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Alternate TRE's for Heavy duty tie rod???

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BXwildshot

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Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

I bought a heavy duty tierod for my D60 intending to use DRE's on the ends but now I really don't want to have to ream out the knuckles on the D60 so I would like to use regular TRE's on it , but now I don't know which ones to use in order to keep the overall length correct.I hear dodge uses the same taper , would those work and if so which ones? Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
Eric L.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

what diameter ends you using, 7/8" or 1" ??
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

My right hand end is McQuay Norris #2234R, and I believe the left hand end from them is #2233L. They are stock ends for some 3/4 ton Chevy's. The #2233L may have the stabilizer hole in it though, you may want to check that.

Harley
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

If they are the 7/8-18 thread. Use these 2 ends NAPA part #'s ES2010L and ES2010R. They are about $25 ea. That is what I used on mine and several others I have made for people (D44, 10B, & D60). No issues except they do not come with the jamb nuts. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I had a heck of a time finding those. The good news is that I found out that a lot of the old Dodge motorhomes used these TRE's and you can sometimes get them from RV repair shops /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

I'd like to find the napa that sells that moog end for $25.00, it's not around here anywhere. I don't usually find many farmers getting rid of one tons for $200 either though. darn it.

We have the jam nuts. And the ends for that matter.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

Jobber price on a Moog 1 ton end is more than $25. Your Napa must be an independant and sell something other than Moog.

Unless Napa sells Perfect Circle chassis? I'm not for sure. I know that some independant auto parts stores carry the napa logo out front but don't carry the Napa line of everything.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

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It is a good thing you are using the 7/8" shank tie rod ends as opposed to the 1" shank tie rod ends (as far as easily obtaining the correct parts) . The proper 7/8" left and right hand thread shank tie rod ends are simple to come by. When I put together my 1" shank tie rod end setup I got from Sky, the right hand thread 1" shank tie rod end is easily available, but the left hand thread 1" shank tie rod end was a different story. It took a bit of hunting and pecking (along with a couple of 9/16 washers for shimming) on Sky's part before we came up with the correct one, but the 1" shanks will make my tie rod setup just a touch beefier than the 7/8" tie rod set up; although, unless you are planning on driving head-on into boulders at 50 MPH, I am sure the 7/8" will be more than enough. After the problem of coming up with a correct left hand thread 1" shank tie rod end for my truck, I started to wonder if this is why Steve at ORD stays with the 7/8" set up on his product he offers.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

jobber price on moog at my store is less than 25 for the rh 1".... its cheaper than the 7/8"
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

Well, that's what I got 'em for /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif If you include the tax, then the price is closer to $30. Sorry, I should have stated that in my previous post. I wasn't trying to mislead anyone.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

...and the jobber accounts are tax exempt /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

[ QUOTE ]
and the jobber accounts are tax exempt

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif I need to get me one o' them "jobber accounts"! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I know I've spent a big chunk o' $$ at the local NAPA. Too bad they can't let you qualify for an account based on the amount of $$ you've spent on parts. I'd have accounts at several different stores if that were the case! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

they can ring it up under a TE cash account
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

[ QUOTE ]
TE

[/ QUOTE ]

I feel stupid asking this, but what does "TE" stand for?
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

tax exempt; sorry /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif... lol, thats what we call the shop or jobber accounts
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

We looked at the 1" shank ends but they are hard to come by and there aren't many options for length or type of end like there is with the 7/8". Other than the draglink ends with the long shank, the 7/8 stuff is (I hate to say this but here goes) mostly indestructible. Our resident wrecking crew (Beck) managed to push his 1.5 x .375 DOM tierod back to the diff cover using old used 7/8 ends with no ill effects. I've hit them hard enough with a side load to offset the shank on them and everything was still ok except the alignment, and the wheel, and the kingpin bushing. Shank size really doesn't have much to do with this comparison anyway but overall, they're good stuff.
Given all the properties of the 7/8" ends, we have no problems selling them at all.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

BTW, you DO NOT want to use draglink ends on a tie rod, they will snap if you push on them. We've been present for that and prefer that you or anyone else not have the experience.
 
Re: Alternate TRE\'s for Heavy duty tie rod???

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
and the jobber accounts are tax exempt

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif I need to get me one o' them "jobber accounts"! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif I know I've spent a big chunk o' $$ at the local NAPA. Too bad they can't let you qualify for an account based on the amount of $$ you've spent on parts. I'd have accounts at several different stores if that were the case! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

A jobber is a person that sells parts, as in, an auto part's store's cost on a particular item.

You can't open a, "Jobber account" even if you're a shop. Shops would fall into the stocking or non-stocking dealer pricing catagories or the big spenders are "master installer" pricing but nobody is going to buy parts at jobber price as there would be absolutely no profit (although with rebates and stuff you could say that there is minimal profit even at jobber, it is very minimal).

What I intended to say is that if you're buying Moog ends at STORE COST you'd be lucky to get them at $25 each. Master installer and dealer pricing is going to be higher, and retail price even higher than that.

I'll check the price sheets tomorrow if someone wants me to check a particular part number. Somebody is ripping you off if they're telling you that they're selling Moog chassis at that price, I would think. I'll certainly check the price sheets though just to ensure I'm correct.

Any of y'all can probably open an account at your local auto parts supplier and recieve non-stocking dealer pricing most likely. It will save you quite a bit of money, you can have credit at the store, and most stores will deliver to your house.

Of course this depends how far away the store is and if the manager is willing to do that--but we have many people around here that I sell parts and have them delivered to their house.

As stated above a cash account is also a possibility, you don't always have to have a charge account, you can pay by cash, check, or credit card and still get the pricing.

I'd suggest that anyone do it. It's a good idea if you're buying that many parts.

I have a charge account with my work but I never charge anything, I always pay cash/credit card. I buy parts at jobber + 12% but I cannot do it for anyone but myself.
 
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