That's what I meant--wont be looking at it till spring though--maybe never!...long as it keeps running,I'm not going to touch anything --the old saying my dad was fond of "If it ain't broke,don't fix it" is true..
I should have listened to him more when I was young,and "knew it all"..
On the plus side, you don't hafta take off the injector lines to swap intakes. There are no oil/water gaskets to mess up. It's a pretty low-risk endeavor. Whether it's worth the time is another matter, but disconnecting the EGR/EPR solenoids is a 5-second affair.
If you're wanting to fully remove injector lines to redo the valve cover gasket (you can bend the lines out of the way but it's less than ideal), you will have the intake off anyway. At that point it would be no extra work at all.
You mean this thing? This is how the turbine gets attached, it is not used for N/A operation. J-code engines came with the same air cleaner assemblies as C-codes.
Be careful what you buy, as that 6-bolt top will not attach to a J-code manifold without modifications. It is a 6.5 part and the manifold mounting surface is different.
This is what C-code and J-code manifolds look like. Aside from the EGR passage & valve, they are very similar. In this case, the J-code is an '82 or '83 as it has the mounting boss for the secondary fuel filter at the rear (84+ rigs have only one filter so this boss was eliminated on later models).
The 6.5 manifold, pairing with that "hat," looks like this. The center 2 studs share the same spacing, but aside from that the mounting surface has a very different, non-round shape.
The mounting surface is also most of an inch lower than the 6.2 manifolds. I installed one of these, mated to my old round air cleaner (via the 2 center studs), and wound up needing to clearance the air cleaner so it didn't contact the injection pump. It's not actually touching, but this is after adjusting it a bit.
And as I noted above, the 6.5 manifold has no CDR ports, so mine now vent to atmosphere. Definitely not great, but I still haven't talked myself into adding the turbine setup yet. It has deposited a thin layer of rust-proofing oil on the fender over the last few thousand miles.
), I opted to bypass it and simply run the primary 10-micron filter. This is what GM started doing in '84, so I'm not overly concerned about it. As far as I can tell, GM only used the dual filters as a response to the horrible experience they had with the Olds 350 diesel (one of the several recurring warranty issues on those engines was IP failure due to contaminated fuel). After a couple years they dropped it, and after a few more years they eventually got rid of the Water In Fuel warning light, too.
