I done built myself a hoist and storage system. Giddy up.....
I started with lots of measuring and checking. Also knowledge that my rafters could hold the load without compromising the building. I used an online structural calc to spec my new "beams" that will span between rafters and hold the load. I ended up with 2x2x.25 angle with some specifically spaced braces. The braces really stiffen the beam and are important. I bought 1 20' stick for $54 from a local steel place. I cut my slightly longer than 7.5' (rafters are 7.5' apart) pieces and then used the rest to make spreader pieces to go ontop of the rafters. I then welded some tabs to that and for assembly purposes bolted my cross beams to my 'spreader' pieces. I couldn't weld this all up on the floor and put it up because there's only 3.5" between the rafter and steel ceiling. And I didn't want to weld atop a ladder in a confined space. I think it works nice, it just sits up there. I drilled side holes in my spreader pieces to screw to the rafters but the friction down weight on those ~1' spreader pieces is plenty to keep them from moving so I've not put screws in. .
Bought all the hardware from McMaster-Carr. I probably went overboard with the "for lifting" stuff. But, it will sit overhead where I work, walk, park, etc. That '73 full top probably really only weighs 300lbs, mabey 400 at utter most with line-x inside and out. I spec'd everything to 800.
I made my own cables for all the 3/16" stuff. I had the nicropress tool already. The winch cable 5/16" came with the eye hook already on it, you need a hydraulic press to do those compression fittings any bigger ****** than 1/4" wire rope. They come out really nice and are far stronger than those u-clamp wire rope things you get at the hardware store.
Turned out really nice. One thing from my video. I say I pull back to a post on one side where the re-direct pulley is. Yeah, that doesn't work. Every foot you go to the side is a half-foot the far side will lift more than near. I ended up with a chain between the posts and putting the redirect pulley in the middle so it centers the 4-to-1 joint right to left in the bay and pulls evenly right to left. I also may jamb a 4x4 in between the two posts holding the chain for the re-direct pulley. I don't see them moving inwards at all from measuring, but just so they don't move at all, it may be a good idea.
It looks so simple, but damn, did that take 40hrs of planning, ordering the right hardware, building/assembly etc. But, I can now lift my top myself, easily, which makes taking it on and off much more enjoyable....and more importantly....likely. I do have a soft top but just getting the hard top on and off myself was an all day chore rigging straps, tractors, precarious tractor to truck relationship...no where to set the top where it won't get trashed after a week.....etc....
I marked the floor with tape where I need to back in. In my case I used center bay of my setup which is usually free , so I can just back in, unbolt, slide two boards under, latch on, wind the winch, (get ladder which is always in there) slide the safety boards under and lower onto safety boards. I could just let the winch hold it, but your not supposed to rely on the winch brake to hold the load. There's a prawl and friction surface disc..but I just kinda lower it enough onto the boards slid onto the bottom chord of the rafters .
I also had to cut out a middle 2x4 rafter stringer that ran the length of the building on top of the bottom chord. I replaced with 2 2x4 on either end of the top.
In the end I used:
Click on the pic for giant size
I started with lots of measuring and checking. Also knowledge that my rafters could hold the load without compromising the building. I used an online structural calc to spec my new "beams" that will span between rafters and hold the load. I ended up with 2x2x.25 angle with some specifically spaced braces. The braces really stiffen the beam and are important. I bought 1 20' stick for $54 from a local steel place. I cut my slightly longer than 7.5' (rafters are 7.5' apart) pieces and then used the rest to make spreader pieces to go ontop of the rafters. I then welded some tabs to that and for assembly purposes bolted my cross beams to my 'spreader' pieces. I couldn't weld this all up on the floor and put it up because there's only 3.5" between the rafter and steel ceiling. And I didn't want to weld atop a ladder in a confined space. I think it works nice, it just sits up there. I drilled side holes in my spreader pieces to screw to the rafters but the friction down weight on those ~1' spreader pieces is plenty to keep them from moving so I've not put screws in. .
Bought all the hardware from McMaster-Carr. I probably went overboard with the "for lifting" stuff. But, it will sit overhead where I work, walk, park, etc. That '73 full top probably really only weighs 300lbs, mabey 400 at utter most with line-x inside and out. I spec'd everything to 800.
I made my own cables for all the 3/16" stuff. I had the nicropress tool already. The winch cable 5/16" came with the eye hook already on it, you need a hydraulic press to do those compression fittings any bigger ****** than 1/4" wire rope. They come out really nice and are far stronger than those u-clamp wire rope things you get at the hardware store.
Turned out really nice. One thing from my video. I say I pull back to a post on one side where the re-direct pulley is. Yeah, that doesn't work. Every foot you go to the side is a half-foot the far side will lift more than near. I ended up with a chain between the posts and putting the redirect pulley in the middle so it centers the 4-to-1 joint right to left in the bay and pulls evenly right to left. I also may jamb a 4x4 in between the two posts holding the chain for the re-direct pulley. I don't see them moving inwards at all from measuring, but just so they don't move at all, it may be a good idea.
It looks so simple, but damn, did that take 40hrs of planning, ordering the right hardware, building/assembly etc. But, I can now lift my top myself, easily, which makes taking it on and off much more enjoyable....and more importantly....likely. I do have a soft top but just getting the hard top on and off myself was an all day chore rigging straps, tractors, precarious tractor to truck relationship...no where to set the top where it won't get trashed after a week.....etc....
I marked the floor with tape where I need to back in. In my case I used center bay of my setup which is usually free , so I can just back in, unbolt, slide two boards under, latch on, wind the winch, (get ladder which is always in there) slide the safety boards under and lower onto safety boards. I could just let the winch hold it, but your not supposed to rely on the winch brake to hold the load. There's a prawl and friction surface disc..but I just kinda lower it enough onto the boards slid onto the bottom chord of the rafters .
I also had to cut out a middle 2x4 rafter stringer that ran the length of the building on top of the bottom chord. I replaced with 2 2x4 on either end of the top.
In the end I used:
- 1 20' stick of 2x2x1/4 angle
- 4 3/16" latching pulleys
- 1 5/16" eyebolt pulley
- 72' of 3/16" cable
- Nicopress copper wire rope compression sleeves
- 8 3/16" wire rope thimbles
- Brake winch
- 30' 5/16" winch cable w/hook (20 would have worked for me)
- 4 750lbs latches
- 8 eyebolts (4 1"shank (steel) 4 3" shank(wood))
- 4 3/8" shackles (3 on the re-direct chain which is one holding the chain warped around each post and one holding the re-direct pulley to the chain, 1 on the 4-to-1 joint)
- Lots of time measuring, thinking, ensure it'll fit, where to put, how to assemble.....etc...
- Probably some other crap
Click on the pic for giant size
