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Another M1008 NV4500 swap question

DukeBoy88

1/2 ton status
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Just won a NV4500 auction from a guy who did the swap on a 86 long bed. pretty much everything is there including bellhousing,transfer case and crossmember except hydro clutch stuff and flywheel. what other engines used the same flywheel as the 6.2? need to find one for a core charge. Also would like recomendations on clutches, this will be going in my M1008 with banks sidewinder, and I plan on adding an intercooler in the future and hopefully a little more power. I've used centerforce and zoom in cars but this will be my first manual diesel truck. Also this trans came out of '95 truck, was '94 the last year for the lower 1st gear? or is there a way to identify this from the outside? thanks in advance, I'm sure I'll be asking more once I start the install or maybe the rebuild if it needs it.
 
DukeBoy88 said:
Just won a NV4500 auction from a guy who did the swap on a 86 long bed. pretty much everything is there including bellhousing,transfer case and crossmember except hydro clutch stuff and flywheel. what other engines used the same flywheel as the 6.2? need to find one for a core charge. Also would like recomendations on clutches, this will be going in my M1008 with banks sidewinder, and I plan on adding an intercooler in the future and hopefully a little more power. I've used centerforce and zoom in cars but this will be my first manual diesel truck. Also this trans came out of '95 truck, was '94 the last year for the lower 1st gear? or is there a way to identify this from the outside? thanks in advance, I'm sure I'll be asking more once I start the install or maybe the rebuild if it needs it.

The 6.2/6.5 is the only engine using the flywheel needed, so for a core that will be what you need, unless you can run any other flywheel by the idiots on the counter.
Sometimes you are lucky and find some really inexperienced people and they will take anything that kinda looks the same and has the same general dimensions.
:D
 
You have the same year/model of NV4500 I do. It would have the 5.61:1 first gear and the one piece countershaft. The '93 and '94 models got the 6.34:1 first gear and a two piece countershaft.

Rene
 
Yeah I thought about using another flywheel for a core, I'll have to see how simular they are and return it seperately. any clutch recomendations? The hydraulic clutch setup, do I order the master and cylinder for a '95 truck? looking at the bellhousing does it mount under the starter?
 
If you have the factory NV4500 bell then yes, you should order for a '95 3/4 ton pick-up.

I used the Hays "Diesel Super Truck" clutch. It's 12 1/8" or 12 1/4" diameter (can't remember which anymore) and is meant for heavy towing and puller trucks. Even with the hydro clutch you can feel it's a fairly heavy clutch...but it is very smooth so far. My first choice was the Luk Pro-Gold, but I couldn't find a local supplier anywhere.

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Rene
 
Summit has 2 different Hays super truck clutches, one for 6.2 and another for 6.5. they have different part numbers. anyone know what the difference is? Also the parts stores have flywheels ranging from $36 w/$80 core (remanufactured standard) 1yr warranty (casting # 14022675 or # 14050525 ) to $132 (new perfection) 1yr warranty (casting# # 14050525) to $187 (new Luk) 1yr warranty (no casting # mentioned) to even more for the same brands. how many teeth am I looking for? they weren't all the same. and is there a brand to avoid? I know perfection is china, not sure on the others. and the 2 castings, is there a difference? thanks inadvance.
 
I'm pretty sure the one for the 6.5 might be meant for a dual mass flywheel which should be avoided from what I hear.

Rene
 
Ok the tranny is in everything is back together but the clutch doesn't seem to engage. rear wheels are on stands and they only slowly spin, I bled the slave cylinder and the clutch fork doesn't seem to move any further forward. are there different size throwout bearings for this application, and is mine possibly too tall? could the grease from inside the bearing have gotten onto the clutch surface and spun? I'm not sure what-where to check, any suggestions? getting frustrated. thanks in advance.
 
Last time I had this problem I had improperly installed the throwout bearing on the clutch fork.
 
The clutch I installed is a Hay's supertruck or superbrute from jegs for a 92-95 6.5L (part#490-90-101) , Should I of ordered for my year truck ('85) instead of the year of the tranny ('95)? It bolted up without any trouble and appeared to clamp well onto the disc.
 
You have the same year/model of NV4500 I do. It would have the 5.61:1 first gear and the one piece countershaft. The '93 and '94 models got the 6.34:1 first gear and a two piece countershaft.

Rene


I thought it was the '92-'94 trucks....???
 
I don't have any pics or extra clutch parts laying around to take new ones to show you what I did wrong. It's kinda hard to put into words.

Basically I did not snap the spring retainer of the clutch fork into the slot but onto the back of the slot in the throwout bearing. So when pressure was applied to the clutch fork and transfered to the throwout, I found the spring was actually bending away from the clutch fork and the throwout bearing wasn't moving.
 
it should be '95 as well, which is what I was told but didn't check. if there are numbers on it I could go look.
 
I would say if your bell, clutch and flywheel are all for the '95 model it should work when bleed out properly.
 
I removed the slave cylinder completely after reading petersen's 4wheel article again where they did the same swap and ran into a problem with the slave rod being too long so they shortened it. But the clutch still slips. looks like I'll be removing the tranny again, I'm getting kind of good at now. hopefully I just installed the throwout wrong, how do I check for proper function with the tranny off but the bellhousing on, is there a way? I don't have a spare input shaft unfortunatly.
 
If you can post a pic of how you attached the throw out to the clutch fork we can tell you if its on there properly.

Also have you verified how far the slave cylinder moves when you push the pedal? I've never had good luck bleeding the clutches by myself until I attached the vacuum bleeder to the top of the system and bleed it backwards. What did you use to bleed it?
 
I'd look at air in the slave before dropping the tranny yet again. I bench bled my clutch master, then tried to bleed the slave manually...and had no luck. i eventually submerged the entire slave in fluid and cycled it repeatedly until I saw no more bubbles. That got my clutch working properly.

Reverse vacuum bled is probably even easier. i didn't have any fancy power bleeders or anything handy though.

Rene
 
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