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An entire brake job?

Yes the syringe will work if it fits tight in the hole.

Many years ago some master cylinder replacements came with a syringe that had a large rubber nose. You filled the syringe with brake fluid then held it up to one off the exit ports and forced the brake fluid in,air would bubble out through the reservoir.
Need to be very carefull when using a syringe. There is the potential of injecting brake fluid into your body or eyes.
Can be FATAL.
That said I still use this method time to time20241112_101850.jpg
 
Wes Harden said:
On a side note everyone needs a vice
Click to expand...
Nowhere to attach it to. I don’t have a workbench.

I purchased a new master. I wanted to do the method where the MC is filled, clear return lines are connected to the exit ports on one end of the lines and allowed to dump back into the MC at the other end. Then a clean syringe (I will clean the one pictured) is used to blow fluid into the holes at the bottom of the reservoir. Where exactly do I put the syringe tip? I have a syringe that looks like the one pictured below. Very narrow tip.

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Just when you think you are rounding third base headed home, you get called back to first base!

So, when disconnecting the MC lines, the front larger one would not come off, despite months of PB blaster, the heat/water trick and vice grips. You may remember from the first page that the front line had an adapter (really a splitter) on it which fed a line to an old Kelsey Haynes brake controller. I could loosen the KH adapter from the MC but could not get the regular brake line but out of the KH adapter. So I cut it and figured I would get a new nut and re-flare.

It is a larger line than the rear MC port. Does anyone know the size of the line? I have the brake flare loaner tool, but when I put the 1/4 inch die in the line, it is swimming around in there and when I put the 5/16” die in, it won’t go in. The outside measure 1/4”, so why is the 1/4” die bouncing around inside?

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After 5 days of practicing double flares, I realize that this is not going to work. I’ve watched countless videos and my double flares stink. Where I am now:

I am trying to double flare the 1/4” brake line end that goes in to the front port of the new master cylinder. The other end is still connected to the proportioning valve. If I cannot get a good double flare, I am going to hope I can get a good disconnect of this line from the proportioning valve and replace the whole line. My issue is I am having a problem finding a line (I need about 36-42 inches) with double flared ends already in place (turn key solution). I haven’t checked the end fitting that goes into the proportioning valve yet. The fitting that goes into the master cylinder is 9/16” -18 inverted flare.

Before breaking down and shelling out 200-300 dollars on a complete set of pre-bent brake lines (and only using one of them), is there a place to get such line? Maybe even a custom shop? Would a brake shop make one for me?
 
inline tube has a sale this weekend. Chances are they made the lines you are trying to fix for GM check out their site and see if they can get you what you need

www.inlinetube.com

Inline Tube | Preformed Lines, Brake Products, DIY & Restoration Parts

Inline Tube is the largest manufacturer of automotive preformed replacement brake lines and fuel lines with an extensive catalog of award winning restoration parts. From disc brake conversions to DIY kits, trust in the industry leading experts. Order online today!
www.inlinetube.com www.inlinetube.com
 
if you cant get flairs after a few shots let alone 5 days i am sorry but stop and get a master line kit pre-bent or pay a shop . its brakes dont screw around .

in my 20+ years wrenching i can not count how many flairs i have made . yes i have a super fancy tool . but i can still use a old school basic kit if i have to .

show us some pics of how your doing them and how you think they fail .
 
I have found I need tighten the tube clamp in bench vise to start the 1st half of the flare. Nicopper is dot legal tubing much easier to flare than steel or stianless
 
First, a quick word to y’all to say thank you for my never ending questions!

I am at the proportioning (distribution) valve by the front crossmember. I am in the process of trying to remove the line from the MC front port. I removed the adjacent plastic boot for the switch to get more room. I have tried the brake line (it has gotten PB blaster many times) but it wouldn’t move with a open end wrench. Vice grip access is poor, even with the valve block unbolted off the cross member. I am now in the process of sliding the box end of a 9/16” combination wrench and wriggling it along the torturous path of the brake line to get it right on the nut of the valve.

If this doesn’t work, I will order the entire kit of prebent lines from inline or LMC. And I will order new rubber lines as well a new proportioning valve. Basically an entire rebuild minus the calipers and the rebuilt drums I just finished. But the prebent kits and proportioning valves make a distinction between disc and disc conversion. I don’t see any that say front disc/rear drum.

Does anyone have links for the valve and the prevent lines?
 
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sweetk30 said:
if you are NOT reusing the line then cut it off and use a socket and ratchet . and a good quality set of line wrenches goes a long way .
Click to expand...
Sometimes, I get tunnel vision! I have to replace the line because I cut it off the master cylinder on the other end and I am not going to play around with my lack of flaring skills.

Any thoughts on the right proportioning valve for a car with disc/drums instead of disc/disc? I am at a loss to find one that says that.
 
Line wrenches sometimes help getting stubborn fittings off w/o f'n up the brass nuts. they're kind of a box end wrench w/ a small slot cut out to allow it to slip over the line. They may not get used often but when you need them, they can be a miracle worker.
 
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