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Advantages to Manual Warn locking Hubs rather than stock auto locking hubs.

BPatrick

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This is in reference to a 1990 4X4 Blazer that I switched from auto locking to manual. When I bought this truck several years ago, the auto locking needed replaced. A friend recommended going manual as it would be cheaper and better. He's a mechanic and a 4X4 'er so I took his advice. As the truck is back from paint and assembly is moving fast, I hope I made the right decision with the manual locking hubs. What are the advantages over the auto.
 
This is in reference to a 1990 4X4 Blazer that I switched from auto locking to manual. When I bought this truck several years ago, the auto locking needed replaced. A friend recommended going manual as it would be cheaper and better. He's a mechanic and a 4X4 'er so I took his advice. As the truck is back from paint and assembly is moving fast, I hope I made the right decision with the manual locking hubs. What are the advantages over the auto.

Manual hubs work autos don't

Dik
 
Manual hubs work autos don't

Dik

x2

Auto hubs are great, except that the only time you know they've failed, is at the exact moment you NEED 4WD.

There are only two types of 1973-87(91) GM 4WD owners: those who have had auto hubs fail and replaced them with manuals, and those who will in the future.
 
thanks sandawgk5,

Its good to know I did this right as I'm new to 4X4 restoration, not car restoration. I've built 4-5 hot rods and I know what I'm doing and the goal. But with these trucks I don't want to throw money away making mistakes. When I started working on cars a site like this wasn't available so I learned the hard way.
 
I had them on my GMC. They failed me twice. Once in a mud whole and then once pulling a wagon in a wet field at our farm.

During this build it got Mile Marker hubs. The K5 I recently purchased also has Mile Markers. Ive been pleased with them on the K5 so far.
 
Whole bunch of advantages using manual hubs.

You can leave the hubs locked when you are out and around and lock in the x-fer case when you need to. You are locked - no questions, no wondering, no oh sh*t moment when the auto's don't engage.
 
My guess is that most auto hubs are destroyed by operators who do not understand how they engage or think they are engaged and then put the hammer down.

For the auto hubs to lock the front driveshaft must turn. While driving down the road this is not an issue because the front tires are rolling along at the correct speed. When stuck the front tires are not moving and to engage the hubs you'll have to spin the rear tires so the driveshafts turn. The hubs now engage under load and they have to withstand the forces required to start spinning the front tires from a dead stop. If you are too aggressive with the throttle during the engagement, then bang goes a hub. Simple as that. A friend went through a couple of auto hubs that way.

Nothing really wrong with the auto hubs, but if they need replacement, manual hubs are the way to go for all the reasons already stated.
 
Great information. I locked the hubs and made sure everything worked...and it did, question though? When I turn the locks, they just turn half way but there is no click. I thought that they had to click or lock in. These turn easy and work I just thought l would feel it lock in.
 
I'm awaiting another pay check before I replace the stock auto tracks with warn's

Only reason I haven't come out of the '80s era trucks was for manual locking hubs.
 
I did have the auto locking hubs but have replaced them with the manual Warn Premium Hubs. Great choice.

To engage mine, the arrow on the lock is pointing to "free"....turn it clockwise (you should feel a small catch when it comes off "free") till the arrow lines up with "engage". It's almost a complete turn of the lock.
When you do the opposite to disengage, you should feel a small catch as the arrow on the lock lines up with "free".

I'm not sure why yours only goes half way.

Wheels
 
I'm not sure either but its apprx. 1/2 turn but it locks in the 4x4. I thought there should be a clicking in but I'm used to the autos so the manuals are new to me.
 
I'm not sure either but its apprx. 1/2 turn but it locks in the 4x4. I thought there should be a clicking in but I'm used to the autos so the manuals are new to me.

Each hub manufacturer is different. I have a set of Superwinch spare hubs I bought from Amazon. They lock in a 1/4 turn while the Warns are almost a full turn to lock them in.

FYI - Just checked Amazon - They are $35.17 with free shipping. I thought $50.00 was a pretty good price when I bought them.

CLICK - Superwinch Premium hubs $35.17
CLICK - Warn Premium 20990 - $87.24
 
I want to switch to manual hubs on my 76 K5. Is it required to get the part time conversion for my full time T-case as well? Eventually I would like to convert to part time but if I dont need to right now I will wait for more funds
 
I want to switch to manual hubs on my 76 K5. Is it required to get the part time conversion for my full time T-case as well? Eventually I would like to convert to part time but if I dont need to right now I will wait for more funds

Just my $02. There is no reason to have hubs unless you have a PT kit. You will have to either have the hubs locked all the time or the t-case locked with the hubs unlocked.

Either put the funds together to do both at the same time or buy the parts as you can and bench them until you have the PT kit and hubs.

EDIT - There are good prices on the stuff - just need to keep your eyes open and not get into a rush. (I'm talking from experience;))
 
Each hub manufacturer is different. I have a set of Superwinch spare hubs I bought from Amazon. They lock in a 1/4 turn while the Warns are almost a full turn to lock them in.

FYI - Just checked Amazon - They are $35.17 with free shipping. I thought $50.00 was a pretty good price when I bought them.

CLICK - Superwinch Premium hubs $35.17
CLICK - Warn Premium 20990 - $87.24

Dude, thanks for post that about the Superwinch hubs.. I snagged a set for my '89 burb. That is cheap($38 shipped with tax).
 
Warn make 2 different sets of locking hubs. A "standard" and the "premium" hubs. The standard set only turns about halfway from free to lock. The premiums are 3/4 turn from free to lock. I have had both, with no issues. Currently, I'm running the Premiums.
 
I have the Warn Premiums (think I paid about $100 for them). Anyhow, they turn almost a full turn from free to lock. They usually don't click into place until the tire turns a bit.
jor
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the first thing that popped into my head is that Warn Muanual lock outs are good for life. i broke one, took it back to the store i bought it, got a new one, weent to wheel that day. no money spent other than the original purchase. if you have a buddy that wheels with you, talk him into splitting a set so you you can carry 1 spare each. then you can trail fix it and go to the store when its convinient
 
I love the auto locks on my blazer. That way I always know that when I want 4wd I will be able to use it and I don't have to worry about the hubs not engaging or waiting for the transfer case to engage like in our 98 suburban.
 
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