What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

All these 700r4 posts lately

MrSchaeferPants

MrSchaeferPants

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Posts
3,528
Reaction score
29
Location
Hot Springs, AR
Think there's a virus going around. Ran to lowes and seems 3rd and OD is done for, couldn't go over 45mph. Putzing around town, 1-2 shift and drive just great.

I'ma change my fluid/filter, check the tv cable. If it does need some major work, I gotta do some long hard thinking :doah: Only thing worth while on the Blazer is the engine, transfer and axles. Well, D door, fenders and hood and front clip are in nice shape.


Maybe time to be more serious about looking for a single axle one ton.

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/4034215801.html - still on CL, but pretty old post. 6.2 with 465 perhaps. Dunno what the gearing is, but I'd drop it down to 35s at least. IT would be for work and towing.

Or putting my 6.2 back in this http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/4101642215.html

Just just buying this http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/4030148916.html

Or finally getting another one of these http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/4089862371.html like I've wanted to for a few years and going Class 11. But that leaves me w/o a pickup or anything :)
 
Personaly i would go with the bug. but then im a vw kinda guy, have a 1982 vanagon with air cooled 2.0l dual 40 webbers, that is in a very slow rebuild. it gets about the same mileage as my k5. i bought my gf a 1989 vw cabriolet for her b-day last year.
 
That crew cab would be gone in a minute around here at that price. Especialy if it still had a 60 in it.
 
If you want to go Class 11 you should look at a standard bug, not a Superbeetle. Unlike the Super (struts), the standards front suspension (beam) is seperate from the body and can handle more abuse and larger tires etc.
 
EXJAY said:
If you want to go Class 11 you should look at a standard bug, not a Superbeetle. Unlike the Super (struts), the standards front suspension (beam) is seperate from the body and can handle more abuse and larger tires etc.
Click to expand...

Oh ya I'm familiar. Just posted that CL link, didn't even read or looked at it too closely. I'd find a 74 standard. Class 11 is MOSTLY for looks, probably wouldn't take it off road too much. Not the right terrain here. I love bajas, I don't dig the open engine bay.

Torn between a crew cab and bug. I don't often need to tow, or haul anything that big. Mostly material to build, I could always get a trailer and tow that with the wife's sport trac. Couldn't tow a damned thing with it though. That's the thing though, rarely need it, but when you do- you do.

Been turned off to Bugs since moving here, but recently found aftermarket AC systems. Basically a fully electric set up like a mini window unit. Just have to upgrade the alternator. Did spend my first summer here with no AC in the Blazer, but at least the top was off. It was also a mild summer. Don't WANT to do that again.

But I also love me some SRW crew cabs. LOVE 'EM. But that's also an older post, and I almost never see them. I also see utterly garbage VWs here for a high price. Miss WA, they were a dime a dozen.

Either way I'ma put a little money into the Blazer first, to see if it's just a plugged filter, or tv cable issue. If I do get another Blazer, which was in the cards anyway because of all the rot in mine, I'd just wait to find one in good shape, with a bad engine or something. That's why I posted 3 diesels. (well one CUCV gas conversion) #1 reason on loving CUCVs is the CARC paint generally saves the body, never had carpet inside, generally some type of rhino liner in there. So all my interior gutting is already done :)
 
Changed fluid/filter, looked pretty good actually. Not burnt, no debris. Adjusted TV cable. No go.

Debating my options. Getting it rebuilt isn't worth what's left. Looking up other square bodies in my area. There's a 700r4/208 for sale for $450 two hours away, but this is the one tranny I don't really wanna buy used from someone.

No crew cab srw right now :D
 
What the deuce. I was at the point where I put it up on CL.

For about 30 minutes. One txt asking some questions. Then it hit me.

F this noise, I'm not selling it. I'm finally at a point where I don't have to sell it. I'ma find me a doner 3/4 ton like I planned on. Put the pick up cab on, sm465, chop or build a bed to fit the K5 frame.

:woot:

And as I'm scheming. What if I built a small bed to fit, and I love that it's a K5 and not a pick up, smaller, drives around my property easier, I load firewood in it, brush, tools. What if I built a dump bed.
 
It would be easier to just put another tranny in it...

You could drop a cheap used TH350 short tail car tranny in it using the spacer block ,that will allow it to bolt up with no mods to the driveshafts or linkage--and that would probably outlast a 700R4 in used shape of unknown condition..the TH350's are more common and dont bring as high a price as a 700R4 does,and in my opinion are stronger--yes,I know some will say they suck,first gear ratio is too high,no overdrive means less gas mileage,etc..but you wont be likely to have to replace it again either unless you beat the thing mercilessly either..

I plowed with two trucks for 11 years with TH350's and only changed the fluid & filter once in both trucks--one finally lost reverse after I let it sit 6 months,then got it stuck and rocked it for a half hour before reverse just failed to engauge..and both trucks had rough lives plowing up here too,and I was surprised the tranny's held up that well,and so long..

TH400's are even better,but require a lot of mods to install in a truck that had a 700R4 or TH350.....

I'm leery of buying a used 700R4 for my diesel Burb,90% of them are out of a truck for a reason,and not just because they were "parting it out due to rust" as stated in many ads..more like they want 150 bucks for their junk core,that you wont know is "bad" till you've wasted time and cash installing it..
I'd only buy one I could test drive for several miles first--the one in my Burb works well until its driven 10+ miles,then it might refuse to back up,and overdrive wont always kick in..someone driving it "around the block" would think it was good..
 
If you are going to keep an automatic a TH700r4 is the only way to go. A TH350 sucks, but not as bad as a TH400.

Martin
 
I don't really want another auto. If I did it would be a 700r4. This one has lasted 31 years?

On the search for a 3/4 ton pick up with a bad motor or something. X/sm465 combo. If I find a good body crew cab srw, I'll toss my diesel in it. Otherwise, I want a K5 framed pick up. Cab swap with sm465, axles. Bed can come later. Well, sit on my property until I decide.

Never researched 6.2/sm465 combo until just now. Apparently only in pick ups? Either way it all bolts together, just need a flywheel/clutch, preferably an 85+ hydraulic model would be nice.
 
wasted wages said:
I second the T-350..... only way to go....:waytogo:

well,,, other than a T-400..... :woot:

700r4's big the suck.....:whistle::popcorn:
Click to expand...
I wont go as far to say the suck royally,but in stock form with the usual lack of maintenence,they'll fail a lot sooner than the old 3 speed automatics will...

Though the 2 speed Powerglide was never offered in a 4x4 version,and the garing sucks,I will say they are probably Gm's toughest automatic tranny..too bad you'd need a divorced transfer case to use one..rail dragsters used them and had air shift ,and they held up well to abuse..

If a 700R4 is taken out and rebuilt,and you use a 87 up core,one will probably outlast the truck--unless the TV cable gets screwed up,then it'll be toast in a few miles..seeing how easily those snap lock adjusting things on the cable can slip,break,or the cable itself can fray and snap,I'd call that a weak point..which is why GM decided to make them electronically controlled,I dont consider that an upgrade either really..

I'd rather have a manual trans in a way too,but GM only made one thats desireable for on road use ,as far as gear ratios..and it would entail a lot of work and new parts or mods to put one in my Burb,its barely worth putting another 700R4 or TH350 in it now..
 
diesel4me said:
unless the TV cable gets screwed up,then it'll be toast in a few miles..seeing how easily those snap lock adjusting things on the cable can slip,break,or the cable itself can fray and snap,I'd call that a weak point..which is why GM decided to make them electronically controlled
Click to expand...

That is not why they switched to electronically shifted transmissions.

Martin
 
OK,then you tell me why they did...so they could control shift points better for lower emissions maybe?..or they just wanted more electrical items to go eventually go sour and lower the lifespan of the transmissions?..maybe they didn't go electronic just to eliminate the TV cable,but
I still say the TV cable is one thing that kills a lot of 700R4's..

I've read on other transmission sites the TH350 is "no stronger than a 700R4 and you'll only save 100-150 bucks by swapping one in place over the overdrive,and lose enough MPG to make it a poor decision..

Maybe for some folks,but a guy like me who doesn't travel the interstates much at high speeds ,it wouldn't bother me not to have overdrive much..also the same site says to "never tow in OD,use the third gear position"..so isn't that about the same as having a TH350,if your not supposed to use overdrive?..kind of contradictive..

I'm sure a 700R4 will live behind any engine and take lots of abuse,IF its built properly..you'll need 1500+ bucks to have one built to that degree though,for a guy like me who just wants to drive his truck again for street uses and to plow his own yard,a TH350 in good used condition would suit me fine..
 
My experience with the 700r4 is they need good cooling. I also fried a 400 trans because I didn't chill it well enough. Putting a temp gauge on an auto trans is a real eye opener.
 
I put a 700r4 in my 95 gmc 4x4 because of the ****ty 5 speed manual that was in it. didn't what to go electronic because I would have needed computer for shift points plus they are big bucks to rebuild when they crap out.
This is what was needed and done.
1 -700r4 4x4 trans rebuilt by Pete at transmaster,man knows his stuff
2 -New tv cable and dip stick and tube
3 -New motor home converter
4 -out put gear on tail of trans--old gear will not match up to 95 t case
5 -30,000 lb gwv motor home trans cooler
6 -12ft areo quip push hose for cooler
I put a toggel switch in so I can unlock converter for towing in over drive,no more unwanted down shifts when towing.
I also put toggel switch on front diff so i can put it in low range with out having four wheel drive ,works great for backing my heavy ass trailer up the steep drive way.
I LOVE THE WHOLE SET UP---works great for heavy towing and just fine for hiway driving.
With the motor home converter it pulls like a bear when starting off with trailer.
P.S DO WHAT THE MAN SAYS---USE A COOLER,THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
Pete also warretys the trans for ever with the huge cooler.
Total cost about $1000, Would I do it again? You bet I would,it made a limp truck into a hard working REAL truck
 
bill76 said:
5 -30,000 lb gwv motor home trans cooler
I put a toggel switch in so I can unlock converter for towing in over drive,no more unwanted down shifts when towing.
P.S DO WHAT THE MAN SAYS---USE A COOLER,THE BIGGER THE BETTER.
Pete also warretys the trans for ever with the huge cooler.
Click to expand...
Trying to tow with a 700 in OD with no lockup is like asking it to fail. This is why they are trying to compensate with a giant cooler. Do you really get any better mileage scorching fluid in 4th than you would in 3rd with the converter locked?
 
diesel4me said:
It would be easier to just put another tranny in it...

You could drop a cheap used TH350 short tail car tranny in it using the spacer block ,that will allow it to bolt up with no mods to the driveshafts or linkage--and that would probably outlast a 700R4 in used shape of unknown condition..the TH350's are more common and dont bring as high a price as a 700R4 does,and in my opinion are stronger--yes,I know some will say they suck,first gear ratio is too high,no overdrive means less gas mileage,etc..but you wont be likely to have to replace it again either unless you beat the thing mercilessly either..

I plowed with two trucks for 11 years with TH350's and only changed the fluid & filter once in both trucks--one finally lost reverse after I let it sit 6 months,then got it stuck and rocked it for a half hour before reverse just failed to engauge..and both trucks had rough lives plowing up here too,and I was surprised the tranny's held up that well,and so long..

TH400's are even better,but require a lot of mods to install in a truck that had a 700R4 or TH350.....

I'm leery of buying a used 700R4 for my diesel Burb,90% of them are out of a truck for a reason,and not just because they were "parting it out due to rust" as stated in many ads..more like they want 150 bucks for their junk core,that you wont know is "bad" till you've wasted time and cash installing it..
I'd only buy one I could test drive for several miles first--the one in my Burb works well until its driven 10+ miles,then it might refuse to back up,and overdrive wont always kick in..someone driving it "around the block" would think it was good..
Click to expand...

I've never heard of the spacer deal with the TH350. School me if you would?

And sorry, these Chevy trannys are new to me. I'm used to Dodge autos... and yeah, got used to replacing those:haha:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom