defrost is no problem. It's the vents in the dash that face you. Simply a matter of fitting everything inside the dash and finiding the appropriate pieces to make it all work.
CK5
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Aluminum dash
- Thread starter cybrfire
- Start date
defrost is no problem. It's the vents in the dash that face you. Simply a matter of fitting everything inside the dash and finiding the appropriate pieces to make it all work.
lak2004
1/2 ton status
Got some vents headed our way to try out in the dash for fitting. If all goes well, tomorrow we should have some pics in a cab with full AC all the gauge cutouts on a removable panel along with climate controls installed and so on.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
awesome! 
Some photos of the progress.
A shot of the factory climate controls mounted in our dash and a vent mounting hole just to the left of it.
A shot of the instrument layout or should I say one of the many possible layouts. These are 2 5/8" cutouts and 5" cutouts. 2 5/8" gauges have to be offset to clear everything. Can't be stacked directly on top of each other. 2 1/16" could be stacked. Hard to see in the photos, but there is provisions for a high beam indicator light and turn signal indicators. Ebrake release is workable and can't be moved very far from this location. 2.5" hole on the bottom slope is a vent mounting hole which we are still waiting for. Pretty confident they will work without issue so we went ahead and put the holes in. Tomorrow, we'll fab up a cap to close off under the column.
vin tag hole needs an adjustment and there will be a few less defrost holes in the next revision. Some of these holes are not serving much purpose.
quick shot of the passenger side, which is actually an earlier version. Not a whole lot of changes to be made on this side. Good spots for a DIN hole and more vents and so forth. Of course the Glove box needs to be completed.
We are doing our best to accomodate all the creature comforts along with all the necessary equipment and fit it all in a nice tight package. There are alot of options and you can go crazy customizing things.
A shot of the factory climate controls mounted in our dash and a vent mounting hole just to the left of it.
A shot of the instrument layout or should I say one of the many possible layouts. These are 2 5/8" cutouts and 5" cutouts. 2 5/8" gauges have to be offset to clear everything. Can't be stacked directly on top of each other. 2 1/16" could be stacked. Hard to see in the photos, but there is provisions for a high beam indicator light and turn signal indicators. Ebrake release is workable and can't be moved very far from this location. 2.5" hole on the bottom slope is a vent mounting hole which we are still waiting for. Pretty confident they will work without issue so we went ahead and put the holes in. Tomorrow, we'll fab up a cap to close off under the column.
vin tag hole needs an adjustment and there will be a few less defrost holes in the next revision. Some of these holes are not serving much purpose.
quick shot of the passenger side, which is actually an earlier version. Not a whole lot of changes to be made on this side. Good spots for a DIN hole and more vents and so forth. Of course the Glove box needs to be completed.
We are doing our best to accomodate all the creature comforts along with all the necessary equipment and fit it all in a nice tight package. There are alot of options and you can go crazy customizing things.
StevoandaRedK5
1/2 ton status
looks fantastic Kert!
lak2004
1/2 ton status
That is looking badarse 
! I really like the look of it
! I really like the look of it
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Awesome Kert, I can't wait to pay for mine 
Wow, just wow! 
yeah looks really good
OOPS - double post
What is the possibility of mounting an "Oh sh!t" handle above the glove box? If that is possible, it may be the leverage I need to get my wife to let me buy it.
Some photos of the progress.
A shot of the factory climate controls mounted in our dash and a vent mounting hole just to the left of it.
A shot of the instrument layout or should I say one of the many possible layouts. These are 2 5/8" cutouts and 5" cutouts. 2 5/8" gauges have to be offset to clear everything. Can't be stacked directly on top of each other. 2 1/16" could be stacked. Hard to see in the photos, but there is provisions for a high beam indicator light and turn signal indicators. Ebrake release is workable and can't be moved very far from this location. 2.5" hole on the bottom slope is a vent mounting hole which we are still waiting for. Pretty confident they will work without issue so we went ahead and put the holes in. Tomorrow, we'll fab up a cap to close off under the column.
vin tag hole needs an adjustment and there will be a few less defrost holes in the next revision. Some of these holes are not serving much purpose.
quick shot of the passenger side, which is actually an earlier version. Not a whole lot of changes to be made on this side. Good spots for a DIN hole and more vents and so forth. Of course the Glove box needs to be completed.
We are doing our best to accomodate all the creature comforts along with all the necessary equipment and fit it all in a nice tight package. There are alot of options and you can go crazy customizing things.
Not that I needed it, But theese pics conviced me that I MUST HAVE ONE OF THESE!!!!!!!!!!!
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
Glad to see you're still pluggin away on this kert!
I assume the sanding/finish is to keep down glare?
Nice as always
I assume the sanding/finish is to keep down glare?
Nice as always
Glad to see you're still pluggin away on this kert!
I assume the sanding/finish is to keep down glare?
Nice as always
Helps with the glare and at the same time, some sheets currently on hand are pretty beat down. It's been a long time since we started this and sometimes that haven't handled to nicely. They definitely needed a clean up.
romeolimagolf
1/2 ton status
I wonder if you have given any thought to, after your protoype is complete, making a fiberglass mold of it. It might be cheaper/quicker/easier to reproduce in fiberglass.
No fiberglass for us.
OK, so its done!
I have some guys that have been super patient after placing a deposit to recieve the first ones produced. They are being done over the next few days.
I'll be getting some photos up tomorrow of a final rendition. Provided a few things work out that way.
Going through the myriad of options and trying to figure out where the dust has settled. We do have everything clearing a factory AC/heat box no problem.
We did switch to a weld in glove box rather than a bolt in. Much cleaner, simpler production and it was fairly easy to bolt in the dash. Again, this was done in a full cab. Doors on seat in place and the truck practically on the floor.
There of course is the removable instrument panel. It's not entirely necessary but it is nice. You can pretty much use the dash as the removable instrument panel. Install all the pieces in the dash and slip it into place. It's pretty easy to put in.
Vents for heat, AC and defrost are in and the parts have been sourced.
Instrumentation will be available but nothing on hand currently. Basically we can supply anything from a bare panel w/steering column cover all the way up to a piece complete with places for gauges, defrost, stereo, headlight switch and e-brake release. We can also do cutouts for dash vents (which we can supply, along with associated hoses and adapters), glove box including a hinged door and latch mechanism, and 12 volt outlets. We have yet to find an outlet that we like, but we're tearing our hair out looking for one.
This product is a very customizable one. We want to work with you on the details so this will be listed on the website, however, it will not be an online order piece. I'd very much prefer to speak to you about it personally and work out the details. Please understand all the details do require time to layout and produce.
OK, since the dash has been in and out of the setup truck at least 10 times, we know a thing or two about how to do it easily. Below is a detailed overview of the installation procedure.
-Cut out the old steel dash being careful to leave the vin tag and defrost vent tabs. If possible, it is easiest to leave the factory AC/heater control unit connected as well. DO NOT remove the factory steering column support. Be sure to save the e-brake release handle, plastic trim piece, and factory headlight switch if their re-use is required.
-Remove all dash vents all the way back to the air box, leaving both the floor vents and the defrost vents.
-Bolt the two aluminum dash halves together on the bench.
-Approximate the lengths of hose needed to connect your dash vents. Cut the hose to the correct lengths. Install all vents in aluminum dash except for the outboard passenger vent. Connect hoses to vents and Y pipes. Vents, hoses, y's, and airbox adapter are supplied if the dash vent option is selected.
-Install the metal DIN stereo sleeve if stereo option is selected.
-If additional wiring is to take place behind the dash, do so at this point. This would be a good time to finish up your gauge and stereo wiring and tap the factory harness for the new high beam and turn signal indicators.
-Place aluminum dash in vehicle and install the four side bolts, leaving the outside passenger vent uninstalled allows you to reach through the vent hole to install the upper passenger side bolt. After that bolt is tight, you can then install the vent.
-Using the supplied hardware, bolt the factory climate control unit into the new dash.
-Connect the stereo and slide it into the dash.
-Install the factory headlight switch, e-brake trim piece, and e-brake release into the new dash.
-Install the supplied dash vent to air box adapter, if ordered, and connect to the new vent tubing.
-Install your gauges and high beam/turn signal indicators (if ordered) into the removable gauge panel and connect them. Install the gauge panel.
-There is a mounting hole in the lower lip of the dash for the factory courtesy light. Whether or not you use it is up to you, the hole is hidden either way.
-Get off the computer, out of the garage, and go wheel your junk.
I have some guys that have been super patient after placing a deposit to recieve the first ones produced. They are being done over the next few days.
I'll be getting some photos up tomorrow of a final rendition. Provided a few things work out that way.
Going through the myriad of options and trying to figure out where the dust has settled. We do have everything clearing a factory AC/heat box no problem.
We did switch to a weld in glove box rather than a bolt in. Much cleaner, simpler production and it was fairly easy to bolt in the dash. Again, this was done in a full cab. Doors on seat in place and the truck practically on the floor.
There of course is the removable instrument panel. It's not entirely necessary but it is nice. You can pretty much use the dash as the removable instrument panel. Install all the pieces in the dash and slip it into place. It's pretty easy to put in.
Vents for heat, AC and defrost are in and the parts have been sourced.
Instrumentation will be available but nothing on hand currently. Basically we can supply anything from a bare panel w/steering column cover all the way up to a piece complete with places for gauges, defrost, stereo, headlight switch and e-brake release. We can also do cutouts for dash vents (which we can supply, along with associated hoses and adapters), glove box including a hinged door and latch mechanism, and 12 volt outlets. We have yet to find an outlet that we like, but we're tearing our hair out looking for one.
This product is a very customizable one. We want to work with you on the details so this will be listed on the website, however, it will not be an online order piece. I'd very much prefer to speak to you about it personally and work out the details. Please understand all the details do require time to layout and produce.
OK, since the dash has been in and out of the setup truck at least 10 times, we know a thing or two about how to do it easily. Below is a detailed overview of the installation procedure.
-Cut out the old steel dash being careful to leave the vin tag and defrost vent tabs. If possible, it is easiest to leave the factory AC/heater control unit connected as well. DO NOT remove the factory steering column support. Be sure to save the e-brake release handle, plastic trim piece, and factory headlight switch if their re-use is required.
-Remove all dash vents all the way back to the air box, leaving both the floor vents and the defrost vents.
-Bolt the two aluminum dash halves together on the bench.
-Approximate the lengths of hose needed to connect your dash vents. Cut the hose to the correct lengths. Install all vents in aluminum dash except for the outboard passenger vent. Connect hoses to vents and Y pipes. Vents, hoses, y's, and airbox adapter are supplied if the dash vent option is selected.
-Install the metal DIN stereo sleeve if stereo option is selected.
-If additional wiring is to take place behind the dash, do so at this point. This would be a good time to finish up your gauge and stereo wiring and tap the factory harness for the new high beam and turn signal indicators.
-Place aluminum dash in vehicle and install the four side bolts, leaving the outside passenger vent uninstalled allows you to reach through the vent hole to install the upper passenger side bolt. After that bolt is tight, you can then install the vent.
-Using the supplied hardware, bolt the factory climate control unit into the new dash.
-Connect the stereo and slide it into the dash.
-Install the factory headlight switch, e-brake trim piece, and e-brake release into the new dash.
-Install the supplied dash vent to air box adapter, if ordered, and connect to the new vent tubing.
-Install your gauges and high beam/turn signal indicators (if ordered) into the removable gauge panel and connect them. Install the gauge panel.
-There is a mounting hole in the lower lip of the dash for the factory courtesy light. Whether or not you use it is up to you, the hole is hidden either way.
-Get off the computer, out of the garage, and go wheel your junk.
