CK5
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Am I missing something? Dana 60

NWF still doesn't have it on the website
I wonder which company I should go with.
Also, I'm really wondering if vacuum brakes are going to be enough. I want to know what MC they recommend, cause that's always a crapshoot.
 
NWF still doesn't have it on the website
I wonder which company I should go with.
Also, I'm really wondering if vacuum brakes are going to be enough. I want to know what MC they recommend, cause that's always a crapshoot.

Taking the K5 to Laguna Seca?
 
NWF still doesn't have it on the website
I wonder which company I should go with.

Iirc from the facebook posts from each company, the Torq bracks are a lot cheaper BUT it's brackets only. Seems like the NWF kit included more parts.

Fwiw, these brake upgrades are for 6 bolt spindle king pin axles, they do not offer Ford versions yet.
 
Taking the K5 to Laguna Seca?
I take it where ever I damn well want. And if that so happens to be in the middle of LA traffic and I need to stop, I want it to stop. Same with crawling down a ledge in Moab, it's gotta hold itself and not roll off LMAO :yikes:
 
I don't think any brakes are going to help in LA traffic, buy a bigger bumper :D
 
Post up the price if you call.

There's also a company call Cut Bros (that I think only has a FB page) that offers an adapter block to put later factory rear disc AAM parts on a typical older 14 bolt.
 
i have run 14ff with 3/4 ton rotors and 1/2 ton calipers . front gm all stock dana 60 brake parts and 100% new rotors and mid grade pads . 1ton master & hydroboost for the system . then tee'd the front and wildwood adjustable valve only in rear .

38x12.50x16.5 swamper tsl bias ply with 25psi and std cab long bed truck 6400-6500 lbs range no problems for years in my old truck . 45mph would lock all 4 up no problem and otherwise was great street manners .

I don't see the need for the dodge upgrade unless going crazy buggy building with 53-56" tires or bigger .

a lot has to do with condition of the rotor / drum surface AND the quality and level of pad used . if you buy cheep you get cheep . if you pad slap on glazed / groved / micro cracked rotors you get crap brakes .

this is just my opinion and past experience .
 
They look like the base of one of those cheap chrome air cleaners !..(the shiny dust shield ,not the gold colored one)..
 
That's not really a solution I guess. It just covers it up so you can't see it. They can be found in many people's scrap piles cause they rust away. I thought they have been discontinued for a long time now.
 
That's not really a solution I guess. It just covers it up so you can't see it. They can be found in many people's scrap piles cause they rust away. I thought they have been discontinued for a long time now.

Yeah that's what I'm finding. The word "Obsolete" kept coming up. I guess I'll just run it as it is. Thought these might at least keep that area from getting caked up with mud and what not.
 
@sweetk30
Your story is what keeps the disc swap alive. Problem though, people think my story of woe is just my fault. If there is no support for these "kits", like anything of any sort, then it's complete BS and not worth the dice roll/$ to see if there is an improvement. If people need to change to hydroboost for these rear disc swaps to work, then that needs to be noted and supported.

But this argument has been made before, several times over, and I'm normally taking part because of the trouble I've had.
 
if you ask me @K85 Octane all people have to do is Keep It Simple Stupid......... KISS method .

if you put 1 ton brakes on with your axles put 1 ton master/booster system on .

if you don't have some parts then match the system the best possible like 3/4 ton braket kit with 3/4 ton master/booster .

the biggest problem I see and read about is yea they works with 1/2 ton master / booster but the pedal travel is almost maxed out . . . . well were is your reserve people ? ? your using almost all the avalible fluid the master can pump up with nothing left over for extra if needed.

and if your doing disk rear then ditch the stock prop valve down on the frame at the front crossmember . tee the front and install an adjustable in the rear line . or if need be or want it there is replacement prop valves now with built in adjuster knob on them to bolt in / plumb in just like stock and even has the switch for the dash light .
 
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