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anti-wrap bars

87 Blue Beast

1/2 ton status
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
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Location
York, Pa
started these friday and they are comming along pretty well. i got a couple bushings, anti-wrap brackets, and tabs from DIY4X, and a couple lengths of square tubing from a local steel shop and this is what i have so far. cybrfire, do these pieces look familiar? :D

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The only criticism I can give is from the research I have done its better to have on the pass side for a few reasons. For one the diff is offset to the driver side more so you can get your traction bar more centers on the pass side and also since the passenger side is the more power side its best to have it there too because of the whole physics of the way the truck wants to roll to that side more under power. Otherwise though it looks really good. I'd definately install a grease zerk or two to keep those inner slidding pieces lubed
 
yes, there is two. im working on the other side right now. btw, there are grease zerks on the sliding pieces, 3 of them to be exact :wink1:
 
Weld up your axle tubes to the center section unless you feel like spinning a tube ;)


thats also in the plans since im going to be pulling with it. as far as i know, you have to heat the cast with a torch before you weld it to the steel tubes. i want to make sure im doing it right before i actually do it.
 
looks good but with a pair of bars isn't it going to bind when the axle is flexed? If only one bar was used in the middle of the truck then it would be fine but a pair is going to want to bind since they are wanting to go in different directions.
 
no, these will move more than my suspension will flex. they are in poly bushings on one and a 3/4" heim joint on the other. they move pretty good. plus, im not planning on flexing much anyway
 
thats also in the plans since im going to be pulling with it. as far as i know, you have to heat the cast with a torch before you weld it to the steel tubes. i want to make sure im doing it right before i actually do it.


I've heard two different opinions: preheat and TIG with Nickle rod and just hit it with the MIG.

I tried just using the MIG with no preheat and it worked well, no cracking or anything. I know many people that this has worked for and it worked fine for me.
 
I've heard two different opinions: preheat and TIG with Nickle rod and just hit it with the MIG.

I tried just using the MIG with no preheat and it worked well, no cracking or anything. I know many people that this has worked for and it worked fine for me.

Just did mine last week with a Lincoln 175 flux core. Welded the cast and flowed into the tube, and it worked great for me.
 
Is that an '85 Z28 I see in the background? Looks nice, I have a few of those cars myself.
 
did you just use regular .035 flux core wire? thats all i use is a little 110 flux core welder...


yeah i was using .035 wire, but on a 220v welder. The 110 might do it if you crank it up. Try a small bead and see how it works.
 
yeah i was using .035 wire, but on a 220v welder. The 110 might do it if you crank it up. Try a small bead and see how it works.


yeah, thats what im thinking. i dont know if it will have enough balls to lay that big of a bead. it was struggling to do 3/16 and 1/4 flat steel.

USSkoval, that car is deciving. its actually an 86 (easy way to tell, 86 is the only year that the 3rd brake light was mounted on the outside of the windshield instead of inside) with a 91 front clip. it has a mild 350 in it (78 vette block, flat tops, edel. intake and carb, rv cam, hei, headers and flowmaster exhaust). it will be somewhere around 300 horse after we get another cam in there. its actually my dads car..
 
ok, i think they are basically done. just have to go over everything and tighten all the bolts. ill make a list of everything i used and a total ammount of $ incase your woundering what it takes. let me know what you think..

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