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Another lame build thread

Nice Build, can't wait to see how it turns out!

One problem. You southwest guys are not allowed to complain about rust anymore. In the opposite side of the country, the lower 8 inches of that truck would be missing. Just plain gone. A truck out here with "very little rust" only needs new inner/outer rockers and floors. Sorry for the rant, carry on.
 
496truck said:
You southwest guys are not allowed to complain about rust anymore.
Click to expand...


Sure we can. When im done complaining about the rust i'll go into my blog from my iPhone and rant that my Mocha latte half frap double whip extra sauce coffee was too bland and 5* too cold.
And they wouldn't refund my money after i turned my nose up at it!


Hated it!
in-living-color.jpg
 
This weekend i got a fair amount done with the help of some friends yesterday.

I picked up some 2x4" mild steel that i thought was 3/16" thick, but i never measured it. Come to find out its 1/4" wall, so besides being really heavy, it should be plenty strong as long as it dosent crush under its own weight.

Step 1: build headache bar.
I already had the back of the frame cut off behind the cab. A lot of people i see weld a support bar under the frame that goes from one side to the other. While this may be really strong for rock sliders and taking bottom loads, in the case of a rollover it would have no support other than a weld to the questionable frame. So i decided to use a piece of the 2x4 inside the frame, i notched the frame slightly and slid the bar in, so it is supported on the top and bottom.
bed001.jpg

bed004.jpg


It will also be welded to the rock slider on the bottom, but that will come later.

I made a preliminary cut to the bed and tacked the front end on but i am going to be moving it forward against the headache bar.
bed021.jpg

When i cut the bed i was planning on using 2x6 bar for the hoop, but chose to use 2x4 instead.

The rock sliders are 2x6 1/4" wall. I didnt have time to run supports to the frame last night so they are just welded to the sheetmetal and to the rear hoop.
Before:
bed013.jpg

bed012.jpg


I chose to cut off enough metal to allow the rock slider to fit under an unmodified door. Its close, but it fits!
bed018.jpg


bed023.jpg



bed024.jpg



Likely i'll weld a tube to the edge of the slider so it protrudes a little more but i dunno yet. That will probably be determined when i do the front of the cage.

I cut about 32" out of the bed.
bed020.jpg



And the beauty queen so far...
bed022.jpg
 
This weekend i had a little bit of time to work on it. All i got done was the orbital valve mounting.

Ok, so i have no idea how other people mount theirs and i couldnt find any pictures that helped much so took it step by step and just solved the issues as they arose.

first step, ditch the stock steering components.
thats easy enough.
Then i decided i wanted the valve as close to the firewall as possible. Fewer linkage mounting points and all that.
I got a kit from Poly Performance and stuff didnt fit as i thought it should.
This isnt bashing Poly, as i have never done this before, but i figured things are designed to mount in some other configuration than what i had come up with. How they were designed to mount, i have no idea. Also the pump i got is nowhere near the correct bolt pattern to my factory ps pump bracket. I'll need to call them to see what up and if they sell the correct bracket.

Firstly the little adapter that goes from the valve to the steering shaft is a 1" shaft, turned down to 1.75" round. Well, the steering shaft on my truck is 1.75" round with two flats, that are 1.5" and a hole in the middle. I dont know why Poly didnt mill the shaft with the two flats and drill the hole, so i took care of that by myself.
steering010.jpg


Yeah i know, im no machinist. but atleast it fits and is a snug fit even without the bolt so i think it'll work fine.

Once i had the adapter fitting the shaft i set out to make a mounting base for the valve. Again, with no experience to draw from i just took it one step at a time.
the adapter has 4 tabs on it which make mounting a plate to the face of it a very tight fit. I wanted my mount to be beefy and i had some 3/8" 1018 plate so i was going to use that. I didnt want to mill down the plate to fit between the tabs on the adapter, so i just cut them off.
Here is 3 cut off with one left that you can see.
steering003.jpg


steering002.jpg


Then i made a mounting plate to fit the face of the adapter.
steering001.jpg


steering004.jpg


Here i am test fitting some parts.
I think im balding a little...
steering005.jpg


and here is what i came up with.
steering006.jpg


I was going to weld it directly to the frame, but thought i might need to remove it for some reason in the future, so i added a plate to the bottom that gets bolted on. The frame will be welded to this bottom plate, then the box for the valve gets bolted to the bottom plate.
Sturdy, beefy 3/8" steel, and removable.
steering009.jpg


steering011.jpg


Now its time to run some lines!
steering012.jpg
 
y5mgisi said:
What about frame flex?
Click to expand...

whoops. didnt think of that.

the body is welded to the frame with the rock sliders and will have a full exo cage so hopefully flex wont be an issue. I suppose it depends on how well built my exo is.
Also i noticed the steering shaft has some play in it. I guess i should have mounted the valve to the body instead huh. I'll have to remember that when its time to do the K5, cause it wont have an exo or sliders.
 
skark_burmer said:
whoops. didnt think of that.
Click to expand...

Just take the clip and bushing off of the end on the steering column. It will provide for plenty of wiggle room, but will still be supported by the valve. If there is already a little play in the end, that bushing is worn anyway.
 
no updates recently but i need to get back to work on it.
Ive been too busy with snowmobiles and buying M1008's, M1009,s and M1028's. Good beater trucks and cheap!
 
Skark, cool builds...can't wait to see the finished products. Where are you finding good deals on M1008's, M1009,s and M1028's? I'm up here near Seattle and all the ones I see are either way too much or way too far away.
 
must.....have.....updates
hahaha
:zombie15:uuuuuupppp daaaaaaatessssssss
 
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