Another C to K conversion

[imiceman44]

I have couple of ideas how to move it. We'll see how it turns out.

I asked about the raduis arm mounting, and a few guys are running them like I described earlier, / \ axle end wider. They are supposed to flex better that way. That's the way I mount them, too.

If I can find one, I'm using panhard from Unimog. Seems to be long enough.

Just came to my mind, what is the front GAWR on 'Burban? I don't have registration card to mine because it has no plates.

Yeah the radius arms in a V shape is fine.
As for GAWR for the front on mine is 3500 LBS

 

[4x4_76]

As for GAWR for the front on mine is 3500 LBS

Thanks. Is that on K10? I had to call to our dmv to check GAWR on C10. I was in believe that those Defe radius arms are rated to 3306 lbs (1500 kg), and C10 has 3395 lbs (1540 kg) GAWR. Law says that if any suspension part is changed from other vehicle, it needs to have at least same, or greater GAWR. So, I was a bit pissed because of that 89 lbs difference.

But since I won't give up too easily, I asked around, and I was told that Defe arms actually have rated to 3483 lbs (1580 kg). So no problem there.

I ordered pitman arm today, should get it within couple of weeks.

There is one major drawback when using D60/14FF combo, and that's a loss of load carrying ability. This conversion adds at least 500 pounds more weight to a vehicle, and all that is off from cargo weight. But I'm not building it for carrying heavy stuff (trailers are for that purpose), it's build for off-roading and daily commuting.

There is one trick, however, to get higher cargo numbers. I could register 'Burban with D44/12-bolt, and then switch to D60/14FF. But there is a risk of that some jealous jerk goes and tells to dmv, and then I'm screwed. I don't want that, I build it legally.

 

[4x4_76]

Some progress today... Took the crossmember to work, I don't have acetylene torch at my garage. Much easier to cut off rivets than with grinder. Took off the upper brackets and the lower a-arm brackets.

When I got back to home, I made some careful measurements, and cut off the spring buckets right next to outer side of the frame.

Then I took the bucket from the left, and placed it on the right side, and vice versa. This way I can get springs more forward, almost on top of the axle.

I'm using 6 mm (1/4") plate to connect bucket, and the crossmember. Yellow line marks the cut to make room for the tie rod.

Lower half of the crossmember needs to be cut off. At the front I'll leave about 50 mm (2"), and to the rear 20 mm (7/8"). But D60's pumpkin may need more room. Vertical red line presents the plate that connects the bucket and the crossmember. Also the motor mount bracket will be redone from 8 mm (3/8") plate, so it triangulates the bucket. Blue line is for additional support, not sure will I use it. Looks much cleaner without it.

 

[4x4_76]

Couple of problems solved, new one arise First I swapped those 15" Boggers to 37x12.5-16 Creepy Crawlers, no caliber clearence issue no more. Also rear brakes on 14FF, I'm using 3/4 ton front calibers and t-case e-brake. First I was going to use Eldo calibers, but those won't pass inspection.

But the new problem, when using stock wheels on both axles, D60 and D44, do they have different track widht? And how much? I found out yesterday that it can be change +/- 30mm when changing wheels, and it goes in axle swap, too. I also have 14FF from Van, and that's 2,5" wider than SRW axle. Is there much difference to 12-bolt? I can play with backspacing a little, but I don't want to run different bs on rear axle compared to front, and that's what will happen if I don't cut rear axle narrower. SRW axle would be easy, but they are rare compared to Van axles. And that Van axle is already shaved.

 

[imiceman44]

Couple of problems solved, new one arise First I swapped those 15" Boggers to 37x12.5-16 Creepy Crawlers, no caliber clearence issue no more. Also rear brakes on 14FF, I'm using 3/4 ton front calibers and t-case e-brake. First I was going to use Eldo calibers, but those won't pass inspection.

But the new problem, when using stock wheels on both axles, D60 and D44, do they have different track widht? And how much? I found out yesterday that it can be change +/- 30mm when changing wheels, and it goes in axle swap, too. I also have 14FF from Van, and that's 2,5" wider than SRW axle. Is there much difference to 12-bolt? I can play with backspacing a little, but I don't want to run different bs on rear axle compared to front, and that's what will happen if I don't cut rear axle narrower. SRW axle would be easy, but they are rare compared to Van axles. And that Van axle is already shaved.

D44 is 2" narrower than D60
And like you noticed 14bff fom van is wider than SRW, but 12bolt is the same as SRW 14bff.
Is inspection a problem in that matter or is it a personnal preferance?

 

[4x4_76]

D44 is 2" narrower than D60
And like you noticed 14bff fom van is wider than SRW, but 12bolt is the same as SRW 14bff.
Is inspection a problem in that matter or is it a personnal preferance?

Thanks. I just searched dmv's web site, and I was misinformed earlier. When changing only wheels, there's that +/- 30mm ( 1 1/4"), but when axles are swapped, you can change track 100mm (4"), so no problems

Inspection is a problem in many times, depends on inspector. Some measure by millimiters, some say it's ok if it fits. Go figure

 

[imiceman44]

Thanks. I just searched dmv's web site, and I was misinformed earlier. When changing only wheels, there's that +/- 30mm ( 1 1/4"), but when axles are swapped, you can change track 100mm (4"), so no problems

Inspection is a problem in many times, depends on inspector. Some measure by millimiters, some say it's ok if it fits. Go figure

yeah I know, it's the same everywhere you go, luck of the draw

 

[4x4_76]

No progress what so ever, I've been working on my Dodge to get it through inspection, but no such luck. Loose track bar, so now I need to get Luke's Link to fix it.

Came to my mind, is there any difference in thicknes between C10, K10 and K20 Suburban frames. That's one thing inspector may want to know

 

[imiceman44]

No progress what so ever, I've been working on my Dodge to get it through inspection, but no such luck. Loose track bar, so now I need to get Luke's Link to fix it.

Came to my mind, is there any difference in thicknes between C10, K10 and K20 Suburban frames. That's one thing inspector may want to know

the difference is between the 10,20 and 30, K and C are the same

 

[4x4_76]

For a while I've been poundering idea of chopping off about a 1' 4" (40cm) behind the rear spring hangers. Better departure angle. Just don't find any pictures of such a mod

I was also thinking to lose a/c, both front and rear, since they don't work anyway.

I decided to ditch the cargo door conversion, tailgate has it advantages, but I just hate that electric glass. So I'm gonna get plexi or similar to replace the glass, and hinge it so it lifts up.

How much I could probably save weight with those mods?

 

[imiceman44]

For a while I've been poundering idea of chopping off about a 1' 4" (40cm) behind the rear spring hangers. Better departure angle. Just don't find any pictures of such a mod

I was also thinking to lose a/c, both front and rear, since they don't work anyway.

I decided to ditch the cargo door conversion, tailgate has it advantages, but I just hate that electric glass. So I'm gonna get plexi or similar to replace the glass, and hinge it so it lifts up.

How much I could probably save weight with those mods?

The tail gate is heavier than the barn doors, but if you put plexiglass it will be the same.
If you lose the A/C you probably save 50kg.
not worth it, fix the A/C.
And by the way the glass is curved slightly, so a plexy will not be perfect fit.
I had one setup like the regular glass, and everytime I wanted to raise the glass, I had to have some raise it while I am holding the edges and guiding it to go in the grove.
if you make it a lift gate style, you need to make a frame for it and have the frame curve meet the bed curve.

 

[4x4_76]

The tail gate is heavier than the barn doors, but if you put plexiglass it will be the same.
If you lose the A/C you probably save 50kg.
not worth it, fix the A/C.
And by the way the glass is curved slightly, so a plexy will not be perfect fit.
I had one setup like the regular glass, and everytime I wanted to raise the glass, I had to have some raise it while I am holding the edges and guiding it to go in the grove.
if you make it a lift gate style, you need to make a frame for it and have the frame curve meet the bed curve.

Yep, I was aware that glass is curved. I first thought that it was straight as is on Blazer, but when I was moving parts from 'Burban, I noticed the curve.

Weight is going to be problem in safety inspection, because they gonna put it on scale, and I may lose couple of seats. The thing is, when that truck was imported, it was registered as 2+3 seats in order to get lower import tax and diesel tax. Also the rear seat was modified, it has to be 1,5" thick (frame and padding), and it had to have certain angle. Those +3 seats were so called temporary seats. If you make any changes to that seat, you may have to pay that tax what was saved when it was imported and they may fine you beacuse of tax fraud! All that just sucks, big time

I have to find out what were the regulations of the rear seat vs cargo weight at the time of import. If I'm lucky, I don't have to lose weight from 'Burban. Big axles and t-case add quite a much weight. I could settle to 2+2 seating, lower than that is nono.

edit/ Just made a call to dmw, once again, and I was told that because those rear seats are temporary, they can be there. It's drivers responsibility to keep GVWR in allowed limits. Still, there's that big IF. Inspector may still be difficult about those seats.

If 'Burban would have regular rear seat , there is a rule that cargo weight has to be more than max allowed passengers, including driver.

 

[4x4_76]

E-brake under construction Caliber is from Saab 9000, and disc is from Peugeot GTI. Have to figure how to fab the caliber mounting bracket.

 

[4x4_76]

Just went throug regulations about glass mods, and it said that side glasses can't be replaced with plexi or polycarbonate, because on possible crash they don't shatter like glass. Guess I can replace the rear window with polycarbonate, though. Frame and hinges for that ain't to hard to do, either. Just some careful measurements and planning, and some aluminium profile to work with

But, if I decide to chop of the rear, what do I do with the glasses? They have factory tint, and I like them, but don't want to break them when cutting. Is it even possible to cut them?

 

[imiceman44]

Just went throug regulations about glass mods, and it said that side glasses can't be replaced with plexi or polycarbonate, because on possible crash they don't shatter like glass. Guess I can replace the rear window with polycarbonate, though. Frame and hinges for that ain't to hard to do, either. Just some careful measurements and planning, and some aluminium profile to work with

But, if I decide to chop of the rear, what do I do with the glasses? They have factory tint, and I like them, but don't want to break them when cutting. Is it even possible to cut them?

You can cut glass, it's not easy though.
I have done it at a glass shop back home and we rounded the edges with a grinder.

 

[4x4_76]

You can cut glass, it's not easy though.
I have done it at a glass shop back home and we rounded the edges with a grinder.

I'll take them to glass shop if/when I shorten the rear. I don't have skills nor tools to do such a job and I definetly don't wanna practice with those tinted glasses.

 

[4x4_76]

Finally I got 'Burban out from the barn I've tried to find time to move it, but always something else comes up. Last night, 8 pm I decided that now it has to be done.

I took piece of 5x5 wood, about 10' long, and a 12x6 wood 3,5' long. Then I took two ratchet straps to tie those beams to frame so that shorter beam was crosswise to longer, and that longer was parallel to frame. Then I took piece of 2x5 and palced it under the front bumper brackets, and secured it with ratchet strap. There, I got nice, wooden tow bar

Then I took two chains, and tied that tow bar to the frame of the logtrailer (don't know exact term, but the one is used to haul logs). Jumped to tractor and started it, carefully lifted the clutch and BANG, that 2x5 snapped and 'Burbans front end hit the floor. 12' forward, and it may have gone through the floor. That would've been major catastrophe because we were in a 2nd floor in our barn.

I thouhgt that was that, but after quick check, only the 2x5 was broken, everything else was fine, so I went to find some steel to replace 2x5. After that it was easy to take 'Burban out. You just don't believe how hard it is to bakcup a tractor when there's two trailers ('Burban was kind of trailer 'cause there was only rear wheels) attached each other, and there's two pivot points. It took a while to get it going straight. It was late, so I left 'Burban outside of garage, and I will move it inside tonight.

I hoped that weather would stay under 0 celsius, but no such luck, first it snowed last night, and tarp that I throw over the truck didn't cover the rear opening, so of course there was plenty of snow inside! And now weather is over 0 celsius, which means that all the snow is melted! Nice.

 

[4x4_76]

Took 1,5 hours to pull 'Burban to garage, but now it's in, nicely secured on jackstands and D60 under the front end

Thanks for the rain and wind, whole interior is wet

 

[imiceman44]

Took 1,5 hours to pull 'Burban to garage, but now it's in, nicely secured on jackstands and D60 under the front end

Thanks for the rain and wind, whole interior is wet

I can sympathise with that, I had too many projects and some of them got destroyed because i didn't get them protected in time.
Now at least you have it where you want it, and hopefully you can clean it up, dry it up before more damage occurs.

 

[4x4_76]

It's damn cold here, at least what I'm used to this winter. There is almost -16 degrees celsius (3 F) now, and weather forecast says that it might go as low as -27 celsius ( -16 F) within couple of days. And guess how warm my garage is? Pretty much same as outside temp. Won't be doing much there at this week, it would be quite cold to lie under the 'Burban on the concrete floor. And not much hope to get garage warm, 'Burban is so long that doors have to be open and covered with tarp. I have to buy a infrared heater over the worktable, at least then I have warm tools to work with.