What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Anybody familar with Cummins Diesels?

thebird00

thebird00

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Posts
995
Reaction score
0
Location
Camden, NC
Ultimately I want an 87 K30 with a cummins in it. I'm looking for info on a cummins build. Does anybody have any good resources for such things as what year models produce the most power and what adds-ons such as turbos, intakes, and injectors work the best.

Anything to help me get started would be much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
4btswaps.com has lots of good info. Also there is a cummins conversion thread in the diesel forum
 
I'm not so much looking for conversion info right now, but more info on the engine itself.
 
I think you're asking for a little too much. There is so much out there for Cummins trucks that it's not funny, so you're going to have to narrow the scope of your questions. :D

I went with an '89 engine because it has no computers, and also becaue the older engines seem to get better mileage than the newer ones. . From there, I decided on a smaller turbo housing, what to do with the VE pump, etc etc.

The engine I'm installing got dyno'd w/252hp/610ft.lbs. That's plenty for a tow rig. Test driving it in the rig it came out of revealed that it was plenty of power.... torque is king.

anyway, decide what you want it to do, search for the engine accordingly.
 
you want a '94-'98 12v with a P7100 pump (the inline one) superior to the VE rotary. ans IMO more reliable than the '98.5-'02 24v VP44 basic electronic controlled mechanical pump. '03-'07 common rail engine bosch CP3 high pressure pump with electronic injectors. much more sophisticated electronic control. can have multiple injection events every power stroke ( ie pilot injection) thats why they are so much quieter when running at idle. '07+ 6.7L cummins. heavy emmission controls. generally '03 and up are not cost effective swaps. but if you have a wrecked donor truck then go for it. shoot for a p-pumped 12v though '94- early '98 dodges.

I won't recommend on hotrodding it because there is anything that you want availible for them. I put down 606rwhp with my '98.5 24v no cam cam change fuel only. 12v you want to look at a fuel plate or delivery valves. governor spring upgrade. with that you'll make enough power to hurt your stock auto or smoke your stock clutch. so consider guages, clutch/ auto upgrades mandatory and high on the list. if you want to play the power game.
 
If I went with the 12V and stuff like bigger injectors and compound turbos, would I need to upgrade the bottom end any. After looking at some other sites today, I think the 12V may be easier to swap.

I'm not looking to go to the extreme but I wouldn't mind 1000 ft/lb of torque. I'd just like to have better numbers than the new diesels with programmers.

This would be a daily driver and possible see some light towing.
 
Agree on the 12V. It also only requires one 12volt source to the fuel solenoid shutoff switch so it is extremely easy to wire. The 12V 6BT weighs around 1100lbs (exact weights seem to vary a little). Unless you go nuts with it you won't have to beef up the bottom end as everything is already beefy as hell. It is my personal opinion that the Cummins B-Series is one of the best designed engines of the modern time, and I can't wait to throw one in a Burb. :bow:
 
Oh, and if you have some free time, check out this site - http://devilscastle.net/. It is a guy in Finland who stuffed a 12V into a 2WD Burb. There are lots of pictures and it shows how it fits into the engine compartment of this era truck. But this guy went nuts with it and RRREEEALLLYYY paid attention to all the details.
 
thebird00 said:
If I went with the 12V and stuff like bigger injectors and compound turbos, would I need to upgrade the bottom end any. After looking at some other sites today, I think the 12V may be easier to swap.

I'm not looking to go to the extreme but I wouldn't mind 1000 ft/lb of torque. I'd just like to have better numbers than the new diesels with programmers.

This would be a daily driver and possible see some light towing.
Click to expand...

The bottom end of the 6bt will handle more power that the rest of your truck would - it will handle 1000hp :eek1:
 
thats the truth! there was a local guy who put a jazz up 12v in a chevy pickup, with rockwells, 49" iroks, and within 2months of hitting the trails, he ripped the frame in half. you don't really need twin turbos. IMO for what it sounds like you'll be doing. you can make fairly handily 350-375 hp with the stock turbo. one turbo upgrade and you'll be into 450-500rwhp with supporting fuel. IMHO as one whos had twins and singles on my cummins. I would suggest stay with a good single, over the hassle of twins. sure i couls make 50-80psi depending on fueling, but honestly i prefered the single. as long as its sized right for your setup, it will be more than adequite. theres a guy from BC that comes to our get togethers and dyno days that made 1056rwhp with his '03 on a single turbo with 2 stages of nitrous and a multitue of otherupgrades mind you, but still only 1 turbo.
 
Good information, fellas! I'm swapping in a Cummins 6bt when the opportunity arrives.

Subscribing....
 
Ive been wanting to put one on my CC forever. Crewcab59 Has a sweet CC with a cummins in it. I believe he makes parts to swap them in as well.
 
thebird00 said:
I saw this on the site the other day. $400 doesn't seem like a bad price to avoid the headache of fabbing that piece on your own.
Click to expand...


Where are you guys seeing the $400 price? I don't see it on their website...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom