Lunatic
1/2 ton status
Yep - Another hoist thread. This one is a different animal though.
Firstly, I'd like to thank Craig Artzner for his posting of his hoist install years ago. I was actually looking into pulley reduction math to do the same project when I found his thread. It was cake from there.
For many reasons, however (Mainly the attic time spent), I waited 2 years later to finally do the project. The trigger for my decision was dumping my shell last year while putting it back on. That was the straw.
Any hoist install is going to be different per the installer and the location's space and structure. I didnt like the idea of applying what I felt was 1000 lbs (ever drop your shell and try to catch it ?) to my attic joists, or my wall studs. So I thought everything over, according to Craig's installations (both of them) and made a few changes. What follows is what I will admit is over kill - But better over done than not enough, and have a ceiling collapse.
I think my install adds a cool new twist. So, I thought I'd share the tweaked install with everyone.
Close quarters......
I rocked my truck back and forth before deciding this loop would hold the shell. Its simply a 5/8 steel sleeve that I crushed once I liked the loop dimensions.
The change in design....
Safety.
The front of the shell, being at the rear of the pulley system, is last to rise while raising. You constantly need to adjust the shell to level while raising it off the truck. But, once you are leveled off and free, it can easily "run away" if bumped or adjusted carelessly - Sending the shell rear to the ground and front to the ceiling. I placed a zip tie to each pulley at the front of the shell to prevent pulley roll. The zip tie is very effective being so close to the pulley - I could no longer adjust the shell's level from front to rear.
A "per installation / location" option - My ceiling is too low to leave it hanging. Even though my car will fit under it.
Swiveling casters at the front and fixed casters at the rear. I installed them using wingnuts for easier / quicker install to the 2x6.
These bolts were counter sunk (drilled) on the head side so the bolt head doesnt contact the truck bed. The nuts were counter sunk as well. This created the "stud" you see above - Which I found out was a good idea to have fastened. With the constant angle and adjustment of the shell while lifting it off the truck, the shell will slide any given direction. This shell is secured, leaving me to watch other points of interest which needed monitoring. A wingnut once again does the job.
The attic. The shortest vertical brace to the longest - 14.5", 23", 35". Theres one installed near each eyebolt. Finding a way to make leverage for a 3" screw at the shortest brace was.... Interesting. I spent 2 evenings in the attic - About 6 + 6 hours each night.
Right above the sheetrock is a cut 2x4 crossing joist to joist - I installed each (6 total) about 1/4" above the surface. These boards prevent the eyebolts from swinging through the sheetrock and creating a larger hole down below.
The top 2x4 crosses numerous joists from eyebolt to eyebolt, and is secured to each joist it contacts. An additional nut (not seen) is installed on each eyebolt, under the 2x4 and snug fitted. The eyebolts can be rotated with minimal effort if necessary from the garage floor. Not only does this 2x4 serve as the mounting surface for the eyebolts, but it also provides a second point of contact which keeps the eyebolts completely steady and solid.
Off to the side until the cold returns.
Now that this project is done - Its time to start the season of the lawn.
The winch, rope, pulleys - everything - Put away. The casters have their own identical bag. A two bag foot print when the shell is installed on the truck is defintely manageable.
A type of carriage bolt is used to cover the holes and anchors. It has a flat top instead of coned.
Questions / comments welcome.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
Firstly, I'd like to thank Craig Artzner for his posting of his hoist install years ago. I was actually looking into pulley reduction math to do the same project when I found his thread. It was cake from there.
For many reasons, however (Mainly the attic time spent), I waited 2 years later to finally do the project. The trigger for my decision was dumping my shell last year while putting it back on. That was the straw.
Any hoist install is going to be different per the installer and the location's space and structure. I didnt like the idea of applying what I felt was 1000 lbs (ever drop your shell and try to catch it ?) to my attic joists, or my wall studs. So I thought everything over, according to Craig's installations (both of them) and made a few changes. What follows is what I will admit is over kill - But better over done than not enough, and have a ceiling collapse.
I think my install adds a cool new twist. So, I thought I'd share the tweaked install with everyone.
Close quarters......
I rocked my truck back and forth before deciding this loop would hold the shell. Its simply a 5/8 steel sleeve that I crushed once I liked the loop dimensions.
The change in design....
Safety.
The front of the shell, being at the rear of the pulley system, is last to rise while raising. You constantly need to adjust the shell to level while raising it off the truck. But, once you are leveled off and free, it can easily "run away" if bumped or adjusted carelessly - Sending the shell rear to the ground and front to the ceiling. I placed a zip tie to each pulley at the front of the shell to prevent pulley roll. The zip tie is very effective being so close to the pulley - I could no longer adjust the shell's level from front to rear.
A "per installation / location" option - My ceiling is too low to leave it hanging. Even though my car will fit under it.
Swiveling casters at the front and fixed casters at the rear. I installed them using wingnuts for easier / quicker install to the 2x6.
These bolts were counter sunk (drilled) on the head side so the bolt head doesnt contact the truck bed. The nuts were counter sunk as well. This created the "stud" you see above - Which I found out was a good idea to have fastened. With the constant angle and adjustment of the shell while lifting it off the truck, the shell will slide any given direction. This shell is secured, leaving me to watch other points of interest which needed monitoring. A wingnut once again does the job.
The attic. The shortest vertical brace to the longest - 14.5", 23", 35". Theres one installed near each eyebolt. Finding a way to make leverage for a 3" screw at the shortest brace was.... Interesting. I spent 2 evenings in the attic - About 6 + 6 hours each night.
Right above the sheetrock is a cut 2x4 crossing joist to joist - I installed each (6 total) about 1/4" above the surface. These boards prevent the eyebolts from swinging through the sheetrock and creating a larger hole down below.
The top 2x4 crosses numerous joists from eyebolt to eyebolt, and is secured to each joist it contacts. An additional nut (not seen) is installed on each eyebolt, under the 2x4 and snug fitted. The eyebolts can be rotated with minimal effort if necessary from the garage floor. Not only does this 2x4 serve as the mounting surface for the eyebolts, but it also provides a second point of contact which keeps the eyebolts completely steady and solid.
Off to the side until the cold returns.
Now that this project is done - Its time to start the season of the lawn.
The winch, rope, pulleys - everything - Put away. The casters have their own identical bag. A two bag foot print when the shell is installed on the truck is defintely manageable.
A type of carriage bolt is used to cover the holes and anchors. It has a flat top instead of coned.
Questions / comments welcome.
Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
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The only gain I could come up with is the pulley reduction in the second configuration. The winch would have the same amount of rope on it either way; right ?
