32 is to cold the evap will turn into a block of ice. Chance to crack when that happens. I hope you adjusted it to @ 42*, what was outside temp when you took that pic ? What device in your system is increasing the pressure.
CK5
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I don't think you have to be as warm as 42, but 32 is too cold. Granted, that's with fan on low and other optimal conditions, but that can be replicated on long drives. I've never heard of an evap cracking, but I did experience a stuck pressure switch once. The evap did turn to a block of ice so that all airflow stopped and after turning off the compressor and running the fan my truck looked like a racehorse for 10 minutes, but no harm was done.
What size Orifice, color or which Furd orifice sould be used with R134a.
It can happen, esp if the user doesn't know enough shut off, gotta be one of the worst ac jobs today, replacing the evaporator. we have had 25 to 30 2011 f250sd's core go bad. few civic. so this summer, outta 544 vehicles our shop of 4 techs responsible for, only 1 a/c system failure. 2018 Volt blew Hi side line at Compressor.
MACS certified in 1990. learned automotive A/C work in AZ in the mid 80's been doing this a long time.
ok so got the gauges in yesterday and was able to hook them up and take a read. This is the reading I got after letting it run hooked up for about 10 minutes. Outside temp was about 90 degrees.
Air coming out of the vents registered at 16.5 degrees C based on the temp gun i used.
Any initial thoughts?
Air coming out of the vents registered at 16.5 degrees C based on the temp gun i used.
Any initial thoughts?
So does the radiator fan(s) turn on whenever the compressor is running? What speed is the blower fan on in this picture? I'm thinking it's on high to get 16.5 fake degrees (i.e. 62 real degrees). Basically the system is working, but you'll have to get the low side down a bit to really work well. A temperature drop of 28 degrees is within the range of a working R-134 retrofit system on non-recirc and fan on high. That doesn't mean it can't work better.
Note that the gauge tells you the temperature of the evap inlet (about 42F). If the outlet of the evap feels about as cold as the inlet, the charge is probably correct. Is the line from the evap to the compressor cold and sweating? Is the compressor cycling or staying on all the time you're parked? To check the recirc mode, you can take off the passenger side kick panel inside and have a look. To check the blend door, just remove the glove box, cycle the thing between cold and hot and make sure the door is traveling full range. It's common for the plastic clip on top to break and then you get heater core air in with your cold air.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ac-c...vent-temps-steam-shooting-out-my-ears.321341/
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/anyone-know-about-ac-actuator-door-clip.339067/#post-4043233
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-c-question-90-k5.327131/
Note that the gauge tells you the temperature of the evap inlet (about 42F). If the outlet of the evap feels about as cold as the inlet, the charge is probably correct. Is the line from the evap to the compressor cold and sweating? Is the compressor cycling or staying on all the time you're parked? To check the recirc mode, you can take off the passenger side kick panel inside and have a look. To check the blend door, just remove the glove box, cycle the thing between cold and hot and make sure the door is traveling full range. It's common for the plastic clip on top to break and then you get heater core air in with your cold air.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/ac-c...vent-temps-steam-shooting-out-my-ears.321341/
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/anyone-know-about-ac-actuator-door-clip.339067/#post-4043233
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-c-question-90-k5.327131/
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Yes rad fan kicks on with the AC. Blower fan is on high. How much is a bit to get the low side down to? 30? Assuming that means I need to vent out the coolant a little bit to get that down? No. the line from the evap to compressor was not cold and sweating. The compressor was staying on the whole time I was parked.
You think the first thing I should do is work on getting the low side down?
If that was idling, below 1000 rpm, 40 is not uncommon. Hold the rpms up around 1500. If the low side drops to around 30 is good. If rpms doesn't improve low reading, put the box fan in front and 1500. See what that does.
Condenser is newish? Any bent fins, debris ?
The bigger diameter hose is the one should be cold. At least at accumulator.
Condenser is newish? Any bent fins, debris ?
The bigger diameter hose is the one should be cold. At least at accumulator.
4X4ForDad
Registered Member
You took off the mechanical fan and replaced with electric, correct? There is no air flow thru the radiator/condenser until the electric fans come on at lower speeds. The electrical signal is produced to turn them on one of three ways. Temperature sensor in the radiator, signal from stock A/C system to run the fans while the A/C is on or a manual switch inside the car. Usually the manual switch is for an auxilary fan to be used in conjunction with the stock mechanical fan.
IF the fans come on when you turn on the ignition (cold) you may have a bad temp sensor or it is wired directly from the ignition to the fan relay(s) keeping the fans on all the time. If your A/C is on at least one of the fans should be on when you start the car to cool the A/C condenser. The switch that usually controls this action is on the A/C accumulator to the radiator fan relays you installed with the electric fan conversion. As always, check a reliable repair manual to make sure of the location of this switch for your model.
IF the fans come on when you turn on the ignition (cold) you may have a bad temp sensor or it is wired directly from the ignition to the fan relay(s) keeping the fans on all the time. If your A/C is on at least one of the fans should be on when you start the car to cool the A/C condenser. The switch that usually controls this action is on the A/C accumulator to the radiator fan relays you installed with the electric fan conversion. As always, check a reliable repair manual to make sure of the location of this switch for your model.
AZK5
1/2 ton status
With everything running and the engine idling check your voltage at the battery. It should be near 14 volts, unless you have an aftermarket alternator it's probably not. If the alternator isn't putting out enough current at idle the voltage will drop and your fans will run slower, including the blower blowing the cold air into your cab. You need a lot of air flow through the condenser. I have a 7 blade, 17" mechanical fan off of a 1 ton and a shroud on my K5. It'll just about blow a wrench off my air cleaner. The AC blows cold air at idle at 115 degrees in AZ. I have R134A, Autozone replacement AC components, Proform 100 amp alternator.
To go along with that, what is the idle speed with the A/C running? I haven't seen it discussed yet in this thread, but a little bump in idle speed can help a lot with alternator voltage and refrigerant flow. Is the little idle kick-up solenoid on the throttle present and does it work?
