any heads up for the ez inch

[losenj]

getting ready to throw in the ez inch just wondering what problems people had moving the axle forward the 1.5". 10/14ff with 1' body 35's

 

[truck-oholic]

If you are using shims to correct caster and have a thicker spring pack it can cause issues with the spring plate. It is fixable with drilling/grinding. Are you trying to reuse a stock spring plate or are you using some of DIY4X's plates or similar?

 

[K85 Octane]

and make sure if you are using an aftermarket U-bolt plate that has the proper hole for the 1.5". The two different companies I used were only set up for 1" movement, so I had to elongate the hole 1/2".

Make sure the radius edge is against the leaves. If you are running a shim, you might think about sending the EZ Inchers back and having Kert cut the degree into them. Make sure he knows which way you plan to run them. This is what I did on my fronts, 5* cut into the block instead of running shims. Much better

 

[truck-oholic]

If you are running a shim, you might think about sending the EZ Inchers back and having Kert cut the degree into them. Make sure he knows which way you plan to run them. This is what I did on my fronts, 5* cut into the block instead of running shims. Much better

Hmmm, this has me thinking about doing this myself. I didn't really like the idea of stacking the ez inch on the shim but I didn't know of this other option either.

 

[K85 Octane]

You can bolt the shim to the center pin on the block, then the pin's head goes into the perch on the axle. The offset pin goes from the block, up through the leaves, and fastened with the nut.

Ignore the shim on the top. In this pic, you can see my block is tapered. If it wasn't, the shim would be bolted to the block via the center bolt. The center bolt (since I have it offset forward) would only be holding the shim and block together. The center pin is what goes into the perch to help hold the axle.

The offset pin (the one that goes through the leaves) bolts to the other offset hole in the block.

On mine, the center pin is only there for the axle. It's only 1/2" long and holds nothing together.

 

[sweetk30]

push pull stock steering might not like it .

I have read some guys have to modify the drag link a lot.

 

[K85 Octane]

push pull stock steering might not like it .

I have read some guys have to modify the drag link a lot.

That's the biggest CON to the blocks is running a shorter draglink.

I totally forget that push/pull steering even existed

 

[skunked]

push pull stock steering might not like it .

I have read some guys have to modify the drag link a lot.

With the 10 bolt and push pull I had to make the drag link longer by using two of the longer halves of the drag link mated together.

 

[K85 Octane]

Wait, how did it get longer?

 

[skunked]

Wait, how did it get longer?

The stock drag link has a short end and long end with a coupler. I used two of the long ends coupled together so it was another inch or two longer.

 

[K85 Octane]

lol hold on, I understand how you made it longer, but why was it necessary to make it longer. I would think moving the axle forward 1.5", which is towards the steering box, would also make the draglink 1.5" shorter.

what am I missing, I can't picture it any other way

 

[skunked]

lol hold on, I understand how you made it longer, but why was it necessary to make it longer. I would think moving the axle forward 1.5", which is towards the steering box, would also make the draglink 1.5" shorter.

what am I missing, I can't picture it any other way

May have been too short now that I think about it. Either way it wouldn't work with the stock drag link as I couldn't turn harder than 15-20 degrees one direction.

 

[Stomis]

Yeah I had to trim my draglink ends when I had push pull with the axle forward.

 

[sweetk30]

and how did you correctly get the threads to clamp the sleave ?

there 1 left and 1 right thread for the sleve / turnbuckle to work .

 

[skunked]

and how did you correctly get the threads to clamp the sleave ?

there 1 left and 1 right thread for the sleve / turnbuckle to work .

They were both R hand ends and coupler I had to source online somewhere, can't remember the details off hand. It was a temporary fix and long gone now.

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

fwiw i used ruffstuff spring plates front and rear which are slotted for the u bolt and the spring pin locations are in 1 inch increments so i didn't slot it when i moved 1.5" in each direction but the u bolts are centered and the plate is slightly offset. Seems okay to me.

 

[sweetk30]

ruffstuff punches holes 1" each

kirt @ diy4x slots .

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

ruffstuff punches holes 1" each

kirt @ diy4x slots .

Right. As I mentioned the u bolt holes are slotted and the center pin is just a hole in 1 inch increments.

 

[sweetk30]

I thunk you ment he center hole was slotted .

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

I thunk you ment he center hole was slotted .

Oh yeah no worries! damn dirty slots!