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Another M1008 NV4500 swap question

I didn't have too much trouble bleeding the slave, but I now have it removed and the clutch still doesn't engage. I don't think there's any free movement of the throwout bearing, correct me but when disengaged the bearing shouldn't touch the clutch fingers. I'm wondering if the difference between the 2 clutch set ups ('85 & '95) is the height of the throwout, I've read about a tall and short bearing for chevy's. I'll post a photo after the tranny's out.
 
Didn't find anything obvious when I pulled the tranny, however the clutch fork my have gotten hung up on the inside of the bell, I know what to check during the install now. here's a photo of the throwout in the fork, let me know if it's wrong. Some good news, I have the removal down to 1hr working at a comfortable pace by myself, without any beer. not bad.

IMG_5176.JPG
 
DukeBoy88 said:
Didn't find anything obvious when I pulled the tranny, however the clutch fork my have gotten hung up on the inside of the bell, I know what to check during the install now. here's a photo of the throwout in the fork, let me know if it's wrong. Some good news, I have the removal down to 1hr working at a comfortable pace by myself, without any beer. not bad.
Click to expand...

Looks like you did the exact same thing I did and installed the throwout bearing incorrectly! Easy fix though. The tabs you have behind the throwout bearing actually should be inside the slot otherwise it won't do its job.
 
Yes, that looks correct. The other way the tabs will bend until the clutchfork hits the far side of the throwout bearing slot. This takes out some of the travel and doesn't allow the clutch to fully disengage.
 
Cool, thanks man, I'll start the reinstall, doubt I'll get done before work but I'll post results tomorrow, thanks again!! CK5 members rule!
 
I just got my luk clutch in last week and it had a note about that with illustrations to show you how to avoid it, seems like something all the clutch companies should do.

Until they do, however, CK5 will save us from ourselves!
 
It just keeps getting better!! Turns out the throwout wasn't my only problem. the '95 clutch doesn't work with the '85 flywheel. the '95 non-dual mass flywheel has a raised area where the clutch disk rides on, the '85 is flat. so the clutch wasn't able to put full pressure on the disk. I am planning on returning my '85 flywheel for a '95 non-dual mass unit since I got that locally. I can't find a reason why it wouldn't bolt on and work but is there any other problems with balancing that I'm not considering? will a '95 6.5l diesel flywheel work on a '85 6.2?
the other option is to purchase a '85 clutch kit, but my current one probobly can't be returned to jegs as easily and I'd be waiting longer.
thanks in advance.
 
I don't know if there would be any problems or not with changing flywheels. I do know they did change from the 2 piece rear main seal to a 1 piece rear main seal somewhere around '92. I just don't know if they changed the bolt pattern on the flywheel like they did with the small blocks when changing to the 1 piece rear main.
 
I would assume swapping the clutch kit out would be easier. I'd also assume the bolt pattern for the flywheel would be different.

The throwout bearing is designed to ride up against the clutch fingers BTW. I wasn't happy with that either and rigged up a small return spring to help pull the throw out bearing away from the disc fingers.

Rene
 
I have a '95 non-dual mass flywheel bolted to a '85 6.2 from a m1009, waiting to go with a nv4500, and an advance adapters mechanical clutch bell housing into a 1947 chevy two-ton. As per my research there are no balancing issues.
 
thankyou big blazer, with snow coming this weekend looks like I should be ok.

Rene, how did you rig the spring return?
 
tRustyK5 said:
You have the same year/model of NV4500 I do. It would have the 5.61:1 first gear and the one piece countershaft. The '93 and '94 models got the 6.34:1 first gear and a two piece countershaft.

Rene
Click to expand...


Rene, I have to ask.... I believe it's '92-'94. Someone double check me on this.
 
Ok that didn't work either, the picture they had at the parts store didn't sync with what they got in, there was no raised surface so the clutch still wouldn't of grabbed. This clutch isn't supposed to be for a dual-mass but that appears to be what it bolts to. I called Jegs told them it was my fault, told them I didn't have the packaging, told them I had installed it but didn't run it, they said no problem on returning it for exchange and the correct one will be here saturday. I'm impressed.
 
clutch came, install went well, everything's good. It feels like like I have to re-learn how to drive my truck though. couldn't resist breaking the swampers loose in 1st, I know I need to break in the clutch first but I was egged on. snowing now, I finished just in time. will update after i put some miles on.
 
I've put some miles on it and I should of done this swap a long time ago, maybe before the turbo, it's that much better. my mileage is better, I haven't figured out exactly how much. merging while towing is so much easier and I can hear the radio at highway speed. didn't even consider how much easier it is to start without a TC. next I'm going to replace the swampers with some general grabber 2's, since I'll be driving this more on road now.
 
I'm about to do the same swap here, any hints or tips to offer about the install other than the clutch stuff? What did you use for a crossmember? Driveshafts custom, or is there a set of factory shafts that work?
 
The crossmember I got came with the tranny, looks like the same one from my 88 K5. the driveshafts I reused, the NV4500 is only a 1/4" longer than the TH400. I used the stock bellhousing, my front doesn't flex much. so I had to use the '95 slave cylinder and the '85 master. the line inbetween I had to fabricate. I couldn't make the fitting needed for the slave end even with a $400 master cool flare set, so I had to buy the $95 line from the dealer and hack off the end of it. also the banks exaust makes it very tight to tilt the engine back to install the NV4500. Also the shifter interferes with the mount for the NP208 shifter and has to be cut. If I think of any more I'll post later.
 
What adapter did you use between the nv4500 and the np208?
Since there is no need to change drive shafts and I have a spare nv4500 for a 4x4, I am now considering a 5-speed instead of putting in a th700 in place of the th400.
 
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