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any tips for install rear shackle flip

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knottyrich

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i'm gonna tackle the "big flip" this weekend. you masters of the mechanical arts have any tips that might ease my labors? i was gonna grind off rivets? i also got the ORD zero rate add-a-leaf....do i move axle back 1" ? cause i'm thinking the swinging down will pull it forward a tad?? i'm gonna go thru and do some research on this sight i know a ton of you cats have done it.
thought i'd shoot ya a line. thnx ya'll knottyrich
 
When I did mine, I ground the heads off the rivets with an electric grinder until I could only see the shank and then I beat the shank out with a hammer and punch, but since then I've learned that it's a lot easier to first drill a hole through the rivet with the head still intact and then they'll knock out a lot easier. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but a few guys on this site say that's the way to go. The way I did it took several hours because there are a lot of rivets that need to come out.

As for the zero rate, I don't know if you'll want to move the axle back an inch if you're reusing the stock springs. Someone else will no doubt be able to tell you though. Good luck!

Oh, I do recommend replacing the spring and shackle bushing while you have everything undone. It can be a lot of work to get the rotten old rubber out, but the truck will ride a lot better, especially if you get the greasable bushings. Now might be the time to upgrade to some heavier duty shackles too. I used the ones from DIY that were a littler longer than stock. They came with new bushings, so that was one set I didn't have to worry about replacing.
 
Grinding rivets works pretty good... drilling them works good too.

The last few I did I drilled the head off with a 1/2" bit and then hit them with the air chisel - popped out easy.

If I were you I would move the axle back with the zero rates. The shackle flip will move everything forward a bit.

Oh and just take out the gas tank... You can do the flip with the tank in, but it will make it ALOT easier if it's out of the way. :D
 
I have a way too detailed write-up in my blog, but you can't view it if you aren't a member.

I've had good luck with removing rivets kind of like Fred does it. Yes, the shackle flip will move your axle forward (and tilt up your pinion). A 1" zero rate should get it back in the stock location or maybe a hair further back.

You will need to drop the tank (assuming a K5 or 'Burb) at least a little, so make sure it is mostly empty.
 
thnx a bunch guys! u rock! anyweird thing on removing tank, just go by the chilton manual ideas? went and priced new rear drv shft...$265 for c.v. joint installed and balance and new super duty u-joints..(i call'um "t's) should take care of the vibes and stic that damn slip yoke back into t-case where it should be....i been rolling with only about an inch sticking in!! i know i know...thnx laters, joining here in a bit.....:waytogo:
 
The nuts for the fuel tank straps are under the tailgate (soak them in PB Blaster the night before). You'll probably have to pull off the skid plate (if so equipped) too. If you only drop the tank a little you can leave the lines attached, but that makes it harder to get the flip brackets on.
 
You can also remove the rear bumper, and with an extend-able magnetic pick up tool fish the bolts in from the backside, easier if you have alot of fuel in the tank. Dropping the tank will however give you opportunity to more easily replace the evap hoses(if equipped) that love to leak.;)
 
my air chisel got the rivets out in less than 10 minutes no drilling just went to town on them. use a c clamp to hold the bracket on the frame while you put the bolts in. ,ales it easier to get the bolts in and threaded when you dont have to hold the bracket up with one hand.
 
Drop the tank and use torches to cut the rivets off. The hardest part is dropping the tank. Just watch out for the tailight wires. It's also a good time to clean up the frame rails and paint them.
 
How ever you chose to get the rivets out, try to do a clean job of removing them. Lots of guys scare the hell out of the frame. Try like hell NOT the grind into the frame with a grinder or cut off wheel. It will look like a much more quality job if the frame does not have all kinds of grind marks on it. Best to grind on the factory bracked side and pop the rivets inboard. So if you do grind and hit the bracket, doesn't matter cause it's coming off anyways.

I have an 7.5hp 80 gal single stage air compressor. I have a pretty good quailty RODAC air chisel. Mine will in no way shape or form shear thru a complete rivet. I would sure like to see how others are doing this. I keep my shearing chisel sharp too. Not saying guys don't but god damn, what the hell kind of chisel are you using? My compressor is always turned all the way up to 125 PSI. I run all my air tools at max PSI and my chisel just wont do it.

The way I remove a rivet is to use a cut off wheel in a air die grinder and grind an "X" in the head of the rivet down just shy of hitting the frame, If I do it on the bracket side I will grind into the bracket just a little to be completely thru the head height. Then I air chisel the four little pie shaped pieces off, they pop right off pretty easy. Then I smooth out the cut off area with a right angle air grinder. Then I stake the rivet on center, then drill with a 1/8 in cobalt drill deep enough to go past the other side of the frame by a decent amount but not all the way thru the rivet. The I drill with a 1/4 drill to the same depth, then a drill just smaller then the hole diameter of the rivet. This "Relieve's" the pressure of the rivet. Take a punch and pop it outwith a ball peen hammer. One down, many more rivets to go. It's a process.
 
I have a plasma cutter now that pretty much turns the rivets into liquid. Good investment. But before I got it, I did the project your doing now. I drilled small holes with a carbide bit, took one of the thin cutting wheels and made X shapes, then smacked the brackets off with a BFG. I also now wear a sweatshirt with a hoddie over my head and a full faceshield. I've been to the ER 6 times for metal in my eyes.
 
rdn2blazer said:
How ever you chose to get the rivets out, try to do a clean job of removing them. Lots of guys scare the hell out of the frame. Try like hell NOT the grind into the frame with a grinder or cut off wheel. It will look like a much more quality job if the frame does not have all kinds of grind marks on it. Best to grind on the factory bracked side and pop the rivets inboard. So if you do grind and hit the bracket, doesn't matter cause it's coming off anyways.

I have an 7.5hp 80 gal single stage air compressor. I have a pretty good quailty RODAC air chisel. Mine will in no way shape or form shear thru a complete rivet. I would sure like to see how others are doing this. I keep my shearing chisel sharp too. Not saying guys don't but god damn, what the hell kind of chisel are you using? My compressor is always turned all the way up to 125 PSI. I run all my air tools at max PSI and my chisel just wont do it.

The way I remove a rivet is to use a cut off wheel in a air die grinder and grind an "X" in the head of the rivet down just shy of hitting the frame, If I do it on the bracket side I will grind into the bracket just a little to be completely thru the head height. Then I air chisel the four little pie shaped pieces off, they pop right off pretty easy. Then I smooth out the cut off area with a right angle air grinder. Then I stake the rivet on center, then drill with a 1/8 in cobalt drill deep enough to go past the other side of the frame by a decent amount but not all the way thru the rivet. The I drill with a 1/4 drill to the same depth, then a drill just smaller then the hole diameter of the rivet. This "Relieve's" the pressure of the rivet. Take a punch and pop it outwith a ball peen hammer. One down, many more rivets to go. It's a process.
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mac tools long barrel air hammer with 1/2 flat chisel. my compressor is a 175psi i run air tools full psi typically. i use it on the bracket side and it pops the heads right off, then pop bracket off and knock remaing rivet parts out with a ball pein.
 
kevin400ex said:
mac tools long barrel air hammer with 1/2 flat chisel. my compressor is a 175psi i run air tools full psi typically. i use it on the bracket side and it pops the heads right off, then pop bracket off and knock remaing rivet parts out with a ball pein.
Click to expand...


I might have to look into a gun that will do it that fast. My next compressor will be a 175 psi duel stage unit.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Slow learner huh? :D

Rene
Click to expand...

Not really. I cut a lot of metal and sometimes when I'm laying on my back underneath something. 3 out of 6 of those times I was wearing safety glasses. Never been to the ER with metal that has been projected into my eyes, just fallen in because I was covered with chips and got wedged the first time my eyes blinked. I now wear a full face shield and don't care if I look like a dork anymore.
 
Better to look like a dork, than not be able to see whether you look like a dork or not. :deal:
 
BGKYK5 said:
You will need to drop the tank (assuming a K5 or 'Burb) at least a little, so make sure it is mostly empty.
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I have installed an ORD flip on my 89 k5, didn't drop the tank and I recently installed a DIY flip on my 86 M1009,, also didnt drop the tank. The ORD was pretty tricky but the DIY shackle flip was a piece of cake without dropping the tank
 
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