Re: Anny body with ord X over?
You can use the factory studs from the left side on the right, we also have the new ARP super high zoot good stuff studs for replacements if yours aren't in good condition or if you want to replace the factory stuff. Either way, the short theaded end goes in the knuckle with a little locktite and then the arm goes down with the tapered nuts.
You should have had a small bag of tapered nuts with the arm, that's where the zirk would be for the arm, so if you don't have it, check your nut sack. If it's not there, it's a 1/4-28 zerk so you can get a new one at a parts store or just use the one from the factory arm or spring cup.
The factory studs work well, they're good material (tested better than grade 8 by a good margin) and the right length but they're super expensive and if they're used, they've been in use at least 13 years if not more, and they're still not as strong as our new ARP studs that cost less.
You can use the factory studs from the left side on the right, we also have the new ARP super high zoot good stuff studs for replacements if yours aren't in good condition or if you want to replace the factory stuff. Either way, the short theaded end goes in the knuckle with a little locktite and then the arm goes down with the tapered nuts.
You should have had a small bag of tapered nuts with the arm, that's where the zirk would be for the arm, so if you don't have it, check your nut sack. If it's not there, it's a 1/4-28 zerk so you can get a new one at a parts store or just use the one from the factory arm or spring cup.
The factory studs work well, they're good material (tested better than grade 8 by a good margin) and the right length but they're super expensive and if they're used, they've been in use at least 13 years if not more, and they're still not as strong as our new ARP studs that cost less.
