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Aluminum radiator?

UPS

UPS

1/2 ton status
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What do you know about Griffin radiators? Are they any good? How long will they last? Have you used one? Have you heard anything bad about them?

This is the radiator Griffin recommended for me. They said it will cool 800HP with a good electric fan. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=GRI-1-55272-X

I need to cool the 502ci big block in my mud truck. It has an old 4 core copper/brass radiator in it now and it runs too hot.

What other options do I have? Are there other manufacturers of aluminum radiators that make them with dual 1.25" cores?

What are you using to cool your big blocks?

Thanks,
Mike
 
If I need to replace the rad in my 78 GMG 454, I'd go for that Griffin. The one in my truck now is a 4 core hi density re-built stocker which works good. As for elect fans, I ran a Flex a Lite 295 dual fan and loved it at low speeds, but on the freeway it couldn't keep up with cooling, and engine temps slowly climbed upwards. My local rad builder recommended trashing the elec fans and putting a mechanical one back in (HD blades) with a severe duty fan clutch (tow truck application) which I did. It cools great at all speeds and conditions now. My cooling "test" was towing my car carrier + baja bug and a cabover camper up a long steep grade in summer. Cooled great.
 
I run the dual 1.25" row Griffen Radiator. It is in my K5. I am running duel flex-a-lite 14" electric fans. I am also running a 547 c.i. caddilac stroker. The only time mine has gotten hotter than I like is when I wasted the trans. It only got to 210 though. I have no cooling issues on the highway or the trail.
 
I run a Griffin in front of my 454,with two fans and it has been great.I run the relays in series off an el-cheapo thermostat and have had zero probs for three years now.And I have abused it like a red-headed stepchild.:doah:
Lotsa mud,having the front end slam down off of vert sections while crawling,you name it.They are built very well.
 
How did you mount the universal ones? If you have pics that would be great.

Thanks,
Mike
 
I used a sheet of 1/4" rubber along the bottom of the core support and sandwiched it between that and the stock clamps on the top.The top clamps on the 1st gens have rubber inserts.Don't think I have any pics that show that very well.Hope this helps.
 
So your new radiator was about the same height as the old one?

The radiator I am thinking about buying is about 2" shorter than the original radiator.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Yup,a nice fit.Shouldn't be too hard to mod your factory retainer to fit.And try to use as much rubber to insulate it from shocks,and also to keep it from rubbing on any steel.That would wear a hole in it pretty quick.
 
You can save about $100 by going with Summits version.. made by Northern iirc, I've been quite happy with mine...
 
My buddy has a Ron Davis radiator (similar to a Griffin) in his V-8 S-10 and his Vortec 4.3 powered Jeep YJ. We also used one in a friends smallblock powered 86 Toyota truck. Both the S-10 and the Toy use electric fans, while the Jeep uses the 9-blade plastic clutch fan. None of them have any issues with overheating in the AZ summer, and there have been no reliability issues with the welded aluminum construction. I would use one without hesitation.
 
ryoken said:
You can save about $100 by going with Summits version.. made by Northern iirc, I've been quite happy with mine...
Click to expand...

They don't sell one with 1.25" tubes, do they?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I would rather overkill it than have to buy another one a year or two down the road. I may need more power :thinking: once I get the driveline strong enough to handle this much. I like horsepower and torque.:D

Mike
 
MaxPF said:
My buddy has a Ron Davis radiator (similar to a Griffin) in his V-8 S-10 and his Vortec 4.3 powered Jeep YJ. We also used one in a friends smallblock powered 86 Toyota truck. Both the S-10 and the Toy use electric fans, while the Jeep uses the 9-blade plastic clutch fan. None of them have any issues with overheating in the AZ summer, and there have been no reliability issues with the welded aluminum construction. I would use one without hesitation.
Click to expand...

What is your opinion of a Griffin dual 1.25" with clutch fan for a 6.2 diesel? Reason I ask is either I need to spend $$ to have my stock rad re-cored, or near enough to the same money for a Griffin.

Rene
 
It should work OK. I would go with the wider core if it will fit, but it probably isn't needed. Two of the Ron Davis units we used are in compact pickups with healthy smallblocks and electric fans. The 6.2 makes less heat and the engine compartment of a fullsize breathes much better, plus the radiator frontal area is quite a bit more than those compact pickups.

You may not be able to get one with a cooler in the drivers side tank unless Griffin does special orders. Thats no biggie - get a B&M flat plate tranny cooler and use it for the oil cooler.
 
MaxPF said:
It should work OK. I would go with the wider core if it will fit, but it probably isn't needed. Two of the Ron Davis units we used are in compact pickups with healthy smallblocks and electric fans. The 6.2 makes less heat and the engine compartment of a fullsize breathes much better, plus the radiator frontal area is quite a bit more than those compact pickups.

You may not be able to get one with a cooler in the drivers side tank unless Griffin does special orders. Thats no biggie - get a B&M flat plate tranny cooler and use it for the oil cooler.
Click to expand...

31"X19"X3" dual 1 1/4" cores with cooler. Griffin part# 1-55272-T http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-55272-T&N=700+115&autoview=sku

31"x19"x3" dual 1 1/4" cores without cooler. Griffin part# 1-55272-X
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI-1-55272-X&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Mike
 
I'd prolly run a separate cooler for the oil...and $300 ish is right in line with what a quality re-core would cost me here (if not more)

Rene
 
We wheel in AZ when it's 110 degrees with the AC on. I know 2 people that used Ron Davis aluminum radiators. Both failed from corrosion within 2 years. Holes develope in the tubes. My preferred option would be to use a Diesel radiator for the 86 truck. It is longer than the small block gas rad. The holes for the mounts are already located in the core support on the drivers side. Use all OEM mounts. Could get the metal parts from a wrecking yard. Buy new rubber parts. Need to adapt the ID of the diesel hose to the ID of the gas engine hose. Adapt the side of the shroud on the drivers side (or not). That is one huge and reliable radiator.

If you do your homework and research the use of aluminum radiators for 4x4 trucks, you may conclude as I have that they are more problematic.

If you go with aluminum, never put a green coolant with silicates in it. Always use an orange extended life coolant in aluminum.
 
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