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Air conditioning

wallerus

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WTF. Why in Gods name does everyone remove air conditioning. It's a 5000 pound truck the 20 pound a/c compressor won't get you any extra mileage, and it only uses horse power if you turn it on. I see trucks that live in 115 degrees and they remove the a/c.

Completely confused.
 

Blue85

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Especially on V-belt rigs where the A/C has a separate belt. Although there's also a couple of electrical connectors that can be simply unplugged to disable the A/C. I guess I can see somebody dealing with an overheating condition and starts suspecting the condensor is blocking airflow and so on...
 

wallerus

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Mine is hooked up and works like a champ, 37 degrees on r-12. Just looking at CL (as always) and everyone pulls the a/c, leaves the evap and condenser. Maybe I'm just old (A/C was only for high dollar luxo cruisers).
 

Phil513

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My AC works, but on our super hot days, it takes awhile to cool down the whole interior of the Blazer. It's good if I'm cruising on the freeway for awhile. For a short errand, it's usually just starting to cool off by the time I get where I'm going.
 

Big Ray

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hopefully they put a parallel flow condenser on it...
 

The Griff

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I swear that I'm the only guy in my "group" that doesn't immediately rip the AC out.

I make sure that my stuff always has working AC, The Blazer needs a new compressor, since the clutch stopped engaging, but before that it would put out 42 degrees all day everyday. Although it did have a fairly noticeable power deficit with the air on.
 

Blue85

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Running R-12 or 134A?
Neither!

PICT0449.jpg
 

wallerus

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I dunno. Cool air comes out, just not super cold.
Get an A/C thermometer (or equivalent) about $4. Start truck, turn a/c on max, run truck at 1500 rpm, test output air. Now take a powerful house fan (or such) put it on boxes (or such) so that the fan blows on highest speed directly into condenser. Test output, if significant change in temp try putting a big a$$ electric fan or a double electric with one side only on during A/C mode (saves gas). If no, or very little change then you may have a significant amount of contamination or non-condensables. Refrigerant must be installed by weight. R-134 is 80% of r-12 charge. We'll say it takes 3.5 pounds, then 3.5x.80=2.8 pounds of 134a.. If you have the gauge set and a vacuum pump, or know someone that does. Change the oriface tube, and vacuum the system down to 29 inches of vacuum and let it run for an hour to get all the contamination and moisture out of the system. IF YOU DO NOT GET OIL OUT OF THE SYSTEM WHEN YOU VACUUM THE DO NOT ADD OIL. If some oil comes out the only add the same amount back in. Let the system sit with vacuum for about 5 min or so and check vacuum on the gauge. Don't forget to turn off the center valve on the manifold set. It should not have any drop in vacuum. If it does you have a leak. Recharge system with prescribed amount of refrigerant and test again.. Should be quite cool.

Sorry about the long post but a lot, if not most of the time people that do the conversion they just dump and go, and that won't work right.
 

sreidmx

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It's also a pain because if you think there is any refrigerant left, you have to use the Esther based oil or it'll turn into chlorine..
I went on the safe side even if I cleaned out the Evap and condenser really we'll
 

Phil513

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Get an A/C thermometer (or equivalent) about $4. Start truck, turn a/c on max, run truck at 1500 rpm, test output air. Now take a powerful house fan (or such) put it on boxes (or such) so that the fan blows on highest speed directly into condenser. Test output, if significant change in temp try putting a big a$$ electric fan or a double electric with one side only on during A/C mode (saves gas). If no, or very little change then you may have a significant amount of contamination or non-condensables. Refrigerant must be installed by weight. R-134 is 80% of r-12 charge. We'll say it takes 3.5 pounds, then 3.5x.80=2.8 pounds of 134a.. If you have the gauge set and a vacuum pump, or know someone that does. Change the oriface tube, and vacuum the system down to 29 inches of vacuum and let it run for an hour to get all the contamination and moisture out of the system. IF YOU DO NOT GET OIL OUT OF THE SYSTEM WHEN YOU VACUUM THE DO NOT ADD OIL. If some oil comes out the only add the same amount back in. Let the system sit with vacuum for about 5 min or so and check vacuum on the gauge. Don't forget to turn off the center valve on the manifold set. It should not have any drop in vacuum. If it does you have a leak. Recharge system with prescribed amount of refrigerant and test again.. Should be quite cool.

Sorry about the long post but a lot, if not most of the time people that do the conversion they just dump and go, and that won't work right.

Thanks for the info. I took it into a shop when I first got the truck, they supposedly checked it out and said everything was fine, and just did a recharge on it.

Since then I have picked up an AC gauge/valve set (whatever you call it), so maybe I can fiddle with it myself.
 

Big Ray

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Ray has anyone found one to actually fit the K5's yet?
I don't know. I think I am going to use one from Nostalgia Air, p.n.44-1829. The core is 17.5"x29.5", which comes out to about 516 sq inches. That should be enough for my 'burb when I put the rear air in it. They have another that is 22x22". Comes out to about 423 sq. inches, which should be overkill for a K5...maybe....

And yes, it will require some custom hoses. but it'll be worth it to me. It was rough riding home from work today, we had a forest burn going on and it irritated my copd.

Here's a condenser thread from a few years back you might want to check out.
 

nutt7

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I was about to link that thread. Mine has been in since then and blows cold in the burb, front and rear. Even in Phoenix summers, people get cold in there. Windstar fans help a lot too, especially at idle.
 
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