CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

AC vent

4X4HIGH

1 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Dec 14, 2001
Posts
22,423
Reaction score
662
Location
Fremont, CA.
It's been a long time since I've had to work on my own rig but my center AC vent on the dash board is frozen in the open position and my question is, can the vent be removed from the front of the dssh or do I need to remove the dash pan and remove the vent from the backside? Once the vent is out I will soak the vent and take it apart and clean and lube it properly then reinstall. I'm hoping I don't need to remove the dash pad as my gauge cluster is a mother to remove since I installed all the Autometer gauges years ago.
 
It's been a long time since I've had to work on my own rig but my center AC vent on the dash board is frozen in the open position and my question is, can the vent be removed from the front of the dssh or do I need to remove the dash pan and remove the vent from the backside? Once the vent is out I will soak the vent and take it apart and clean and lube it properly then reinstall. I'm hoping I don't need to remove the dash pad as my gauge cluster is a mother to remove since I installed all the Autometer gauges years ago.

Which AC vent are you talking about? For the one above the radio, you do not have to remove the dash pad but you do have to remove the gauge cluster bezel.
 
I had my center vent wedged with a piece of cardboard for years. Messing with my ac controls, removed the dash bezel, in between brain farts, I discovered I could actually adjust it enough to not need the wedge. You should be able to access what you need with a little tinkering.
 
Guys, I'm well aware of the vents wanting to '"droop" and I addressed that years ago. My current issue is the vent "vanes" are frozen so I cannot close the vent. My only question was if the vent can be removed from the front or if they need to be removed from the back side. I will be addressing this issue later this week. I am currently working on the more important issue of getting my winch back on and hooked up and working again before my next cmping trip in 3 weeks.
 
The rear housing that the duct or hose attaches to unbolts from the back, allowing the whole inner assembly to fall out. There are little clips in that inner assembly that let you swap the vane portion from one to another.
 
Guys, I'm well aware of the vents wanting to '"droop" and I addressed that years ago. My current issue is the vent "vanes" are frozen so I cannot close the vent. My only question was if the vent can be removed from the front or if they need to be removed from the back side. I will be addressing this issue later this week. I am currently working on the more important issue of getting my winch back on and hooked up and working again before my next cmping trip in 3 weeks.

I know what you mean, the left-right flaps are stuck. All it takes is one stuck or broken flap, and the rest won't move.


Yes, those vents must be removed from the back. The vents are secured by 10mm fasteners that cut into a plastic shaft, i'm sure there's a name for that style of fastener.

Order new vent for $15, takes 30 minutes to replace
 
Those fasteners are called "Pal Nuts"...pal nuts.png

Sounds a bit :sign9:....but that's what they named them..:crazy:
 
There you go LOL. I need some more pal nuts in my life.

seriously though, I mean that is the dumbest fastener ever. You get two or three uses out of it and then its ****ed - stays loose or no longer grips at all
 
Every encounter with those I have had wasn't good--on body emblems especially,they put them on fragile die cast or plastic studs made to the emblem,to hold the emblem on,99% of the time they twist off instead of the nut unscrewing..:angry1:..now your limited to using adhesive or double faced tape to put the emblem on with,or buy a costly aftermarket replacement if one exists..

I use barrel clips if I manage to get an emblem off without the studs busting off,but they can be a "one time only" fastener too--they bite into the stud and if you attempt to pry the emblem off at a later time,chances are good the studs wont survive--but barrel clips are much easier on square body front fender emblems,GM put them on with pal nuts factory before the fender went on it seems--my hands looked like I put them in a meat grinder after trying to unscrew or tighten pal nuts in that location..and its very hard to not break the stud while tightening the nut just snug enough to avoid rattles..with these clips you just push the emblem in and done..

barrel clip.png
 
Top Bottom