Another C to K conversion

[4x4_76]

Why can't you modify it at all? They have some rule you must use factory part's or what?

Exactly. Suspension arms, tierods etc has to be factory made. But you can make all the mounting brackets.

 

[imiceman44]

Why can't you modify it at all? They have some rule you must use factory part's or what?

Mainly in Europe, there is a limit to what you can modify, intrestingly you can make your own mount but the parts have to be original to keep the strength of the design, they don't trust you to do your engineering because it's not safe.
And that is important if they are letting it go on the road, I don't think they have Green sticker programs or the likes. It's either street legal or it's on a farm and never goes off the farm.
Here in the states it's different, I was pleasantly surprized to see what you are allowed to do here since I was always limited in what I could fabricate legally, now I just don't have the funds.
They also have a tolerance on original manufacurers dimensions, so you can go a couple of plus sizes for tires, a couple of inches wider, etc, thus his dillemma with the van 14bff.

 

[imiceman44]

Progress has been slow. Figures, I was on my summer vacation, and had so much other things to do, that I barely had time to work with my projects.

Came up with a major problem, that 14FF I have is from a Van, and it has 6.3" wider WMS to WMS, compared to stock 12-bolt. Law allows only +-4" change on track widht. So, I have three options: get a SRW axle, cut the axel tubes and either find shorter shafts or cut'n weld shafts, or find a hubs from DRW or C&C 14FF. First one is expensive, second lot of work and third hard to find. For now I'm going on number three, hopefully I'll find hubs.

Took the 'Burban out from garage, I have to separate body from the frame and sandblast the frame and some of the body. After painting I make new brake and fuel lines.

Why not just find a SRW 14 bff, you shouldn't need to modify it since it's 2" wider than a 12bolt, unless you want the wheels and tires to be wider and want the axle to be stock width.
Wentback and read I see 1 was to get a SRW, and 2 was to modify.

 

[4x4_76]

I thought about the SRW, but after I heard the cost of it ($720), I ditched it. Those axles come from Netherlands, and they seem to be quite expensive. 4.56 gears and probably detroit, but because mine is also DD, I don't want detroit in there, real b*tch to drive on snowy/icy roads. And because I'm going with ARB, it requires thick ring gear, and stock 4.56 is thin(?).

Laws about vehicle mods are good to have, but I wish they would consider the size of the vehicle, too. Think about it, same laws with big Suburban and small Suzuki. 6" overall lift on 'Zuki has tremendous affect on off-road capability, but not so much on 'Burban. And what about tires?

I got vacuum assisted clutch mastercylinder and pedal from 60-series Toyota, need to figure out how to mount them. I have SM465 reserved, just don't have funds to redeem it yet. Hopefully I get my Dodge sold soon.

I tried to get driveshafts from local manufacturer, but 1350 CV seems to be impossible them to get, even that I send part numbers of the 1350 (yokes, cross joints). 1410 rear shaft was easy, but front one gives trouble. If they don't manage to get that 1350 CV, I may get shafts from HAD.

 

[hunterguy86]

This is one AWESOME build. I can't wait to see what this thing is gonna look like and how it's going to perform.

 

[4x4_76]

This is one AWESOME build. I can't wait to see what this thing is gonna look like and how it's going to perform.

Thanks Hopefully I get to drive it before winter, there's one place i want to drive with 'Burban, and it won't be possible within next year. Maybe in early spring, but not likely.

I ensured that I can shorten the rear, and I'll be cutting off 40cm/15,7", right next to body mount near the spring hanger. I was also going to taper the front, but still haven't figure out the fenders, so I leave it for now. Just the tilt hood'n fenders. And it tilts backward, not front like they are usually done

 

[4x4_76]

Oh man, summers gone and it's friggin cold, and it's only 2nd of September. I hope it gets little warmer, I need to paint 'Burban before winter.

I've been busy with other things, like my girlfriends car that got banned from road use because of bad brakes and emissions. And my Dodge is a real rustbucket, I have to patch lot of holes from floor and make a new rockerpanel to right. Can't sell it on that conditions

But I got something done yesterday. I lifted the body off the frame, and removed unneccessary brackets. There's still some left, like parking brake cable brackets and left upper shock mount. And also the spring hangers, I'm going to build 3" shackle flip.

Not sure yet that what kind of shock towers I'll do, but that's last of the mods.

I finally cut the frame, now it's nice and short

I have problem with fuel tank, it won't fit on the old place, and I'm going to mount winch to there anyways. I'm thinking about that empty space above the rear axle. With 1" body lift, I could build 6" tall tank that would hold about 23 gallons of diesel. With tall bumpstops axle won't hit the tank if it bottoms out, but there's still a risk.

 

[imiceman44]

Oh man, summers gone and it's friggin cold, and it's only 2nd of September. I hope it gets little warmer, I need to paint 'Burban before winter.

I've been busy with other things, like my girlfriends car that got banned from road use because of bad brakes and emissions. And my Dodge is a real rustbucket, I have to patch lot of holes from floor and make a new rockerpanel to right. Can't sell it on that conditions

But I got something done yesterday. I lifted the body off the frame, and removed unneccessary brackets. There's still some left, like parking brake cable brackets and left upper shock mount. And also the spring hangers, I'm going to build 3" shackle flip.

Not sure yet that what kind of shock towers I'll do, but that's last of the mods.

I finally cut the frame, now it's nice and short

I have problem with fuel tank, it won't fit on the old place, and I'm going to mount winch to there anyways. I'm thinking about that empty space above the rear axle. With 1" body lift, I could build 6" tall tank that would hold about 23 gallons of diesel. With tall bumpstops axle won't hit the tank if it bottoms out, but there's still a risk.

I've always thought of using that space but I found a subaru gas tank that is in a U shape so the pumpkin on the diff will clear the center of the tank.

 

[4x4_76]

Just came to my mind, that could I use front spring bracket from Blazer rear springs to create shackle flip?

 

[imiceman44]

Just came to my mind, that could I use front spring bracket from Blazer rear springs to create shackle flip?

That is the way that most people do it here.

 

[4x4_76]

I've always thought of using that space but I found a subaru gas tank that is in a U shape so the pumpkin on the diff will clear the center of the tank.

Thanks for the tip. I try to find one to see how it fits. How big it is? I'm intentionally making smaller than stock tank, because 90% of the tank volume is calculated to GVWR, and I try to get as much load capacity as possible.

I was thinking that I could make a hump above the pumpkin to clear it. And from stainless steel, so it won't corrode and start to leak.

That place is good for tank, no need for skidplate like in rear, where it gets smashed to rocks real hard

 

[imiceman44]

Thanks for the tip. I try to find one to see how it fits. How big it is? I'm intentionally making smaller than stock tank, because 90% of the tank volume is calculated to GVWR, and I try to get as much load capacity as possible.

I was thinking that I could make a hump above the pumpkin to clear it. And from stainless steel, so it won't corrode and start to leak.

That place is good for tank, no need for skidplate like in rear, where it gets smashed to rocks real hard

The one I have is from a 96 outback and it's 15.9 Gal

 

[4x4_76]

The one I have is from a 96 outback and it's 15.9 Gal

That's quite smallish on a longer safari runs... Maybe I just make custom one

I decided to freeze air suspension for a while, my budget is limited, so I'm running coils for starters. I'm try to keep KISS principle in mind

 

[imiceman44]

That's quite smallish on a longer safari runs... Maybe I just make custom one

I decided to freeze air suspension for a while, my budget is limited, so I'm running coils for starters. I'm try to keep KISS principle in mind

I am adding this 15.9 Gal tank to my 2x 20gal saddle tanks and the 40 suburban middle tank, so i will have close to 100 gallon of fuel capacity for really long trips with no fuel stops.

 

[4x4_76]

I am adding this 15.9 Gal tank to my 2x 20gal saddle tanks and the 40 suburban middle tank, so i will have close to 100 gallon of fuel capacity for really long trips with no fuel stops.

Whoa, that's a lot of fuel! I'm not 100% sure, but here that 100 gallons is close to needing a ADR-permit to drive around. That permit is needed with dangerous liquids or materials.

Made some calculations about the Suburbans weight. It has GVWR of 3170 kg (6989 lb), so I need at least 454 kg (1000 lb) for payload. So the curb weight should be less than 2716 kg (5988 lb). That payload is crucial, because I want to register it for three persons, and little over half of the payload has to be for cargo to keep it legal.

 

[imiceman44]

Whoa, that's a lot of fuel! I'm not 100% sure, but here that 100 gallons is close to needing a ADR-permit to drive around. That permit is needed with dangerous liquids or materials.

Made some calculations about the Suburbans weight. It has GVWR of 3170 kg (6989 lb), so I need at least 454 kg (1000 lb) for payload. So the curb weight should be less than 2716 kg (5988 lb). That payload is crucial, because I want to register it for three persons, and little over half of the payload has to be for cargo to keep it legal.

Well I think here $100 gallon is the limit, but then again who will know.

 

[4x4_76]

Couple of videos of happenings I'm intending to participate

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me_Nc3sprOo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0MSlzst-Mk&mode=related&search=

 

[4x4_76]

Last night, when I went to bed and tried to get some sleep, it struck my mind... 20/2500 series Suburban has 14SF axle, right? So, maybe it's wider too, WMS to WMS. Little search on garage, found this -> http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135125&page=2&highlight=14sf

And there it was, 14SF WMS to WMS, 68". Then I double check from 14-bolt bible Van axle widht, 70". Excellent, difference is 2" so I can use that Van axle as it is, at least for now I won't change the hubs.

Because Suburban was available from factory with wider axle than what I have now, I can use that as a comparison. As I mentioned earlier, to keep it legal, WMS to WMS can be changed +-4" over stock.

And I found even more WMS numbers -> http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65379&page=2

GM Dana 60 front (single wheel) ...................69"

GM Dana 60 front (dual rear wheel) ..............77" ; +4" on each side vs single wheel

GM 14 Bolt rear FF (single wheel) ....................67"

GM 14 Bolt rear FF (dual wheel)........................63"

GM 14 Bolt rear SemiF (single wheel) ..............66"

GM Dana 44 Front (single wheel) ..............69"8-lug; 67" 6-lug

GM 10 bolt front (single wheel) ..............69" 8"lug; 67" 6-lug

GM 14 Bolt rear (Van single wheel) ...............70"

GM 10 & 12 bolt rear ..................... 65"

Hmm... I'm confused, that chart says that 14SF has 66" WMS to WMS, but on the other post was 68"? But still, I'm good to go with Van axle

 

[4x4_76]

Just a thought, but probably I'll have some clearance issues with drag link, so what if I move engine towards firewall, 1" or so? It would be just drilling a couple of holes, and since the tranny x-member is not done yet, that wouldn't be a problem either. Just can't make any measures because the body is lifted off the frame. I'm gonna make 1" bodylift to clear the fuel tank, rear shock mounts and t-case. Does that make any difference to engine to firewall clearance?

 

[imiceman44]

Just a thought, but probably I'll have some clearance issues with drag link, so what if I move engine towards firewall, 1" or so? It would be just drilling a couple of holes, and since the tranny x-member is not done yet, that wouldn't be a problem either. Just can't make any measures because the body is lifted off the frame. I'm gonna make 1" bodylift to clear the fuel tank, rear shock mounts and t-case. Does that make any difference to engine to firewall clearance?

I will check for you on the clearance to firewall.
1" might be OK but I know I tried before to move 4" and it was not even possible.
I will see if I can get you this today.
The fact you will be raising the body will help too