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Aftermarket gauges

cabledawg

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I know alot of guys have aftermarket setups, but what gauges do you have and WHY? Right now I've got the stock volt, eng temp, oil press, fuel level, and speedo. I've also got a fuel press (0-100 psi soon to be replaced with a 0-15) and tach with a spot for the air press when the OBA gets finished. I'm also planning a second voltmeter for the second alternator, and a air/fuel ratio just to see what happens when I'm towing the trailer. I'm running a stick shift, so I'm not real worried about trans temp, but what else do you guys have and whats the reason for having it?
 
Sounds like you've got the basics covered. If you plan on pulling allot with the truck, I'd get an oil temp gauge.

I run the stock gauges in my K5 and K20. With the exception of an AutoMeter tach in where the fuel gauge went in the K5. In my drag car I run AutoMeter Ultra Lights. I plan on using Phantoms or Z Series in the one I'm building now. IMO, you can't go wrong with AutoMeter. Highly accurate and tons of people trust them. I don't think I've ever heard anything bad about them.
 
Where's a good place for the oil temp sender? I dont think there is enough room under the header to fit a t-fitting between the stock press sender and port. Is there anywhere else on the block that can be used?

Yeah most of the extras will be Autometer. Mostly cuz I dont want a ton of mixed looking bezels and faces, and AM has a gauge for almost every function of the vehicle. Stewart Warner is another that isnt too bad. Comparible pricing to AM just not as much selection.
 
My problem with AM (if you can call it a problem) is lack of consistency with regards to the gauge style.

For example, full sweep vs partial sweep, electric vs. mechanical, etc. I've put together a couple of "wish lists" of AM gauges and without fail, the series I'm looking at will be a mixed bag of partial vs. full sweep, with a mechanical gauge thrown into an otherwise all electic setup.
 
Where's a good place for the oil temp sender? I dont think there is enough room under the header to fit a t-fitting between the stock press sender and port. Is there anywhere else on the block that can be used?

Yeah most of the extras will be Autometer. Mostly cuz I dont want a ton of mixed looking bezels and faces, and AM has a gauge for almost every function of the vehicle. Stewart Warner is another that isnt too bad. Comparible pricing to AM just not as much selection.

A couple years ago, I put autometer sportcomps in my 86 k5. I really liked them. The only bad thing I've heard bad about AM was someone on here having problems with the pro comp liquid filled ones. To answer your question about oil temp sender, you could probably get away with putting it in your oil pan. The only problem with that though, is you probably won't get a true oil temp reading.
 
My only prob with AM was their somewhat "abandoning" of the Pro Comp line.. In other words, I couldn't/can't get an air/fuel gauge in 2 5/8".. I'd have to switch to another series...

I do remember someone saying the liquid-filleds leaked on him.. I've been running a few liquids for ages, and NEVER had a prob..

I'm not concerned about the air/fuel anymore, as I'm gonna be running Megasquirt with the LCD screen, and air/fuel is one of the functions...

list of what I run...

tach, speedo, oil pres, oil temp, dual volts, fuel, fuel pressure, water temp and trans temp...

eventually I'll add a vacuum to that mix...
 
ryoken, what did you use for the gauge mounting? Also how did you hookup the speedo? I have to replace mine (elec trans output, mech speedo) but wanted to know what parts were needed, like which speedo and adapters were needed to make it work. I like the looks of you setup, so I might start working in that direction. I know there was someone else on CK5 that went all aftermarket with a somewhat stock layout and look, but I havent been able to find the thread the pics were in.
 
chevy305 just did some whitefaces in a stock black bezel.. its been done many times in here... angle correction is where the difficulty arises..'

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181502&page=11

2 1/16 are pretty much the only way to do the stock bezel.. but almost all AM's are 2 1/16.. pro comp and a few others are 2 5/8...

my mounting is just the standard 2 "L" brackets on the back of each gauge that they come with, cuz of my custom bezel.. stock bezel, i don't know what the guys are doing..

as for speedo.. I was mechanical, so mine was simple, mech to mech... tho I do run an adapter to make the clip on GM cable work with the AM speedo.. but my speedo is like 15 yrs old... I dont think they even make that adapter anymore..

but for electric to manual, I have no clue, sorry...
 
That's another problem I have... I want my "small" gauges to all be 2 5/8". Some gauges aren't available in that size.

I'm looking at the Sport Comp series. The Sport Comp II series doesn't have anything in 2 5/8"... :rolleyes:

Even then, the Sport Comp series has a few compromises I'm not happy about. I wish they'd offer a generic set with interchangeable faces so you could piece together a complete kit with everything you want.

I want the following... Mounted in Ryoken's dash bezel:

5" in-dash
Tach (0-10000rpm)
Speedo (Electric 160mph)

2 5/8"
Left side of dash:
Fuel (Electric/Short Sweep)
Fuel Pressure (Electric/Full Sweep)
Oil Pressure (Electric/Short Sweep)
Vacuum/Boost (Mechanical/Full Sweep)

Right side of dash:
Water Temp (Electric/Short Sweep)
Trans Temp (Electric/Short Sweep)
Voltmeter (Electric/Short Sweep)
Ammeter (Electric/Short Sweep)


I don't want a 10000rpm tach. 0-6000rpm would be fine, but I can't get it in a matching series. 160mph is a bit excessive as well for the speedo, but again, no options. I could get the mechanical speedo in 120mph, but I want all electric. I'll consider mechanical if I can use it and still have a VSS of some sort in there, as I'd like to add cruise control at some point.

I wish all the small gauges could be full sweep electric... Oh well. :rolleyes:
 
I got phantoms in my k20. I have a oil temp & trans temp mounted overhead, then I have the phantoms in the dash with fuel & volt being short sweep electrics, then the 160mph 5" mech speedo, 5" 10k rpm tach, and then full sweep mechanical temp & oil pressure.

I didnt like the idea of mechanical gauges then I had a couple electrics screw up in my truck, a neighbors hotrod, and another guy I know's truck, said screw it and bought the cheaper mech gauges.

CUCV is gonna get hand-me-downs from a few other projects and random crap Ive accumulated over the years. Then if AM comes out with another series I like, it might get the phantoms out of the K20.
 
I hear ya on the tach and speedo thing. My engine is NEVER going to see above 5 grand, and if I ever see 120+ in the Burb, it'll be right after I see God..........and right before I bust one handsfree:D

I think for now I'm going hodge podge and using whatever brand and style I can find that does what I need it to do. I'll try to at least stick with one theme (so far silver bezel, white letters and black face) and hopefully all 2 1/16" width, but I really just want functional for now.
 
k20, have you or your buds had any issues with the mech gauges leaking stuff? I might go mech gauges, but I dont like the idea of stuff leaking inside the cab.
 
one of them had a problem with the oil pressure leaking, but when I looked, when he installed it, he 'creased' the tube and it started leaking, just cut the tube shorter, a new ferule and all is well. I got 10k miles on my AM's now and no leaks on mine, and none on the hotrod. Just the 1 small leak on the other truck.
 
k20, have you or your buds had any issues with the mech gauges leaking stuff? I might go mech gauges, but I dont like the idea of stuff leaking inside the cab.

The only problems with leaky mechanical gauges I've seen has been from the plastic line going into the oil pressure gauge. I ditch that right from the begining and run a copper one. If you want to get real trick, you could go with some braided stainless. The temp gauges run a probe into the fluid and have a metal line going back to the gauge. And I'm sure you know this already, but don't run a mechanical fuel presure gauge into the passanger compartment. If you do atleast use an isolator and run a non flamable liquid into the dash.
 
chevy305 just did some whitefaces in a stock black bezel.. its been done many times in here... angle correction is where the difficulty arises..'

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181502&page=11

2 1/16 are pretty much the only way to do the stock bezel.. but almost all AM's are 2 1/16.. pro comp and a few others are 2 5/8...

my mounting is just the standard 2 "L" brackets on the back of each gauge that they come with, cuz of my custom bezel.. stock bezel, i don't know what the guys are doing..

as for speedo.. I was mechanical, so mine was simple, mech to mech... tho I do run an adapter to make the clip on GM cable work with the AM speedo.. but my speedo is like 15 yrs old... I dont think they even make that adapter anymore..

but for electric to manual, I have no clue, sorry...

Here's where u can see all of it coming together:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181502&page=28
 
anyone know if they/anybody makes the a-pillar pods for the 2nd gens, if so where? my only problem i have w/mech gauges, is i don't like the idea of hot fluids plumbed into the cab w/me!
 
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