but I don't agree with your calculations of what the temp/pressure should be. If your condensor is at the same temp as the outside air, little heat transfer will happen! The hotter it gets, the more heat is transferred out of the car.
Read it again......
Now if your reading is about 155 psi that would = 114 degrees condensing.
subtract 20 degrees subcooling and you end up with 94 degrees.
At 155 psi the gas temp is 114 degrees.
If it is 94 degrees outside you will be rejecting 20 degrees of heat.
The subcooled condensed refrigerant leaving the condenser will be 94 degrees or close to it ( no condenser is 100% efficient )
The BEST you could hope for is 20 degrees of heat rejection,
but as inefficient as car condensers are you would be good to get 8-12 degrees, so thats why car a/c head pressures tend to run higher.
Now when I size a refrigeration rack for a grocery store I work with the total BTU's that all of the compressors on the rack combined will pump.
Example:
8 compressors with a combined capacity of 1,200,000 Btu's @ 120 degrees
condensing and a -20 degrees suction.
I would then size my condenser with a heat of rejection factor based upon
10 degrees T/D or 15 degrees T/D depending on a few other factors (Type of refrigerant,,mechanical subcooling etc.)
The condenser would need to be able to reject the 1.2 million BTU's as well as the heat of compression ( from the compressors ) on a 120 degree day.
A condenser of this size is huge,,8ft wide X 24 ft long with 10-12 1 HP fans on it. So you can see how a small car a/c condenser will struggle to reject it's heat in such a small size.
Ever notice how much better the a/c works in a car when you drive into a rainstorm ?
Two things happen,,the condenser now being cooled with rainwater, is able to reject about twice as much heat,,,plus the load on the evaporator is reduced as the exterior of the car is now being cooled off by the rain also.
It's all about heat transfer.....