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Another NP208 NP241 Clocking Thread!

Thanks for all the info Brent. I wish I could swing the SYE right now but with the kit, new rear shaft, yoke, ect that'd be near a grand that I don't have to put in it. If you stumble on that tail cone give me a shout, I'll gladly take it off your hands.

I'll have to go back and see if I can find pictures of your support rod, I don't remember seeing what you did with it.
 
I was running through prices for SYE stuff and got to wondering about a front drive shaft. If I have to have a new drive shaft in the front, I want to go on to a 1350 shaft with a CV. I was wondering if the 1310 CV flange will accept the 1350 CV yoke or if I have to change it. I've been googling it for about 30 min but can't find any info or even a front output spline count for the NP241.

I want to wind up with 1350 shafts front and rear so I have fewer spare u-joints to carry and everything is plenty strong. I can get the 1350 u-bolt style yokes for both the 10 and 12 bolt axles too.
 
I don't remember changing my flange when I went to 1350. I'll look for that tail cone and ask the driveline shop if they ended up with it. It's a shot in the dark but easy enough to ask.

Used a piece of 3/16" steel. Drilled 4 holes and bolted it to T-case. You can also move the rod down one hole on the bell housing if it helps clear the floor pan. I'm running a 1" body lift, so it wasn't necessary.


 
My brace rod was already on the bottom bellhousing bolt. I'll stick it back on and make up a plate like that, thanks. I had petty well decided to run without it but I'd rather have it if I could.
 
yeah, I would do everything in my power to run one, just helps hold the case while the driveshafts tries to break it. :thumb:

good luck!
 
Does everyone run a 1" body lift? My crossmember is going to be below the frame the way it sits and I'm not sure I've gained enough clearance the way it sits to be with this much effort.

I really dread having to put on the body lift with the condition of this thing but I'm not sure where to go at this point. I'm going to jack everything up a bit and see how it fits in the tunnel.
 
I have no body lift with 4" suspension lift. I recently clocked my 208 all the way up.

For the linkage modification I copied MRK5 and made a box to raise my shifter 2". This allowed me to use to stock linkage but I still had to adjust it.

On your main build thread I recommended rerouting your speedometer cable. If you keep it where it is it could potentially get in a bind between the linkage and front driveshaft. I also posted fluid capacities there too.

I didn't realize you had this thread going.

On my rig I also had to have my rear driveshaft shortened 1" to fit properly.

I know K85 recommended welding the unused holes to prevent them from leaking. I asked Kert about this and he said NO, do not do this because you may warp the clocking ring. Kert said to get some gasket making material and make a few ring gaskets and use a light coat of The Right Stuff.

I followed Kerts advise and it worked well.

In my sig below there is a link to my "Junkyard Jimmy" thread and on the last few pages are my clocking the 208 pics and activities.
 
I checked it out a bit ago, looks good!

I figured out the body lift issue, I was looking art MRK5's crew cab thread, then it dawned on me, his frame is thicker is why mine looks like it hangs down further. I'm squared away and moving along on the crossmember.
 
Interesting way of doing it. I like it, but are you going to run some extra protection for the T-case as well?

And as for the welding idea, I really can't see a piece of 3/8" (or thicker) steel warping from a little welding, but I also mentioned surfacing it afterwords. That's neither here nor there as I didn't do that or the gasket material, I just used The Right Stuff for it all. Hasn't leaked yet, but if it does I'll go from there.

Odd how much stuff we buy doesn't include directions, they just come from other people's opinions off the internet.

Lifting the box sounds nifty cause it also puts it closer to the driver. If you run a body lift, the linkage angle wont be as bad, so lifting the box or modifying the linkage wont be as aggressive. It took some checking and rechecking before I completed my linkage, but it shifts silky smooth. If the body mounts are questionable, then I guess the BL will have to wait till later.....after you break a few mounts LOL. I love my BL, not just for tire clearance, but the extra room under the tub. Clearance around the trans, frame, gas tank, etc is nice....for working on and cleaning mud out too :D
 
K85 Octane said:
Interesting way of doing it. I like it, but are you going to run some extra protection for the T-case as well?
Click to expand...

I've been considering going from the center of it between the mount bolts back behind the case the 90 over to the frame. Then put something under it for a skid.

I've consider a full belly plate too, but I'm not sure how to pull that off yet. I've got to get the crossmember worked out before I decide which way to go.
 
sounds good
I've been ready for a skid plate for a while now, just haven't put on on lol. At least the crossmember will protect it till then. I bought some aluminum for it, but I'm thinking now it's not thick enough. :(
 
Got a lot of welding done on the cross member done today and the holes drilled in it. I think I'm going to go with 1/2" bolts and drill out the holes to 9/16" for some wiggle room. I've got to trim the edges to match the frame contour, cap the ends of the tubes and paint it now. I've also got to drop out the NP241 and get the NP208 back in and sealed up.

Another long sunny day and I should be ready to go there. I've got to order my shifter and figure something out for the exhaust.
 
Chain is about a foot longer than it should be and the tail cone is cracked. My NP208 is in really good shape so I'll run it while I rebuild the NP241 and do a SYE on it. I just can't afford to rebuild it right now. Too much other stuff needs attention.
 
I need to get off my @$$ and finish this. Hoping to get some done tomorrow, but that depends on the weather.
 
I'm wanting to see the finished product too. You have me thinking. ...
 
Got the tube caps welded on and most of the grinding done. I've got to hit it with a flap wheel to knock the splatter and stuff off then lather it up with some Rustoleum! Gotta get Julie to help me drop the 241 and put the 208 back in.

I think I need to take the clocking ring to work and sink the counter sinks a little deeper to bring the bolt heads down flush.
 
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