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Air Compressor regulator - where to get?

AJMBLAZER

AJMBLAZER

Better to be lucky than good.
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I have a 60 gal, 5.5ish hp air compressor. Runs on 220. Wanna say Campbell Hauser/Hausfield/Hauswhatever. About 6 years old and ran great until last year. The regulator won't turn the compressor off at 120psi like it used to. If I flip the switch to on it will just run and run and run until the overload valve blows and then the compressor will still keep running.:doah:
attachment.php

Where's a guy get another of these? I know jack about them, my roomie is convinced we can get a new one and just install it...but no clue where to get one. We checked Lowe's but only came up with low pressure units meant for wellheads and such.

Finally have the excess budget to fix stuff like this so would like to do it. Couple cars that might need a cheap paint job...:whistle:
 
They are available lots of places. I see a model number on the one you have I think.
Is it a square D? Or GE? Can't quite read it.

Most any electrical supply house that carries the brand it is can get you one.
Or, you could try here.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_42428_42428

Or here.
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Switch-Single-Stage-Dual-Stage-Compressor/dp/B0000AXCUL

Most any air pressure switch will work, as long as it has the right load rating, line fitting size, pressure rating, and, most importantly, an unloader if yours has one.

An unloader is a small lever that releases the pressure on the piston when it shuts off.
This lets the compressor start with no head pressure.
If your switch does not have one, then the new one does not need one.

Post the model number, and I'll check and see what I can find when I get back online this evening.
 
You should be able to get one from Grainger or any other industrial supply house.
 
Thanks guys. Fordum, I'll get a pic of the wording tonight.
 
So my cell camera is starting to annoy the hell out of me. I'm going to type out what I copied down. If something doesn't make sense just ask and I'll double check it:

034-0168
1 Phase Ratings
Volts FLA LRA
120 --- ---
240 24 122

on 125 psi
off 155 psi
69JG109944R
Siernens Energy & Automation
FEQ/0431

:dunno:
 
I'm at work so it comes back denied. Have to check later.
 
If you get one, let me know how that goes... In my search for used air compressors... this is a common problem and I searched for a quick fix and didn't really find anything instant... I think I could have gotten a few good deals on used compressors but passes due to this
 
That link I put up didnt work for crap:dunno:
 
I had to do this to mine, I got one from grainger, it was 30-40$. Do you have an unloader valve on your compressor? Im assuming you do, most 60 gal have them, but some of them do not. If yours does, (plastic or copper line running from inlet ball valve to pressure switch) make sure you get one that has the valve, it unloads the pressure on the compressor side of the valve that supply's the air, so the compressor doesn't have to start up with pressure in the cylinder. Mine they don't make anymore (condor mdr21), so I had to get a different one with the same specs and its adjustable now.
 
Not sure on the unloader valve, have to get better pics.
 
If it only has one pipe going to it it probably dont have the unloader I believe.
 
Little pipe going up and back. Here's pics:
 
Last edited:
What's the amps difference mean?

Hose is mounted to a fitting on the tank.
So my gauge and that silver line would just screw right onto either of those or am I needing more parts?
 
you need at least 2 ports on the switch itself, one for the guage (reuse from old switch) and one for the burst valve (reuse from old switch), the unloader valve has its own fitting on the switch itself. They seem to sell these in either 1 port or 4 port, I can see yours in the pic is a 4 port, so Id get the same thing and plug the other 2 ports like yours is already. Im not sure your continuous horsepower rating, but if its 3, id get the 26 amp one for a 30 amp circut. The 10 amp one seems a little small like a 1 or 2 hp motor. I see you have a dryer cord, Id assume its plugged into a 30 amp dryer 220 dryer circut.
 
AJMBLAZER said:
So my cell camera is starting to annoy the hell out of me. I'm going to type out what I copied down. If something doesn't make sense just ask and I'll double check it:

034-0168
1 Phase Ratings
Volts FLA LRA
120 --- ---
240 24 122

on 125 psi
off 155 psi
69JG109944R
Siernens Energy & Automation
FEQ/0431

:dunno:
Click to expand...
Yours pulls 24 amps. youll need the higher amp rated one
 
onetonbb74 said:
you need at least 2 ports on the switch itself, one for the guage (reuse from old switch) and one for the burst valve (reuse from old switch), the unloader valve has its own fitting on the switch itself. They seem to sell these in either 1 port or 4 port, I can see yours in the pic is a 4 port, so Id get the same thing and plug the other 2 ports like yours is already. Im not sure your continuous horsepower rating, but if its 3, id get the 26 amp one for a 30 amp circut. The 10 amp one seems a little small like a 1 or 2 hp motor. I see you have a dryer cord, Id assume its plugged into a 30 amp dryer 220 dryer circut.
Click to expand...
Yes, a 220 dryer circuit. Not sure on the amps but it's up there a ways.

What I was asking was will the unloader valve be on the same side as the existing regulator's?

shady said:
Yours pulls 24 amps. youll need the higher amp rated one
Click to expand...
So the 26amp one it is.
 
All the ones ive seen face the back of the regulator, I doubt its in the exact same spot, you might have to bend the line a little bit, but it will reach.
 
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