.
 
Looking at my old post I mis type the model number it was 4 season 58098.
No this model compressor will not bolt in.
Slow leaks ate troublesome.
I recommend using a uv dye, black light and protective glesses to find.
I suspect you see evidence
Of the compressor front seal leaking.
What year,eng and belt style do you have? I'll find a kit for you to consider with the sanden style compressor
 
Wes Harden said:
Looking at my old post I mis type the model number it was 4 season 58098.
No this model compressor will not bolt in.
Slow leaks ate troublesome.
I recommend using a uv dye, black light and protective glesses to find.
I suspect you see evidence
Of the compressor front seal leaking.
What year,eng and belt style do you have? I'll find a kit for you to consider with the sanden style compressor
Click to expand...
I had soooo much dye and bought a super brite uv flashlight, I've used both for 5 years or so, trying to find this leak. And I'm guessing the shops used the same technique.
I just put new o-rings on everything and pulled a vacuum that only held 24 hours. :( these leaks are a pain in the arse.
The engine is an '88 5.7 and it's currently using the R4 compressor.
The compressor is on the top drivers side.

20250524_180421.jpg
 
If the dye isn't showing chances are its the evaporator.
Remove the blower resistor from the evaporator box, and use light through the hole.
 
The entire system was replaced 5 years ago, but the leak continued. Which tells me me didn't replace everything. But did pull the heater box apart and replaced the evap.
Later, the dryer, condenser and compressor.
Theres been oil dye located in so many spots... But several shops and i, all worked on it, so it's been tough to tell what was dripped by humans, and what were leaks.
I'm reaching a point of buying all new ac system and starting over :/
And I've never cared for the R4 compressor anyway, so that other, being more efficient, sounds like a good component to add the my list
 
Holey76 said:
And I've never cared for the R4 compressor anyway, so that other, being more efficient, sounds like a good component to add the my list
Click to expand...
The high failure rate of the R4 is why I went to the Sanden style in my '90 Jimmy.
 
Holey76 said:
I'm planning on going that route.
I understand some of those are 7 piston, some are 5.
I'm going to guess the 7 piston is for dual control Burb's and vans ?
Mine is a K5.
Click to expand...
I bought a 7 piston to get the most CFM, which seems to be good at low rpm to help compensate for the lower rating when compared to the R4.
I doubt that there is a large price difference for the 5 piston, but I never looked because of wanting more CFM.

I just looked at my previous post, which was in '21. My system is still working well as of a month ago. So that's 3.5 more years on it, with lots of time sitting.
 
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