Will the ACDelco EP 381 fit onto my sending unit for a 1978 K5? Or do I need to get a complete unit for another year?
possum
possum
CK5
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ACDelco EP381 question
- Thread starter possum70
- Start date
the gm electric pumps swap around a lot on senders . but the sender has to have been for a efi intank pump to begin with .
some guys just get the 87-91 sender and don't run under 1/4 tank others do tank with baffle and sender from 87-91 .
also if your sender was NON fuel pump efi how would you put the pump on and feed it power ? ? ?
some guys just get the 87-91 sender and don't run under 1/4 tank others do tank with baffle and sender from 87-91 .
also if your sender was NON fuel pump efi how would you put the pump on and feed it power ? ? ?
Pretty sure you can get a 87-91 tank for about $120 and a sender for another $80 or so. It will be a direct drop in and no rigging.
and they will prob try and sell you a sender with pump for tbi . you can get a unloaded sender minus pump just ask .
If I haven't got the pump but only stock 1978 stuff, what's the best way to go?
You're gonna have to rig it.
Figure out a way to safely get power to the pump, and don't run it below a 1/4 tank since there is no baffle.
Not an ideal situation
Figure out a way to safely get power to the pump, and don't run it below a 1/4 tank since there is no baffle.
Not an ideal situation
What about a 97 Chevy pump and an 88-91 tank?
that's a more common approach to this.
TBI tank with a matching TBI sending unit (25 or 31 gallon) and the delco pump you mentioned.
Also you have to think of your fuel lines too. The factory 78 lines are not meant to handle the pressure a 97 pump puts out. There is lots of ways to go about this, but all I can say is when you try and throw stuff together like this with the stuff you have, you end up paying for it later on down the road when you realize you need what has been mentioned anyways. Probably best to just spend the money now and get a new FI tank with baffles (better anyways for vortec pumps so you don't run the pump dry), and the correct sending unit, throw the EP381 in there, and run your lines.
Not sure what your going for but for my ls swap I got everything in one package. part number is KIT0367 at rock auto. It comes with new straps, tank, sender and pump for an 87 for $200. I can't use the pump but it was just more convenient and less expensive for me then to piece it together.
yep.
Here are the metric to 6AN fittings on a TBI sending unit
Here are the metric to 6AN fittings on a TBI sending unit
^This. Or, if you have a pickup version, I have found out on my crew cab that the saddle tank TBI tanks do not have the threaded fittings on the end of the sender. If you have the Blazer/Burban tank, then it will be as skunked has shown above. If not, you can still get AN tube fittings and sleeves and install them while flaring the tube, then install similar adapters to shown above. Either way, you can still accomplish what you need.
This has been done many times now, don't try and reinvent the wheel...these methods work
This has been done many times now, don't try and reinvent the wheel...these methods work
looks like he bought a blazer 31 gallon TBI tank and sending unit.
Yes that is what I bought and for convenience again, I bought a kit that included all the fittings, 25' of fuel line and the filter from Summit (tnk-ls-line-kit) for around $250. I may have overpaid a little for all of that but after shipping from multiple sources it was about the same. I got the walbro 255 pump for mine though. If i got something wrong let me know. I don't want to be passing along bad info.
...don't want to install the wrong parts either.
...don't want to install the wrong parts either.
you'll probably still need those adapters that I posted above, they're specific metric to AN fittings. I'm not sure what fuel line and fittings you bought but those are 6AN fittings that I posted.
The kit has the 6AN fittings and the one for the fuel rail. I had a list of part numbers for the russel fittings I would need that I obtained from posts on here and other sites but most of them did not include quantities for the fittings. Before I bought the kit I matched the individual parts to the ones on my list.
here's the list of parts included
* Fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter combination
* 25 ft. of -6 AN twist-lock fuel line
* Six straight -6 AN straight twist-lock fittings
* Two 1/4 in. NPT to -6 AN straight fittings
* Three 3/8 in. female quick-disconnect to -6 AN male fittings
* 5/16 in. female quick-disconnect to -6 AN male fitting
I think the two 1/4 in NPT fittings will not work. They are the ones for the sending unit and the kit uses those two for a specific unit. I will have to replace those two with the ones you have pictured. The rest are to work with a single fuel inlet on the engine and the filter provided.
* Fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter combination
* 25 ft. of -6 AN twist-lock fuel line
* Six straight -6 AN straight twist-lock fittings
* Two 1/4 in. NPT to -6 AN straight fittings
* Three 3/8 in. female quick-disconnect to -6 AN male fittings
* 5/16 in. female quick-disconnect to -6 AN male fitting
I think the two 1/4 in NPT fittings will not work. They are the ones for the sending unit and the kit uses those two for a specific unit. I will have to replace those two with the ones you have pictured. The rest are to work with a single fuel inlet on the engine and the filter provided.
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Yeah so you'll need those metric adapters to go from the sending unit to 6AN
I must have been editing while you were posting.
Just for reference as to what I was mentioning above, here is what mine was with the truck saddle tank TBI unit that does not have threaded fittings on the ends like the burban/blazer tanks
showing the tubes and sleeves with the flaring
showing the adapters hooked up to the sleeves
Now, there are a couple difference versions of these sending units. Some have longer ports that extend past the actual sending unit farther than what you see above. I would recommend if you are going this route to find one of those units (I found one on rock auto). It makes it much easier to cut and flair the line. I actually had to get the different sending unit after this picture above as the only way I was able to flair these lines is to bend them straight up, cut, flair, then bend back down. But in doing so it created a very small crack in the metal at the bend which leaked. Then I found the other sending unit on rock auto that makes it easier to cut/flair (link to that sending unit below). Live and learn with that one,
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=972608&cc=1166273&jsn=415
So now my sending unit looks like the above pictures but with the sending unit linked directly above. Don't think you guys are going the same route as me...but knowledge is power, haha
showing the tubes and sleeves with the flaring
showing the adapters hooked up to the sleeves
Now, there are a couple difference versions of these sending units. Some have longer ports that extend past the actual sending unit farther than what you see above. I would recommend if you are going this route to find one of those units (I found one on rock auto). It makes it much easier to cut and flair the line. I actually had to get the different sending unit after this picture above as the only way I was able to flair these lines is to bend them straight up, cut, flair, then bend back down. But in doing so it created a very small crack in the metal at the bend which leaked. Then I found the other sending unit on rock auto that makes it easier to cut/flair (link to that sending unit below). Live and learn with that one,
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=972608&cc=1166273&jsn=415
So now my sending unit looks like the above pictures but with the sending unit linked directly above. Don't think you guys are going the same route as me...but knowledge is power, haha
