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Adjustable proportioning valve for disc brake swapped 14FF questions.

You may be right--according to this chart,1/4" tube thread pitches are 7/16 x 24 TPI,but I recall selling adapters that had 7/16 x 20 TPI too..

If they wont thread in with your fingers,don't use a wrench to crank them in!..:eek:..tube thread pitches.png
 
diesel4me said:
You may be right--according to this chart,1/4" tube thread pitches are 7/16 x 24 TPI,but I recall selling adapters that had 7/16 x 20 TPI too..

If they wont thread in with your fingers,don't use a wrench to crank them in!..:eek:..View attachment 229592
Click to expand...
Most were 1/4 & 3/16 but had the adapter fittings. The M\C's weren't the right size to just run actual line nut size....
 
cuervo said:
I'd gladly trade my 14bff w/detroit and disc brakes for a like axle with the old drums on it. The rear disc conversion just isn't that nice on the street and the ebrake is useless.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've never hard anyone state that they preferred the drums.
Anyone else prefer drums, or regret doing rear disc for dd/street use rig?

I do understand the ebrake thing though.
 
Drums(setup and working correctly) offer more breaking surface than discs. Discs are simpler and better at self cleaning in mud and snow and also cool down faster plus easier to service. It's hard to do a disc conversion and get the whole system working like a factory disc/drum setup without a lot of work and parts changing. I like mine but it does not function as well as a factory disc/drum setup as far as brake balance. It will lock all four and I don't have to worry about it holding me on a steep hill but a factory disc/drum setup working good and all new parts prob would too.
 
Ned Kelly said:
Interesting. I've never hard anyone state that they preferred the drums.
Anyone else prefer drums, or regret doing rear disc for dd/street use rig?

I do understand the ebrake thing though.
Click to expand...

Neither is bad. And the normal 14BFF drum setup, with the drum behind the hub, is stupid from a maintenance standpoint. But unless you're wanting one of the specific benefits mentioned above, why would you want to gut out a nicely matched factory setup and start tinkering your way back toward the balance you originally had?

I prefer the removable drums as they are easy and cheap to maintain, and they work with the stock hydraulics. Installation was easier, cheaper, and much less finicky than if I had gone for a disc conversion.

I probably will still add an adjustable proportioning valve to my Blazer, as the rear wants to lock up too quickly. On the Suburban it came out quite nicely with no mods. Not sure why they were so different.
 
I used a later model axle because I wanted the e-brake. None of the bolt on kits offered what I thought was acceptable e-brake.
 
Hi guys I am sales/ purchasing at Classic Tube. we sell a brass stock type brass valve for disc/disc bolts right in with no reflaring of the lines. The Wilwood valve is a great looking and functioning unit but would require flaring or adapters. Our trucks used 3/16 for the front lines and axle lines, and ran 1/4 from the m/c to the valve and valve to rear hose. Any brake tube related questions feel free to ask!! Also happy to offer a discount if you mention the forum.
 
My only gripe about OEM drum brakes is they tend to lock the rear wheels up every morning upon the first stop,especially if its been rainy or damp out,or slushy...GM must use some extremely grabby mettalic brake shoes that rust up overnight and cause this...after a few stops,and the shoes dry out or the rust on the drums gets rubbed off,the brakes work normally..
Replacing the shoes has usually eliminated the grabby brake syndrome for me,but not in every case..

I haven't seen the need to "upgrade" to rear disc brakes,the drums work well enough for me,and I have a hard enough time keeping the stock e-brake working to pass inspection,don't need more hassles in that department..
 
cuervo said:
I'd gladly trade my 14bff w/detroit and disc brakes for a like axle with the old drums on it. The rear disc conversion just isn't that nice on the street and the ebrake is useless.
Click to expand...

This thread is exactly why I still have the drums on my 14ff. Seems like a rabbit hole nobody knows exactly how to get out of. Having said that, if there was a guaranteed answer to this, I'd jump on it because the drums are so stupidly heavy.
 
when I used to plow with my 3/4 tons, I plumbed adjustable valve to the rear because the drums would lock and come around on me.
 
I have discs on the blazer, it took a bit of searching for the right master cylinder (78 K30 is what I procured) it has the larger bore to feed the disc/disc setup, but then I needed a custom length pushrod to get the pedal travel right with hydro boost setup. I also removed the factory combo valve and put the Jegs adjustable valve to the rear line. Dialed that in and they work awesome!
My 76 C30, I'm keeping all stock for proven reliability, performance and a parking brake setup.
 
Got a little update.

Picked up a T fitting for the front 3/16" hard line. Somehow I lucked out and only had to flare one line and put a new fitting on. I also felt pretty lucky because I was able to use all of the front stock lines, no cutting or anything. Just bent them carefully and they plugged right into the T fitting!
Got my splice made for the rear line. I'm using two compression fitting to join the 1/4" rear hardline together.

I would have got the rear line finished and the prop valve installed but I'm waiting on my adapter fittings from inline tube.

Last pic is the prop valve I ended up getting.

20170507_173554.jpg

20170507_173544.jpg

20170506_173703.jpg
 
Right
Compression fittings aren't made for braking systems
 
It is definitely a compression fitting.

I haven't cranked it on the lines yet. I'll go out and find a flare union to replace it with.
 
Reading through this thread makes me feel very fortunate. I have had zero problems with the rear locking up before the front.
 
Well thank you Boys and Girls! Your discussions on Proportioning valves, adjusting and non and and the thought of replacing everything from the back wheels to the firewall, has made me understand that my old drum brakes will do fine for slipping around the bee yards in wet weather! I cut my teeth on doing brake jobs on drum brakes and still have all the specialty tools needed to make it easier. Now I can use the money saved for some other goodie?
 
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