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Amp wiring problems

Owenpark04

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Miller ,mo
I’ve been trying to rewire the sound system for my 88 blazer and picking through the nest of wires that has grown under the dash from previous owners. I have got my speakers wired directly to the head unit (running pioneer 6x9’s and 6.5’s in the back for backseat.these right now are running great but my next step is wiring in a amp to run the subs for the back. The power wire has been ran from the battery and has power (tested) and the ground is ran rust surrounding the self tapper screw the dude before me put in.
reading up on the subject I have come down to a few issues of not getting any power to the amp
1. The ground needs relocated to a new clean spot
2. The amp has power but won’t turn on without the remote turn on wire attached which is my main suspicion
Knowing I will need to put this on eventually I need to know if I can simply run the blue wire from the head unit as which it is labeled or I have read that some have had to find a specific fuse slot not being used that works
So here are my last few questions
If needing to go through the fuse panel what fuse type should I look for or is there going to be a specific one that is used for this
Thanks for all the help ,
Owen
 
A good ground connection is just as important as the power wire, without it the return path for the current is not complete and nothing will work. To get things working you can just connect the remote turn on wire to +12V. When you get the amp working then you can switch the remote turn on wire to either a power source that turns on with the key in the acc position or preferably to your head unit if it has that option.
And make sure you have an appropriately sized fuse in between your battery and amp.
 
The amp will not turn on without the remote power wire connected. No way around that. But for sure get a good solid ground. My amps are mounted under my seats and I wire wheeled the body and tied it in to one of the seat bolts. Works perfect.
 
Another thing (and maybe you just didnt mention them) you will need are RCA cables to get any sound. but yes without the signal wire, the amp doesnt know to turn on.
 
Adding on to what rampage said, if you run the amp remote wire (which should be connected to the blue wire from the head unit) directly to the fuse box, ensure that you pick a slot on the fuse box that is keyed power. Otherwise, the amp will never turn off.

Additionally, the remote wire from the head unit acts just like a relay wire. When it has current, the relay in the amp powers on. With the head unit powered, you can check to see the if the headunit remote wire (blue) has current.

EDIT: I've seen amps with a built-in fuse too. It may even be inside the case. Check the manual.
 
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Adding on to what rampage said, if you run the amp remote wire (which should be connected to the blue wire from the head unit) directly to the fuse box, ensure that you pick a slot on the fuse box that is keyed power. Otherwise, the amp will never turn off.

Additionally, the remote wire from the head unit acts just like a relay wire. When it has current, the relay in the amp powers on. With the head unit powered, you can check to see the if the headunit remote wire (blue) has current.

EDIT: I've seen amps with a built-in fuse too. It may even be inside the case. Check the manual.
Is there a way to identify the keyed power fuse?
 
Is there a way to identify the keyed power fuse?

Yes, since you said you tested the power wire I’m assuming you have a multimeter and know how to use it. With the in the off position the voltage should read 0V and when you turn the key to the ACC position the meter should read 12V. If your meter says 12V when the key is in the off position then it’s not keyed.
 
Yes, since you said you tested the power wire I’m assuming you have a multimeter and know how to use it. With the in the off position the voltage should read 0V and when you turn the key to the ACC position the meter should read 12V.
That makes good sense thank you for all of your help
 
I believe on the 88 there should be a few open spots on the fuse block just labeled ACC. Just put a blade connector on and plug it in one of those.
 
Be aware that if you do power the remote wire for the amp directly to the fuse box, you may get an audible thump from the subs when the head unit powers up. You want the head unit to power up before the amp(s). Most head units have a delay in powering the remote wire for this reason. Some digital amps will have a setting where you can program a delay to power the amp to combat that power-up thump.
 
Be aware that if you do power the remote wire for the amp directly to the fuse box, you may get an audible thump from the subs when the head unit powers up. You want the head unit to power up before the amp(s). Most head units have a delay in powering the remote wire for this reason. Some digital amps will have a setting where you can program a delay to power the amp to combat that power-up thump.

x2, just use the remote wire in the head unit. Don’t run it to the fuse box.
 
Agreed. Just run a wire from the blue (or sometimes blue/white) wire on the head unit to the remote turn on on the amp and that's all you need. You can daisy chain it if you have multiple amps. I've also learned the hard way to not connect the RCA cables if the head unit is powered on. You can blow the hum filters. Make sure everything is turned off prior to making any connections.
 
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