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And my 14bsf adventure begins...

K5Jimmy

K5Jimmy

1/2 ton status
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Lake Dardanelle/Logan Co, Ark
Short story long, I grenaded my final 12b while I was 500 miles from home. Searched for 5 days and finally found a 3.42 open that fit. I decided I could build a 14bsf cheap. Never built a diff in my life. I'm not a mechanic, I just work on stuff.

I sourced a pretty ok axle from a 91 Sub 4x4, 3.73 G80. I bought new axle shafts because I couldn't find any donors. Went to a pull yer own yard for backing plates, drums, etc. When I pulled the drums, I noticed very recent brake shoes. Pulled the cover to pull the c clips and squealed like an 8 yo girl on a waterslide....3.73, G80, virtually new! This 97 2500 work truck showing 300k+ had a completely rebuilt rear end!

Took the backing plates and brake parts for $47.80. Went back today and got the gears and carrier for $53! I have a call in for the 1/2" spacer, so I'll start this thing when I can work in the cool of the day.
 
Watching...I have a 85 K20 with a 14BSF sitting here...I've been contemplating swapping that into my K5 along with a set of 6 lug alloy shafts, but then since drum brake 14BFFs are so dang cheap, I can't decide which way to go....
 
When I put the 14SF 6 lug in my '90, I put 1/2" studs in to give the lug nut more room for the taper to match the seat in the wheel. I really liked how the whole swap turned out.
 
campfire said:
They're both good axles, and I'd lean toward using whatever you have lying around. But the 10.5" full float is a bunch easier to work on... :whistle:
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Richcz28 said:
Don’t bother with the semi float. Just put a 14bff in.
Click to expand...

I'd say not to hijack his post....but that's exactly what I'm doing, lol...

It's that whole strength vs. clearance vs. cost thing for me. I don't see myself going bigger than a 37" tire on this one, as it's going to be an all-around wheeler/camping rig. I have virtually new 33s on it now, and planned on 35s when these are ready to be replaced. I could shave a FF, and I'd have to buy new wheels, which would cost more than buying new 6 lug alloy shafts for the SF..and do I really need the FF beef for 35s? I'm running aluminum rims now, and don't want to go back to steel...old elbow injury, it's painful enough changing these aluminum wheels.

What it's probably going to come down is what happens with my donor truck, and whether that SF axle goes with whats left after I finish pulling the motor out of it,lol.
 
Mine broke on 35s...

14bffs are wayyyyy cheaper. They have more options available for modification. The disc brake conversion is super easy. Oh, and your wheel doesn’t fall off when your shaft snaps.

I saw lots of positive comments about 14bsf axles on Ck5. That’s why I went that direction. It was bad advice.
 
Richcz28 said:
14bffs are wayyyyy cheaper. They have more options available for modification. The disc brake conversion is super easy. Oh, and your wheel doesn’t fall off when your shaft snaps.
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They're not cheaper when you already have the SF axle sitting under the donor truck, lol...unless someone is going to pay me to take their complete FF axle...

Though it would appear I jumped the gun a bit. I saw plenty of alloy, 6 lug, 14BSF shafts online, but I failed to check the application charts - they're all for the 88+ axles which use a different shaft than the older axles. I could probably call up Alloy USA, Yukon, etc and have them make me a 6 lug shaft to fit, but I'm sure "custom" work like that will drive up the price considerably. I did find where people did successfully convert the older axle using newer axle shafts, but it also required changing to smaller brakes, which I'm not wild about either. 4.10 gearing and drum brakes are fine by me, and I'd just a spool in it..or weld it up if I can't get a spool.

So at the end of it, it would appear the cost of modifying the axle I have to work with my existing wheels will likely cost at least almost as much as just buying new 8 lug wheels and a FF axle, and possibly end up being even more expensive.
 
I think you can space out the backing plate. I think it’s a white stepside that adjusted for that. @Chevy305 is running 6 lug shafts in a 3/4 ton square body housing.


Even with the $150 for the 14bff you would come out ahead in cost. I bet you’ve spent close to a full 14bff build just on your shafts.


There was no skinny pedal involved. I have a 6.2. It was slow rock crawling and it just popped when pulling over a rock.
 
Richcz28 said:
I think you can space out the backing plate. I think it’s a white stepside that adjusted for that. @Chevy305 is running 6 lug shafts in a 3/4 ton square body housing.


Even with the $150 for the 14bff you would come out ahead in cost. I bet you’ve spent close to a full 14bff build just on your shafts.


There was no skinny pedal involved. I have a 6.2. It was slow rock crawling and it just popped when pulling over a rock.
Click to expand...

That’s what happens when an axle shaft is doing two jobs - supporting the weight of the truck and rotational force. FF only need to handle the torque, the weight of the truck is supported by bearings.
 
Richcz28 said:
I think you can space out the backing plate. I think it’s a white stepside that adjusted for that. @Chevy305 is running 6 lug shafts in a 3/4 ton square body housing.


Even with the $150 for the 14bff you would come out ahead in cost. I bet you’ve spent close to a full 14bff build just on your shafts.


There was no skinny pedal involved. I have a 6.2. It was slow rock crawling and it just popped when pulling over a rock.
Click to expand...
To run the 88+ 6 lug shafts in the square body 8 lug housing all you need to do is space the smaller 6 lug backing plates out about 1/2". Only the smaller 6 lug drums will work with the 6 lug shafts. (Which are still bigger than the 10 or 12 bolt drums).
 
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