shackle angle is not just about a number. It depends on the arch of your spring. A flat spring can have a whole different angle than one with a good amount of arch. and a harder spring whith alot of arch would need a different angle.
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All The 52" Threads Right Here
- Thread starter mikey_d05
- Start date
shackle angle is not just about a number. It depends on the arch of your spring. A flat spring can have a whole different angle than one with a good amount of arch. and a harder spring whith alot of arch would need a different angle.
So for flex, when the spring is basically flattened the shackle should be up around 40 degrees or so? But for cornering on the road, it seems like you want the shackle near vertical at ride height, to minimize the corner sag. With a 45 degree shackle, every 1/2" the spring lengthens causes that corner to lower another 1/4". This is probably why the factory shackle angle was chosen even though here we usually call it "bad" - body roll is minimized.
I've heard a couple cases of swapping 52s in without changing the shackle angle. Apparently the flex isn't much better. So do we have any examples of changing the shackle angle on 48" springs? I wonder how much we confound the results of the two changes.
I've heard a couple cases of swapping 52s in without changing the shackle angle. Apparently the flex isn't much better. So do we have any examples of changing the shackle angle on 48" springs? I wonder how much we confound the results of the two changes.
Here is how I have read on how to determine "optimal" shackle angle. Optimum would be where you get the greatest use of the shackles available movement.
Say the fwd spring eye is your fixed point. We can only locate it in a few places. Measure the length of the main leaf of your spring. Not eye to eye, but the length the spring will be when flat.
Now take that measurement from your fixed point (fwd mount) and determine where the rear eye will be when the spring is at maximum up travel.
From this point you can determine where the shackle will be at its maximum angle during compression and adjust the shackle hangar accordingly to your shackle length.
Now with this method very flat springs will result in a different angle that arched springs, but you will get the maximum amount of use of the shackles range of motion.
With 52's you generally end up with a bit of up travel before the springs get flat and a steep ~40* static angle which results in a lot of down travel available. I imagine if you did this with 48's the same result would occur.
The stock shackle setup (probably for handling) is near vertical which provides a decent amount of up and down travel, but the down is limited by the lack of angle available for the shackle to move forward.
Just my .02
Say the fwd spring eye is your fixed point. We can only locate it in a few places. Measure the length of the main leaf of your spring. Not eye to eye, but the length the spring will be when flat.
Now take that measurement from your fixed point (fwd mount) and determine where the rear eye will be when the spring is at maximum up travel.
From this point you can determine where the shackle will be at its maximum angle during compression and adjust the shackle hangar accordingly to your shackle length.
Now with this method very flat springs will result in a different angle that arched springs, but you will get the maximum amount of use of the shackles range of motion.
With 52's you generally end up with a bit of up travel before the springs get flat and a steep ~40* static angle which results in a lot of down travel available. I imagine if you did this with 48's the same result would occur.
The stock shackle setup (probably for handling) is near vertical which provides a decent amount of up and down travel, but the down is limited by the lack of angle available for the shackle to move forward.
Just my .02
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Let's also remember that the true stock front shackle is designed for neg arch springs and the shackle moves forward with compression. So when we add lift springs or 52s we are changing how all that was designed to work...
my holesaw has evaded me so i still have my stock shackle location for my 52s. i will be moving it in the next week or so. they still flex damn good for the crappy shackle angle.
Also just a tip when you redrill for the shackle. Make the hole the larger size to fit the aftermarket DIY or ORD shackle hanger. Much easier to drill it large the first time than try to open it up later on.
Also just a tip when you redrill for the shackle. Make the hole the larger size to fit the aftermarket DIY or ORD shackle hanger. Much easier to drill it large the first time than try to open it up later on.
I'm still huffy that you can BUY them now ... I decided early on I wanted a single bolt size across the shackles, but had to build my own.
-- A
So if you want the soft spring rate of 52's for ride quality but don't need immense droop, why not just leave the shackle angle to limit droop? Then you may not need crossover or a long slip driveshaft. Or at least you can get to those later on. If the front spring eye is right under the body mount the axle isn't far from the stock location.
sure you can do that, but its like getting a built motor and putting a 1/2 throttle stop on it
edit: Never mind, all the links are dead....
Last edited:
handloader90
Building!
Sucks that all those links are dead minus the CK5 article posted first...
The only real thing I've disliked about the new format, sooooo many links posted in threads lead to a Error page.
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
I asked about that a while ago and here is the answer:
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dead-links-to-old-domain.326148/#post-3648993
Looks like it doesn't work for all the threads though.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dead-links-to-old-domain.326148/#post-3648993
Looks like it doesn't work for all the threads though.
