CK5
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And why does IFS suck again......

pics of the 2 i have .

i know thay are from a 2500hd gas truck 4x4. and never seen them take diffrent tie rods. the lift kits said works with 2500 and 3500 trucks.

you want them i will just ask shipping price. i forgot to toss them out of my scrap pile and still have them. the cust didnt want them back and he is back home in midwest state . he was here for a big gas line job.

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Dayum.... hard to believe that would snap at 10 mph... must have been a ****ty cast gm used. Probably had cracks all over it before it broke.
 
Did the pot hole make the bumper on that side fall off to LOL?

I'm willing to bet that truck has been beat pretty badly and your damage has nothing to do with the pot hole you hit and more to do with the history of that truck.
 
This same thing just happened to a workers truck here yesterday, went up a curb at the gas station going 1mph in his 2000 3/4 ton, bam the whole truck fell on the ground. Spindle broke in half. The curb was the icing on the cake, the truck needed balljoints and bushings last I looked under there....

I had this same thing happen 5-6 years back to a 99' 1/2 ton I drove back from the airport for a friend, 5 minutes into the drive leaving the airport, merge onto the freeway, the spindle broke in half at 25-30 mph randomally changing lanes in traffic....

Id have to say all these instances were do to neglegence on front end repairs (ball joints, bearings, control arm bushings) because gm built these trucks so fast and cheap the parts just wear out too fast.
 
I got lucky, apparently they had one laying in the back of the store room they didnt know about, it had came in a few weeks ago and they forgot about it.....so the beotch will be fixed today......
 
10 MPH or even five it can break. Those roads are so bad over there, the suspensions on all the trucks and cars can only take a beating for so long before metal fatigue sets in and starts to weaken it. Then all it takes is just the right amount of force and snap!

Thanks for doing your part over there so we can remain safe and free here. Much appreciated.
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WELL MY DAY ENDED WELL YESTERDAY!!!!!!!!!


So LVM got the truck "fixed" yesterday about 1100, except for the CV axle, they didnt have one, so now the truck dont have 4 wheel drive, about 1745 i hear what sounds like either a light scrapping or air leak coming from the front tire for about 5-6 seconds then a hard jerk to the right, the unitized hub bearing completely fails and I have to limp it back to the fuel yard......I am not pleased......This is the same side that just got fixed.......
 
did thay not install the stub end of the c/v shaft to hold the unit bearing together? if not you sir have my permission hell orders to kick them square in the balls. :mad:
 
This is the original failed spindle.......This is the junk CV axle......
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This is what happens when you dont put the end of the CV shaft in the hub bearing and bolt it down......It divides by zero and eats itself......

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This is part of the failed bearing that I found laying on the road where the bearing decided to divide by zero and implode into itself.........

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Yeah, looks like sweetK30 is right. I used to have to do this to VW's after I would yank a motor/trans. Put a spare set of flanges/nuts in through the wheel bearing to keep the bearing from doing that just to push it out side of the shop! Eeek. Nut kicking it is!
 
yep if a shaft goes threw it NEEDS a shaft in the hole.

had to tow a fiero 1 time. no shafts. barrly got it 20 ft on and 20ft off the flatbed tow truck with them ready to fall out.

some stay tight for a bit some rollem 20 ft and ready to fall out.


and go tell your motor pool mechanic to get the f$&k back to school and learn somthing.

and that spindle looks like it was eaten and snaped off by a bad ball joint to me.

do thay even know the correct way to check ball joints? on that style of truck jack up the lower control arm with ALL vehicle weight on it. get nice 4 foot prybar and stick under tire . then pull up to check for free play in the ball / socket of the ball joint. this will check lower. then push / pull on the top in and out to check the upper ball joint.

wow this some scarry stuff.
 
yep if a shaft goes threw it NEEDS a shaft in the hole.

had to tow a fiero 1 time. no shafts. barrly got it 20 ft on and 20ft off the flatbed tow truck with them ready to fall out.

some stay tight for a bit some rollem 20 ft and ready to fall out.


and go tell your motor pool mechanic to get the f$&k back to school and learn somthing.

and that spindle looks like it was eaten and snaped off by a bad ball joint to me.

do thay even know the correct way to check ball joints? on that style of truck jack up the lower control arm with ALL vehicle weight on it. get nice 4 foot prybar and stick under tire . then pull up to check for free play in the ball / socket of the ball joint. this will check lower. then push / pull on the top in and out to check the upper ball joint.

wow this some scarry stuff.

Dude, I'm Civilian, the guys working on it are Civilians.......The guys at LVM told me that it didnt need the CV shaft through the bearing:doah:so if it fails again today I am going to flip.....They got it fixed yesterday evening but I aint picked it up yet.....
 
ok tell those civilans to go back to school.

YOU NEED THE SHAFT THREW THE HUB BEARING !

hell ask fr a good floor jack and prybar and check it your self and show them up. cause if truck is in the air hanging you will 98% of the time NOT find a worn ball joint. the torsion bar pulls all the play out of a worn socket.

and hope thay didnt make you pay for any wheel bearing repairs. if thay are charging you anything that i dont know.

and looking again at the pics. nice torn tie rod end boot ( prob from a pickle fork removal ) and lack of grease out of it or any fresh on the fitting.
 
and it looks to me like the spindle broke because the lower ball joint nut was loose.

But, there are some unit hubs that they use that are the same for 2wd or 4wd, in other words, some hub bearings don't have to have the shaft through it to hold it together, however, prolly 95% of them do.
 
thats how I'm running my '97 dually right now. I removed the IFS diff. split the CV joints and put the stub shafts back in.
 
ok tell those civilans to go back to school.

YOU NEED THE SHAFT THREW THE HUB BEARING !

hell ask fr a good floor jack and prybar and check it your self and show them up. cause if truck is in the air hanging you will 98% of the time NOT find a worn ball joint. the torsion bar pulls all the play out of a worn socket.

and hope thay didnt make you pay for any wheel bearing repairs. if thay are charging you anything that i dont know.

and looking again at the pics. nice torn tie rod end boot ( prob from a pickle fork removal ) and lack of grease out of it or any fresh on the fitting.

No they dont charge anything, Its KBR LVM doing work for KBR Bulk Fuel....

Agreed, the new bearing will pull apart if it's not in there.

and it looks to me like the spindle broke because the lower ball joint nut was loose.

But, there are some unit hubs that they use that are the same for 2wd or 4wd, in other words, some hub bearings don't have to have the shaft through it to hold it together, however, prolly 95% of them do.

thats how I'm running my '97 dually right now. I removed the IFS diff. split the CV joints and put the stub shafts back in.


GUESS WHAT........THE TRUCK MADE IT 1.5 MILES BEFORE BLOWING THE NEW HUB BEARING IN TWO.......I WILL HAVE PICTURES UP LATER TODAY.......IT SPIT THE ROLLERS, CAGE, AND RACE OUT THE BACK OF THE SPINDLE AND IT WAS LAYING ON THE GROUND.......
 
GUESS WHAT........THE TRUCK MADE IT 1.5 MILES BEFORE BLOWING THE NEW HUB BEARING IN TWO.......I WILL HAVE PICTURES UP LATER TODAY.......IT SPIT THE ROLLERS, CAGE, AND RACE OUT THE BACK OF THE SPINDLE AND IT WAS LAYING ON THE GROUND.......


so there was no stub shaft? they just let 'er buck????


:doah::doah::doah::doah:
 
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